yukonharry

Welcome to a pretty neat forum. There is a ton of info in the archives. Some nights when I'm bored, I just play around and search. I bookmark anything that may interest me or others and make hard copys for my Z repair book.

To give even more validity to what Unkle is saying, check out this link http://web.newsguy.com/glamke/RekeyZlock.pdf I have it posted on our web site tech tips. I followed the directions to the letter and had no problem. Good luck. Just don't get frustrated and start ripping...

I have a friend that collects broken ones. He uses parts and pieces to make good ones for his Z cars. He swears by POR 15. I've seen a repair job he has done and it looks almost real. Then again, it's good enough for him as it's one of his daily drivers. Personally, I'd keep a close eye on ebay. I recently picked up a very good 260 console for my 280 for 30 bux. I wanted the slot for the choke cable as I'm running a carb on mine.

Ditto on the Redline.

Keep the round tops, and for a cheap cam, try the 260 stock cam. check the numbers, it's a tad bit hotter.

gator, hit ebay and score a console out of a 260. I got a real nice one for 35 bux. I put one in my 77 and used half of the 240/260 choke setup for my Holley 4bbl. It looks sweet and works great.

A club member friend just had a complete set put on his 77. He just went to the local muffler shop and had them do the work. However, it really run crappy. He took it back and they found a vacume leak. I know they had to put a new intake/exhaust gasket on it. He said it was too loud got him, so he had them replace the cat with a glass pak. It sounds pretty good. As for more preformance, I'd just go thru the engine and have it tuned to factory specs. That way you would make sure you are getting all the ponys it's susposed to put out. As far as mods, I went with a ZX dizzy and a blaster coil. That really woke my engine up. I guess the old system was a little tired. I have a 74 260 in mine. With the 390CFM Holley, the timing is set at 10*. It passed todays california smog sniffer. I get 24mpg no matter how I drive. I also run the cheap gas.

I've got the complete Monza system on my 77. Headers included. I absolutly love the sound. It's not too loud, kind of throughty, no crackle. It sounds like a healthy engine. Especially when my 4bbl opens up!. It's very livable and doesn't hurt your ears when you drive with the windows down. In fact, 2 other members in our club have bought, or are buying the same system after they heard mine. That's my take on it.

Welcome to the club. I have an 260 engine in my 77 and love it. Every 280 I've run with, I've managed to creep away from them. That sort of makes them upset. The Z owners in this area tend to shy away from the 260 for some reason or another. It seems that if it isn't a 240, they want an 280. So far I've taken a good 260 engine to the JY as no one wanted it and just gave away another complete 260 car. Get rid of that electronic ignition that's on it. It's really spendy if you have to repair it. Drop a ZX dizzy in it and really feel it come alive. I'm assuming you have the late model 260. A set of round top SU's will make your life a lot happier also. There are people around who can make the flat tops run good, but they don't really like them. Enjoy the so called black sheep of Z cars. I think the turm should be a wolf in sheeps clothing.

Listen to all above. Keep the round top carbs. They can be worked with real easy. IMO they are far more user friendly to troubleshoot than a FI system. True, I still don't understand the FI system completely. Use the ZX dizzy and 5 speed. Note! Make sure you have everything you need to mount the mechanical fuel pump on the head. Pop the valve covers off both heads, You will see what I'm trying to say. I'm pretty sure you will need the piece that works the fuel pump. After that is done and the carbs are synced, have a blast!

I have a 77 with an 78 5 speed and love it. I had the same problem as you do. I had a bad slave cyl. I have to agree with Dtsnlovs. The clutch pedal height is critical. I forget the measurement and what points they are taken from. The FSM should tell you. I tried the gravity feed, but it took too long. So I did the old pop bottle and hose thing. After this was done, it's a sweet ride and shift.

The answer is yes, providing you have everything you need. The following link is an exalent how to write up on it with pics. I've used this tech tip on 2 of my Z's so far and have never had a problem. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

many thanks Greg. If it wasn't for people who don't mind sharing, building our cars would really be a pain. Thanks to forum's like this, it's a pleasure to be part of the Z community.

Do yourself a favor. Go to ArizonaZ's website and read their articles on the setup you want. The 390CFM is plenty. Don't settle for anything you can get. I love my setup, I get an honest 24mpg no matter how I drive it. Well, the truth be known, I do like the sound of that 4bbl opening.

Check/clean/replace your 4 way hazzard switch. If that doesn't work, your turn signals won't work either. That's why they worked intermittenly when you jiggled the wire bundle to the console. This is a common cause that has people pulling their hair out.

Read this link. I'm sure it will save you a bunch of bux. I did it myself and it works great. It's in PDF format, so just print it out and go for it. I'm pretty sure it will answer all of your questions. http://web.newsguy.com/glamke/RekeyZlock.pdf

I've often thought of using the windshield antenna for mine. Interesting idea of running it in the window channel. Sorry to hijack your thread, but I see you mentioned Red LED lights in the dash. How are you going about this? What kind of light holders are you using? How many are needed for each gauge? The reason I'm asking this, is because I just did the white face gauge overlay in my 77 and had thought of using the blue LED's. However, the green lights still let me see my gauges pretty good.

If you are running the late 74 electronic ignition instead of the early 74, I can see why you want to change. Those brain boxes are quite spendy! I used an 80ZX dizzy on my 77 with a 260 engine. I also have a blaster coil. Talk about a difference! I'm like the guys above, I'll never be without it. I'm also putting the same setup in my GF's 73 240Z. NOTE!!!! When you go to the JY to pick up that Dizzy, make sure you get the ZX hold down bracket, as they are different than the Z's.

Hey all. 4 days ago I was searching any and all on line Z web sites looking for a certain tech article. While doing this, I noticed a tech article on replacing floor pans. Being the old fart I am, I forgot to bookmark it. I've spent the last 3 days looking for it. Does anyone know of such an article? If I remember correctly, it was listed on the left side of the page. Please don't ask which web site it was on, as I can't remember. All I know is that it was a Z site. Many thanks in advance. I'm just trying to keep another Z on the road.

Well, I was close about the second relay. One turns on when the starter is energised and shuts off when the engine is started. The other one turns on when the alt hits 400rpm. I believe the smaller one is for the starter circuit. In my case, both the elect and mech pumps turned out to be faulty. Just my luck, go figure.

Just trying to figure out what your question is, I'll go with this. Do you want to put one of them in the 280? Do you have an engine in the 280 right now? If so, then it's a pretty straight forward swap. You will have to change a lot of stuff converting from gas to FI. Just make sure you know what goes where. Clean all the connections before hooking them back up. As far as choice of engines go, use the best one. There isn't all that much difference. I believe the 240 will rev a little better than the 260. Good luck in your swap.

I'm doing the same thing on my 260. I asked almost the same question on zcar.com. They are located up above the fuse box to the right. Yup, in that wiring mess. Check out my post there. I got an answer about bypassing the relay, and which wires you do it with. I just might put in an aftermarket relay and wire it accordingly. I really see no need for 2 relays, unless one of them cuts fuel when there is low or no oil pressure.

A friend of mine has done the same thing you are wondering about doing on 2 Z cars. One is his daily driver for years and the other he is getting ready to sell as a roller. He said the POR 15 seals so good that he had a hard time getting the body drains to drain normally. You have to have rust for POR 15 to work. It penatrates and cures from the inside out. Don't worry about all the little cracks and creavaces. The POR 15 will take care of that. Just take a wire brush and get the flakey stuff off. Coat the rest of it. Give it proper drying time and paint to suit. My friend took all the glass out of his cars before he started. He actually built a proper seal around the windshield as the factory left it pretty rough counting on the rubber gasket to do the sealing. Well, we all know how that turned out. When you are done undercoating and sealing all the inner panels of your Z, enjoy your newly rust free Z for years to come.

Those bumpers are pretty flimzey. You can tweek them pretty easy. I did mine, now it lays flat.

That's a pretty big job. Eastwood makes a special bit to drill out spot welds. Be warned, it will look like swiss cheeze when you are done. You might get a POR 15 catalog and check out some of their other stuff. You can get rods and actually spray the stuff into creveces, such as door panels, fender wells, rocker panels, ect. I'd try this way first before I removed the inner fender liner.