Jimbeaux

I'm trying to locate the individual male and female pins found in the connectors throughout the electrical harnesses in my 78 280. I believe the manufacturer may be Molex. I know there are insertion/removal tools and various sizes of these pins. Has anyone found a source for these items? Perhaps a listing of the different sizes and locations? The connectors I'm concerned with are under the dash and a few of these pins have corroded and broken but the plastic connector housing and wiring is in fine shape. It would be so easy to remove the bad pins, cut and recrimp new ones on have a new connector. Any help would be appreciated, I'll keep researching and if I learn anything I'll certainly pass it on.

Well it finally appears to be fixed. I worked on it Monday and it still had the same electrical problems described above. So I thought I'd try another new coil only I went with the MSD Blaster II instead of the Accel Super Stock. Ta da! It runs great. As the problem existed before I upgraded the ignition in hindsight my thoughts are that my original coil was bad and the new Accel is either bad or doesn't work with the GM HEI retrofit. Thanks for help and I hope this may help someone else someday.

I'm going to triple check everything again. Your point on the type of coil might help. The instructions I used for the HEI retrofit say use a MSD Blaster II and does not work with all coils. I'm using a Accel Super Stock which I believe to be the equivalent 12v coil, I certainly could be wrong. (12v coil no ballast used) That lingering issue though....the problem existed before the retrofit. Oh well as you said maybe some more insight will follow, thanks for your help. It's Sunday night Father's Day, I'm closing the hood and turning off the PC then firing up the grill and cracking a cold brew!

Wow, thanks for the quick response. To help clarify this is a link to the mod I did to the ignition http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/ go to Z tech page then GM HEI RETROFIT. I replaced the distributor with one I rebuilt (new pick up coil, good advance plate, working vacuum pull, new rotor, cap), new Accel coil and new GM ignition module. The real kicker is the problem existed before the HEI retrofit. Your point about where the aftermarket fan is pulling power from is interesting. It's worked for 6 years but could something be "getting tired" that all of a sudden it's drawing too much? Can the alternator affect the ignition system? As far as vaporlock, I'm familar with those symptoms and this is without a doubt electrical. Picture this, I start the car cold and just sitting in the driveway it runs great I keep my foot on the throttle to maintain about 1500 RPM. The tach stays perfectly steady, then the temp reaches about 1/8 of the way across the gauge (150 degs? or so?) and the tach needle starts wavering ever so slightly. The temp rises a little more (1/4 of the way 170?) and the needle starts bouncing up and down 500 RPM or so, the gauge reachs 1/3 of the way across (180 degs? this is where it always runs unless in traffic in July) the tach imeediately drops to zero, then back to 1500, then back to zero and back to 1500. This is immediate, not a slow drop I mean 1500 then BOOM zero, then BOOM 1500 again. It really acts like a bad pickup coil or module but the problem existed with the new points and condensor prior to this conversion. I think that's what baffles me the most. I wish I could post a mpeg so you could see and hear the problem. HHmmmm..... Thanks again, Jim

Hey Z folks, I'm having an electrical problem with my '72 240. Here's a brief history of the car, the problem, and the attempted troubleshooting. The car: 1972 240, all stock except aftermarket AC, exhaust, radio. I'm second owner and added the air and radio upon purchase 7 years ago. AC professionally installed by custom shop that specializes in AC add-ons to classics, street rods, etc. Radio by me, very clean, careful install. Car has been fine for 6 years with all items working well until 4 months ago. The symptoms: Cars runs GREAT until temperature reaches approximately 180 degs. At this point cars starts skipping, stumbling and the tach needle wavers +/- 1000 RPM. A few more degrees up to operating temperature and the tach goes wild, 2000 RPM swings, complete drop to nothing, but comes right back. Car dies, then runs, then dies, then runs. Idling at operating temperature it acts like this, 900 RPMS fine for 5 seconds, tach drops, car practically stalls 2 seconds, then back to 900 RPM for 5 seconds, repeat. It is very regular and cyclic. The only thing I've found is if I turn the fan switch on it dies immediately (only when at full operating temparature). The troubleshooting steps: 1.) Complete tune, plugs, points, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, no change (didn't expect it). 2.) Cleaned all electrical connectors I could get my hands on with contact cleaner and small file. Cleaned grounds, alternator, voltage regulator, coil, ballast, ignition switch etc., no change. 3.) Changed to HEI per Kyle Hagemann's GM conversion write up only used Accel instead of MSD, the only changes are a noticeable improvement in power and response UNTIL AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE then problem persists. 4. ) Replaced Voltage regulator, same problem, Replaced Ignition switch, same problem, replaced Temp sending unit same problem. This problem is driving me nuts. I'm 100% sure it's electrical. Fuse box is in good shape, everything electrical works on the car. Could it be something to do with a relay for the electric cooling fan installed? Is there something I'm over looking? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. Jim B. Houston, TX

Has anyone bought or used the plating kits from Eastwood or Caswell? I want to replate all my hardware, hydraulic line clamps, bolts, brackets, etc. I see Mike G has painted (or powder coat?) some of the brackets black. But some of the hardware looks new or plated. I want to get as close to the original finish as possible, not chrome. Any suggestions?