Alfadog

Well, originally I wasn't going to be able to attend as I was going to be in Melbourne, but plans have changed and I'm not moving until later on. So I will be there with bells on (hopefully). We are expecting some interstate visitors actually. Yeah I think I will be bringing a camera, but just means less looking at the cars myself!!

For once, we have a good event coming up in Queensland! WHEN: Sunday the 1st October 2006 WHERE: Bald Hills Flats Pine River Park, Strathpine, Brisbane, Queensland. WHY: Dear Japanese Motoring enthusiast, The Inaugural Classic Japanese Show and Shine is now open for entries, For more than 50 years the Japanese automobile industry have designed and built motor vehicles that have graced our roads and had a huge effect on the Australian economy and our every day lifestyle. The Japanese motor vehicles have also had a huge impact on the automobile industries of the world. The car of the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s and even right up to the present day have been in the forefront of design, innovation and technology. Brisbane has never had a car display dedicated solely to these Classic Japanese Cars and on the 1st of October 2006 at the Bald Hills Flats at the Pine River Park at Strathpine we will see the Inaugural Classic Japanese Show and Shine presented by the Z Car Club of Queensland Inc. Whilst entry is open to all Japanese motor vehicles, the attention is naturally being focused on, Classic Japanese cars and Japanese cars not seen on our roads in a everyday situation. Numbers will be restricted so please send in your entry form in as soon as possible. The Z Car Club of Queensland Inc.’s nominated Charity is Angel Flight Australia which co-ordinate financially needy patients and there carers to fly free of charge to medical facilities anywhere in Australia. This charity will be the major beneficiary of the Show and Shine. A large area at the Bald Hills Flats will be used for the car display entry to the Pine River Park is at the intersection of Gympie Road and Kremzow Road UBD Map 109 Ref B2 This is a static display and all vehicles must be parked in the grounds by no later than 9.00am. And vehicles will be expected to stay until 2.00pm. Entrants will be available to enter the grounds from 7.30am. Entries will close last mail on the 15th of September 2006 and successful entries will be notified by mail prior to the event, It will not be possible to enter on the day so all entries must be sent in by the above date. Unsuccessful entries will have their cheques returned to them. Its time to get your club or you family or friends together and bring out those beauties which hide beneath the covers out for the day. Food and drink stalls will be on hand for entrants and public alike but please feel free to bring a picnic if you wish. It is hoped that this event will grow in coming years and more and more cars will be displayed. The Z Car Club Queensland Inc. is a chapter of the Marque Sport Car Club of Queensland. The Z Car Club of Queensland Inc Promotes Safe Responsible Driving and Expects Safe Responsible Driving I am just trying to spread the word! If you own a unique Japanese car and you'd like to enter please just send me a PM or email and I will send you the entry form. This should be good!!!

That seems pretty steep to me. Weren't Dashboard Restorations in Australia charging about half that???

That was the whole point. The original topic was about tinting, and it went offtopic talking about how best to protect the interior of your car from sunlight when the subject of louvres came up. So why not get a 1953 Prototype VW "Beetle" that didn't even have a rear window - NOT like every other Beetle at all. And if you want to get technical, louvres actually refers to a slatted opening, so yes, that Beetle does have louvres. BTW "stinking" is a common English adjective used in sarcasm, meaning "To be of an extremely low or bad quality", e.g. This job stinks.

Louvres? We don't need no stinkin' louvres!

Good idea Miles, I will try that out first before I start to get metal rings cut out and attached to the hub...I'm really happy with this wheel, I love it, thank you again! Mustadd240K, no, that's a Japanese dash panel from a 2000GTX-E. They came from factory in brushed aluminium, after the GT-R was discontinued. The later 240K's also got these two warning lights (Charge and Exhaust Temperature I think). My original dash panel did not have these lights.

Disconnect your battery first too When you are pulling the horn pad off, you have to push it down and then twist anti-clockwise. It will come off easily. My wheel came off reasonably easily which was a surprise. I was just amazed at the cleanliness of everything there... all the components looked brand new. I almost felt bad taking it all apart... And yeah, let's see your car!!! BTW Here are some pictures of the wheel installed (haven't got the horn working yet, but I have a plan).

Powdercoated? I thought they were painted? RS Watanabe do make their wheels in magnesium as well, so there is more confusion to add to the mix

This post is just to allow me to upload some more pictures :squareeye

Thanks Jim, I would like to expand on that a bit if I may. There are four kinds of tail lights for the C110. 1. Export specification "240K" lights (note that the outer lights are different to domestic lights as well as the inners) 2. Domestic "Skyline" lights - ie the "hotplates" 3. Short wheel base sedan "Skyline" lights. 4. Van "Skyline" lights. Now as has been mentioned, there are also a combination of ways these lights were shown on cars. 1. Chromed plastic outer ring surrounds - for all Hardtop C110 models except GT-R. 2. Plain chromed plastic outer ring surrounds - for GT-R only. The light units themselves are the same, and these rings screw on. The beaver panels are different for the sedan and hardtop models to allow for this extra ring. As Tom found out, they are NOT interchangeable without modification. All GC110 Hardtop models had a small stainless steel trim piece around the hole on the beaver panel, around the inner light. Sedans had this same trim on all four holes, and the GT-R had no trim. Some more pictures for reference: 240K Sedan (note no chrome rings on outer lights) Skyline Sedan Skyline GT-R (plain note chrome ring, with "Skyline" tail lights and no stainless steel trim on inner light) Comparison picture of 240K lights and Skyline lights. Also note that some export markets did get the "Skyline" lights...

Welcome Nikkid! Do you own a 240K? We'd love to see pictures, regardless of its condition. :classic: The C110 Skyline is an interesting beast. To my knowledge, two were made in racing spec by Nissan. These are commonly referred to as the "Image Cars". Image, because they were never entered into any race! The reason for this was the oil crisis of the 70s. Car racing in general suffered... Anyway, I was talking with Jim about this and he found some interesting information. I hope he doesn't mind (Hi Jim!) me regurgitating this here: This is for Bathurst, 1974. So there you have it. 240K's aren't so granny-spec afterall. That's second in its class, and seventh outright!

Hey Razor, yeah that is what I am planning on doing. Unfortunately the price for a cutting circle the size I need is about $30, ouch! The smaller ones are a lot cheaper but apparently if you go this large, it's a professional tool. Might try to get someone to cut some spacers/washers for me.

Hi Mike, I believe the "H" was used to signify the larger capacity engine, not for export models. e.g. HS30 was used for the home-market "Nissan Fairlady 240Z". HS130 I think means it is the Fairlady 280Z as described (S130 with L28 engine), rather than the Fairlady Z (S130 with L20).

Hey Kent, don't be too worried, I would expect just to polish the rims probably $40-$50 per wheel. Mine were $400 to paint the centres and polish the lips. And I agree in regards to polishing (which is why I had it done I suppose ). It depends on the colour a lot, but with C110's I think generally the polished lip is good. They look a bit weird without it IMO. Though without flares, I'd definitely have all gunmetal. Best of luck sorting out the little problem!

PHEW! I thought my first may have been worse It's good fun though Good trip doown memory lane ! It sure has been a while ... Thanks

Excellent mustadd!! Good to see you posting here too That is the one. And it is indeed not touching. I fiddled with it just then and yeah, there is a problem. I either have to find some metal rings to tack onto the existing one on the back of the hub, or somehow extend that little contact out so it touches. I'd rather modify the hub than the car, but finding rings the same size might be difficult. Unless someone has another (brighter) idea P.S. I didn't get your PM Adrian

Pffft! Pictures first!

Yeah, Nardi seem to be more popular/common in the U.S. But I didn't really want to try eBay as I'd prefer to know it would work, so I went to a shop that deals in performance parts owned by my father's friend. OK so that plan didn't really pan out..... Next time I'd just buy a Nardi hub and be done with it. But I have spent good money on this so I am determined to get it working. Here are some pics :nervous:

Clifton Springs is near Geelong, Victoria. It would certainly be unique......!!! I am watching it.

Hi guys! Thanks for your comments! Miles, that explanation makes it sound so easy! As it turns out not all hub adaptor kits are equal. It is such a long story... Basically the horn has nothing to clip onto. The little ring that came with the boss is too small... ok, so I bought an angle grinder and split it into three parts. Then drilled out the holes a little further so that the three parts would sit further away, effectively widening the circle. This worked a treat! After a bit of fiddling and a lot of trial-and-error, I got it down to size. Unfortunately the part that the pins clip over were too deep, so I had to grind that off a bit too. BUT! Eventually I got the centre parts on. And it looks good!!! But, no horn. The hub adaptor came with one wire from the hub - that I plugged in to the single spade on the back of the horn button. The hub adaptor kit came with a centre horn button with two spades on the back, and a couple of wires. I tried running some wire from the hub to the car body just to see if I could get it working that way, and it didn't either. Checked battery, and horns and they were all plugged in... Any idea?

Nah, let's just all imagine that the car was a real bomb, rusted to hell, interior all ripped up and cracked, not a straight panel on the thing... and ran on 3 cylinders. Now I can sleep tonight

Talk about adding salt to a wound Craig!!!!! What a pity Tom... It's a dog eat dog world! Craig is right, next time you've just got to be more aggressive. Offer more than they are asking if you need to. I bought my parts car that way. It was sold when I rang up (9:30am) to a guy who was driving up from Toowoomba. I rang Peter (440K) to say thank you for giving me the heads up anyway, and he suggested I offered him more money! So I rang the guy back, offered him $200 more, and he took it. Probably not the most polite thing to do to the other guy. But since when did ethics and 2nd hand car sales associate with each other? Keep looking, there will be more

So I finally got my hands on the wheel I had been looking for for a while now (a Nardi!) thanks to our "man in Japan", Miles. Thank you so much to him!! I bought a hub adaptor kit, Autotechnica, for Nissan. The indicator cancel pins were too far out though. Very odd. Since I bought it from a shop owned by my dad's friend, he modified it for me! Very nice of him. So now the indicators cancel! Awesome. So I fitted it today, but I am left confused about how to fit the centre horn button and ring. Firstly, I plugged the wire from the Boss to the single spade on the back of the horn button, but it doesn't work. I'm no electrician, so I've probably done something obviously wrong there. But my main problem is that there doesn't seem to be a way to secure the horn button onto the wheel?! Am I missing some kind of vital part? There was a ring that fits behind or in front of the wheel, the nuts securing it, which the button can kind of wedge itself too - but the result is the button sticks out way too far. So I'm left wondering, why can't anything just work the way it is supposed to? Getting sick of this. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?:dead:

Wow, he certainly likes his imports doesn't he! A beautiful car. A very very nice GT-R replica it looks like! And by the way Mikey, since it's a four door it's technically a "GC10" :classic: Thanks for posting the pics!!

Good point, but yes. They even went so far as to make the pin holes for the "Skyline" badge the same as the "Datsun" one. This is the reason why if you look closely at the "Datsun" badge you will notice weird blobs on the 'D' and the 'n'!