Seppi72

That's what I used as Part 82 and it did the trick. No need for Part 33.

Considering that it will be close to 60 F Monday and Tuesday instead of the ~15 F it was around here last Christmas, I may actually get to do some work on my car in my unheated outbuilding. My small, propane, torpedo heater will be sufficient to make it quite comfortable.

@SteveE There may or may not be pre-drilled holes in the subframe - I need to look at my car tomorrow - but, regardless, Makita makes an awesome drill for just such occasions.

Thanks for the effort, Terrapin Z. I'll take the smaller one. We can discuss details in PMs.

Thanks, Mike. I'll start a dialog with this supplier. I just never figured that I'd pay almost as much for an L-bracket as I'm going to pay for a fuel pump.

View Advert Mounting bracket for NISMO electric fuel pump I want to put a NISMO fuel pump on my early-run '72 but my car did not come with the bracket to mount the pump. I understand this part was standard from the '73 model onwards. The photos show you what it generally looks like and where it's mounted by the rear diff. Living in Ohio, there are probably few to no early Zcars in boneyards anywhere near me. So I'm asking any of you sunny-weather types who have access to lots of early models to let me know if you would pull one for me. My option is to fabricate one myself and I have quite enough to do already. Advertiser Seppi72 Date 12/16/2023 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model S30

And that would seem to be THE problem, even with good panels, which I have. The freight charges getting them to Thailand and then getting the finished products back to the U.S. are phenomenal. Now, I'm no international shipping maven (are there any on this forum?), but just messing around within the UPS website produced a quote for a 15 pound box with dimensions of 43"x24"x7" at over $1,000. And that's just getting the panels to Thailand. I'll have to mess around with FedEx, DHL and the USPS but I suspect they will all be in the hundreds of dollars. So, unless you know someone going to Thailand for a while and who would take your panels there and back as checked baggage, this exceptional craftsman's work looks to be simply out-of-reach for a typical Zcar owner. I HOPE someone will be able to disprove the above statement.

Thank you for that imaginative and detailed report on reproducing the door panel chrome strip. I might just do that. BTW, I've contacted the owner of Treeaswa Retrocar Co., Ltd. in Thailand and will be mailing him a sample of the light blue vinyl fabric that I've chosen for the soft bits of my interior. I'm sure he will be able to work it as it was designed to be used in boat upholstery. I've also asked him to quote on the parts I need produced. Between that and the cost of shipping stuff from the U.S. to Thailand and back, I'm not sure it will be competitive with what a local auto upholstery shop would charge me but you never know until you ask and do your due diligence.

Whoa! That boy has got mad skills. I'll contact him even though he's in Malaysia. Between lower overhead costs and the freight charges, it might just be a wash with getting what I need done here in Columbus, Ohio. And probably faster too.

Thanks for those leads, AZ-240z. I shall definitely take a hard look at that option. And, CanTechZ, what can I say other than "WOW!" You went to a LOT of trouble to do that exploratory work and I truly appreciate it.

OK, in that case, if the chrome strip cannot be removed without its disfigurement or destruction, I might just buy two pieces of 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" 304 stainless bar stock from Grainger, cut them to length, radius two adjacent edges, polish them up and glue them in place. I'd use half-round but I can't find any that small. I might even be able to drill and tap the backside of those bars to accept jewelers screws coming through the metal plate. Sure, SS isn't chrome but because I'm going "custom" that won't make a difference.

Well, if it's "glued" on that almost makes things easier, wouldn't you think?

I was thinking of using a Dremel to cut away the flanges on the rivets and leave posts that I could later thread to accept nuts upon reassembly.

It's definitely up for consideration, Yarb, but I'd still like to know how to remove those chrome strips without ruining them. I do have another set of door panels from a 280Z that I parted out years ago so I might experiment on those if no one can answer my query.