Seppi72

So, I got a set of "proper" banjo fittings with crush washers from Demon Tweeks. But how do I get them to crush? Is there some particular torque value I need to apply to the hollowed-out bolts or do I just get them finger-tight plus, let's say, a quarter turn??

It's like remodeling a bathroom. Once you put a sledgehammer hole in the drywall, you are IN, brother.

Well, I'll get the car on my QuickJacks this weekend and then lift the tranny into position, bolt it up on its crossmember and see which shaft fits. I'm hoping it's at least one of them.

I found painting my block to be an almost Zen-like experience.

One more question on this topic: Is the 5-speed slightly longer than the 4-speed? I have three driveshafts and two of them are a little bit shorter than the other and I want to get started on reconditioning whichever one will go into my car.

Thanks for digging up those options, @LeonV . I decided to go with the eBay fittings.

@SteveJ , I was just about to post my own photo of my roll of petroleum-rated Teflon tape. I used this stuff extensively both in college and during my chemistry career.

Thanks, @EuroDat . I have most of those items already and will now look for the others.

They are non-magnetic, so probably aluminum but with thicknesses around 0.90 mm how much "crushability" do they have? The grief is that the carbs came with banjos set up for series fuel delivery: two T connectors and one single bent at 90 degrees so I had to get something for the parallel setup.

Ooh, they look nice but quite pricey.

We'll see once they arrive later this week. I think I have plenty of room to twist them into a proper up-angle and still have a good seal with gasoline-rated Teflon tape. Probably won't even use the Buna-N O-rings unless I have to.

Well, that's the thing, @LeonV , the washers I got are not copper. I've gone with the M12 x 1.5, 90 degree hose barb fittings and be done with it. A lot of my grief is because I'm using the Nissan competition fuel rail from JDM-Car-Parts (https://jdm-car-parts.com/) that has three outlets - one for each Weber, like wiring something in parallel. I'll likely just do direct, in-series plumbing for my other L28 with Webers when I get to that one.

If, @Yarb, by "old school," you mean brute force, then that's the way I ended up going too. I initially cobbled up three hook arms from coat hanger wire and attached them to my 5-pound slide hammer. They didn't have the tensile strength to overcome the press fit friction between the tranny tail housing and the rear seal. So, I cut away as much inside rubber from the old seal as I could and then used small cold chisel and hammer to gradually cut a groove down through the metal ring of the seal. Once that was done, I hammered one edge of the cut at an inward angle until the metal bent inwards, relieving the press fit at which point the old seal was removable. There are a few nicks on the aluminum tranny housing edge from doing it this way, but nothing that will affect performance. Some 3-in-1 oil and a 36 mm socket and hammer then made it easy to install the new seal. Now, @Zed Head, I have another question. I was easily able to use 800 grit paper to remove residual gasket material and pitting on the front cover. But doing the same on the mating surface inside the bell housing is another matter as I can't get a sanding block down in there. I don't want to use a scraper as I won't have angles to prevent gouging the aluminum. Any recommendations?

I have triple Webers for my L28 and they came with banjo fittings for the fuel inlets. However, the fittings only have metal washers for both sides of the banjos. Even at the rather low fuel pressure needed for carbs, I don't think that metal washers alone are a good way to ensure against leaks. Buna-N rubber has high resistance to gasoline so I was thinking of using O-rings or thin flats cut from 1/32" sheet material in addition to the metal washers. But in doing so I'm not sure that the stack height will give me enough thread engagement with the carb body. Has anyone got useful experience either way? I'll probably call Pierce Manifolds to see what they have to say. Honestly, I would have thought that an M12 x 1.5 threaded hose barb fitting, Buna-N O-ring and gasoline-rated Teflon tape would be a better call here. There are nickel-plated copper fittings (the plating gives it extra corrosion protection) of that size on Amazon so I'll probably get some. Just miffed at having to spend the extra money.

Thanks, @Zed Head , I do know the shim is in the front cover. I'll get some Hylomar Blue. Any advice on pulling that rear seal? Modified slide hammer?