wolf66

"Great! All we need now is to figure how to get rid of the carbon cannister without (too much) fumes." I got rid of mine, i just ran the vent line over near the air-intake so it sucks in the fumes there.

Have to push it a little firmer then before so i suspect it is hitting but not enough to stop it from closing properly.

naw, i just haven't drilled the other bolt hole where i want it, it will have 2 bolts though

So if A is well bolted down (i have spacers under C) and B is a fairly stiff/thick bar and D has no play (ie close tolerances around the bolt) and is real tight, where would most of the flex happen?

its no big deal, you just have to buy FI fuel hose at $5 a foot and replace it just like it looks, make sure you have FI hose clamps too, not regular ones.

well if you take the bumper off there is a screw there to release the pressure, mine was all rusted so i just drilled through it.

dang motor, always in the way...

Well i cranked down on all the nuts, its pretty tight and seems to be fairly rigid, bet its worth all of $23!

Well it was this or take em off....and the shocks action won't do diddly in a high speed rear ending, it was only in the Fed 5 mph crash test that it was useful, and i don't back into stuff.

Also got my strut cross bar on, ebay about $23 delv, its for a honda civic

.......on my '77, think it looks alot better and still gives more protection then no bumper.

Older engines w/ crud built up in them are not good canidates for Snyth oil, it is VERY detergent and will knock all that crud off, maybe plugging a oil galley. (unless it has always had Snyth or was just rebuilt and is clean inside) 10/30w is good though. The manual tranny's take a GL-4 gear oil, NOT a GL-5 which is designed for rear ends. (you will need some GL-5 for the rear end though..)

Yeah the post was more for people who want a cheap way to lower their car by changing tires sizes.

Yeah but the Z was the cheapest by thousands of dollars and still spanks em. What was Porshe thinking putting out a sub 100 Hp car anyway? Was the 914-6 avail that year and what did it cost?

I found this site helpful on how to when i just painted mine http://www.scottgrundfor.com/ideas/paint2.html also this one: http://www.gmtips.com/3rd-degree/dox/tips/paint/paint.htm

Since i just put 235/60/14's on the back i better add them: 25.1"x9.5" 235/60/14

TIRE SIZE 23.3"x7.6" 195/60/14 23.7"x8" 205/60/14 24.1"x7.8" 195/65/14 24.1"x8.7" 215/60/14 24.6"x9" 225/60/14 24.8"x7.8" 195/70/14 (Stock size on '77 280z) 25.4"x8.2" 205/70/14 (remember a tire which is 1" shorter will only drop the car 1/2")

They didn't say it was a Calif model so i would guess not.

3.

The Z looks to be a late model '76 with the heavy bumpers, + the test car had AC. (ie a little slower then one without the bumpers and or AC) Only the 924 was a '77 model they said.

July 1976 Issue Road & Track Magazine Road test 280z Vs Porsche 924 Vs Alfa Romeo Alfetta GT

Long story/short-bought 77-280z FI 5 sp that sat in barn for 7 years- fired up and ran ok when i got her home (changed all tune up items incld draing fuel tank, bought new injectors/injector wires and plug wires etc) rev to redine fine, (about a month ago) but now that i am ready to tag/drive (body work done for now) she starts and idles fine, revs to 2-3000rpm great but above 3000rpm the motor acts like the fuel supply or electrical is getting turned off every second, sounds like i am reving her up then letting off in a fast way, vroom, vroom, vroom etc but i am holding the pedal steady. Kinda like it drops about 3 cylinders above 2,500/3,000 Things i have done since this started: changed plugs, distrb. cap/rotor, and fuel filter under hood. unhooked/hooked up dist. vacume advance, checked timing (hard to say has 2 marks that show up on flywheel under timing light, think its set around 13 degrees as i didn't think the vacume adv works) replaced coil. Bad: Fuel regulator thingy? Fuel pump? Dist.? Possible other causes....was changing dash temp guage thermostat two days ago(right before this started), had distrb. cap off to get the plugs wires out of the way...when i removed the water inlet housing from the motor some anti-freeze poured out (d'oh forgot to lower water level in radiator) and i believe some went in the open distrb. (cap had some splashed about the inside when i removed cap next day.) I left the cap off all night and put on a new cap and rotor but i worry anti-freeze don't dry so well.....would that make it idle nice down low but cut out up top? The Suncoast Zcar Club is having their annual pinic Sunday!!!! MUST ATTEND.....sigh Maybe it was long story/long.. Antony St pete Fl '77 280z 5sp