fatones

I scored mine for $350 in a junkyard. The body was in great condition only dent was in the pass side dogleg. That has already been cut out and replaced from my donor car. Since I've brought it home last Thanksgiving I have put almost 5000 into suspension, sandblasting, paint, tools and a 82 L28 Turbo engine. I still have about three thousand dollars worth of parts to get to make it driveable again. Hopefully I will at least be able to drive it around the block in a few weeks. Very frustrating investing all that money into something that you've never driven.

I need to use the 280 oil pan cause it has the oil drain connection from the turbo. Only thing left is the L24 engine. Found someone with a 280 and got rid of the AC stuff and dash.

Wish I had that when I chose the paint for my car. Nice

I have the Intake. The carbs were gone when I got the car.

Well I've posted this stuff in a few places still nobody wants it. I need the space and you can have it for free. I was only wanting like 10 bucks a piece for the stuff anyway. The core charge is worth more! If nobody can use it I guess I'm going to throw this stuff away. Let me know and it's yours.

I have a L24 engine that I pulled from my project car that is not needed. It has an E88 head on it with out the SUs. Don't know the condition of it, but you can have it for dirt cheap. Also I have 280 ZX a/c parts for sale. Compreesor, lines, condersor coil. Also need to get rid of oil cooler. Make me an offer need to sell to fund the turbo project. Thanks

I just finished removing the undercoating on my 240. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. First I used a torch and a two inch scraper to get through the undercoating. Then I bought a suction blaster made by campbell hausefield to bring it down to bare metal. For media I just used a five gallon bucket filed with 30 grit silica from home depot. Five bucks for a 100 pound bag. It only cost me about 80 bucks for the job. I also used a quality respirator since the dust is supposed to be very bad for you. Looks pretty good when you put the POR-15 back on to seal it. Fatones

Thanks 2many for the confirmation. I wanted to make sure that they didn't have to be a certain way before I started to get rough with the suspension components. From what I've been reading the urethane kit can be a beast to install. Laters Fatones

Sorry put this in the wrong place. Was supposed to go to the suspension thread.:stupid: I'm going to bed now! have a good one.

Hi everyone, This is a really stupid question that I have. Which way do the control arms go on the car? I stripped my Z to the shell and am now in the process of sand blasting, painting, and finally putting everything back on. While I was installing the new urethane bushings I noticed that the control arms had a swept back look to them. So I looked on my parts car and it looked like they sweep back to the rear of the car. So I installed the control arms and bolted the strut/spring assembly to the frame. The problem I run into is the tension rod looks like it doesn't line up correctly with the control arm. So I was just wondering if I have the control arms installed backwards? Yes I checked the bushings and the thicker one is on the rear side. Also I checked the MSA book and it seems that they have the left/right listed as different part numbers. So am I totally goofy for noticing this or what? Thanks for your input! Fatones

Zmefly is correct. If you have a 3 inch Mandrel bent exhaust it will help the turbo spool up faster since there will be less back pressure. When you boost your engine you have to take on a whole new concept for making power. If I were going to a turbo engine in the future, I'd save my money for the engine swap and all the goodies. Otherwise you'd be throwing your money at something that wouldn't help you out later on. Laters Fatones

I just had my whole car done by a guy that uses plastic media and glass beads. The plastic media was used for the outer skin and thinner metal since the platic is less prone to warping the metal. Also another thing he told me was the plastic media removed undercoating much better than the glass beads. I thought he was crazy until he demonstrated this in his shop. The glass beads seemed to deflect off of the rubber while the plastic penetrated and took it right off. For the areas like the door jams and firewall he used the glass beads to etch the metal. Then all I had to do was wipe the surface down and shoot it with DP90LF epoxy primer. For the skin I just used my DA with 80 grit to get the primer to stick. I am hooked on sand blasting, it's so much easier! Fatones

I just ordered a suspension kit from TEP a couple of weeks ago. Everything worked out great. They definately have some nice performance upgrades. The only dissapointing thing was the package didn't arrive soon enough. All was forgotten the day UPS finally arrived! The engine overhaul kit they offer is definately a great setup. Get that kit with the proper machine work and you'll be smokin. I was going to go that route before I got a great deal on a 82 turbo. Good luck

A couple of weeks ago I ran across a 280ZX Turbo that had just arrived at the local junkyard. The owner said that I could take the car home and remove the engine with all the accessories. So now I have a condenser coil, AC compressor, all of the lines and the collector that I'll never use. I checked the price of a new evaporator core and now i really regret not taking that too. When I disconnected the AC lines it hissed for a good 15 minutes which leads me to belive that it was full of freon. Anyway if anyone is interested you can have the whole system for 175 plus whatever the shipping is. If anyone is interested shoot me an email at fahtones@yahoo.com. Thanks Fatones

Okay here it is for 1500. Just come and get the thing. Nobody has even made an offer on it. It's not a bad car guys! I really need to get this thing out of my way. Don't be shy just come and get it.

I was reading about pros and cons of forged pistons, and it said that to run a forged piston you must allow for the expansion of the piston as the engine warms up to operating temperature. So this means a larger piston to cylinder clearance that initially will wear on the cylinder more since it will take a little while for operating tolerences to expand to normal. Does anybody know the life expectancy of a forged piston engine versus a cast piston engine? I'm sure it will be less, but I've never heard exactly what to expect. Also anyone ever see hypereutic pistons for a Z? Thanks Fatones

I ordered the kit from TEP yesterday, and they said it should be here next week. If it's any good or not only time will tell. I still have to build the rest of the car before I finally get to drive it. Yeah as far as upgrades to a street car this is about all the upgrading that I'll do. I'll save the camber plates and coil overs for the full out race cars. All of that adjustment isn't going to get me to work any quicker. After I put it all together I'll post a review on how it fit together. Hopefully I don't have the horror story of "I had to modify the springs to get them to fit". Thanks everyone for your replies. Fatones

Come and get it for 2000 OBO. And you can still have the four speed flywheel and clutch. What a great deal!!!!!!!!!

Hi Frank, No this kit is listed as a street suspension upgrade. It includes lowering springs, Tokico inserts, urethane bushings and the thick sway bars. I've been reading the forum, and nobody has mentioned anything about tep. I think I'm going to give it a try and see how everything turns out. Thanks for your input, TIM

Has anyone ever heard of a company called Top end performance out in Hollywood? They offer a complete suspension kit for under a grand that includes: springs, bushings, swaybars and the strut inserts. They said that it drastically improves handling over stock, but if it's junk I would prefer to go elsewhere to get my suspension components. So if anyone has any comments good or bad about them please give me a heads up on your experience with TEP. Thanks TIM http://www.racetep.com/

Yeah everywhere that I've seen so far has been totally solid. Here is a pic of the floorpan. The nasty color that's there is the original paint that hasn't been removed yet. It was originally a nasty pale yellow. The car looks like it's been in the southwest all of it's life. The price I'm asking is best offer of $2300. I guess it all depends on the market right now, so we'll see how it goes. Gary if you wanted to pick it up you could probably get it with a UHaul dolley. I just pulled a 72 Z 1600 miles with my 4wd Tacoma. They're not very heavy something like 2300lbs. Also the cost for a one way rental was $250 with insurance, and they gave me seven days to do it.

Here's a picture. Email me for more or if you have a question. Thanks

I have a 71 240z for sale. It has A/C, E31, Automatic and most of the original pieces are all there. It's been repainted red, but the clear coat is peeling on top of the car. There are minor dings otherwise the body is straight. All of the usual rusted areas are solid as far as I can tell. It starts and runs no problem. The tranny slipping is the only thing keeping the car from being driveable. I do have an extra four speed and a few parts to convert it to manual if you would like. Bumpers have been used as they are dinged from parking lot error. This would make a great restoration car for somebody that needs a new project. If you're interested make me an offer. Email me at fahtones@yahoo.com if you have any questions. Thanks P.S. I have only one pic now, but can get others if needed.