Seppi72

That's what I used as Part 82 and it did the trick. No need for Part 33.

Considering that it will be close to 60 F Monday and Tuesday instead of the ~15 F it was around here last Christmas, I may actually get to do some work on my car in my unheated outbuilding. My small, propane, torpedo heater will be sufficient to make it quite comfortable.

@SteveE There may or may not be pre-drilled holes in the subframe - I need to look at my car tomorrow - but, regardless, Makita makes an awesome drill for just such occasions.

Thanks for the effort, Terrapin Z. I'll take the smaller one. We can discuss details in PMs.

Thanks, Mike. I'll start a dialog with this supplier. I just never figured that I'd pay almost as much for an L-bracket as I'm going to pay for a fuel pump.

View Advert Mounting bracket for NISMO electric fuel pump I want to put a NISMO fuel pump on my early-run '72 but my car did not come with the bracket to mount the pump. I understand this part was standard from the '73 model onwards. The photos show you what it generally looks like and where it's mounted by the rear diff. Living in Ohio, there are probably few to no early Zcars in boneyards anywhere near me. So I'm asking any of you sunny-weather types who have access to lots of early models to let me know if you would pull one for me. My option is to fabricate one myself and I have quite enough to do already. Advertiser Seppi72 Date 12/16/2023 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model S30

And that would seem to be THE problem, even with good panels, which I have. The freight charges getting them to Thailand and then getting the finished products back to the U.S. are phenomenal. Now, I'm no international shipping maven (are there any on this forum?), but just messing around within the UPS website produced a quote for a 15 pound box with dimensions of 43"x24"x7" at over $1,000. And that's just getting the panels to Thailand. I'll have to mess around with FedEx, DHL and the USPS but I suspect they will all be in the hundreds of dollars. So, unless you know someone going to Thailand for a while and who would take your panels there and back as checked baggage, this exceptional craftsman's work looks to be simply out-of-reach for a typical Zcar owner. I HOPE someone will be able to disprove the above statement.

Thank you for that imaginative and detailed report on reproducing the door panel chrome strip. I might just do that. BTW, I've contacted the owner of Treeaswa Retrocar Co., Ltd. in Thailand and will be mailing him a sample of the light blue vinyl fabric that I've chosen for the soft bits of my interior. I'm sure he will be able to work it as it was designed to be used in boat upholstery. I've also asked him to quote on the parts I need produced. Between that and the cost of shipping stuff from the U.S. to Thailand and back, I'm not sure it will be competitive with what a local auto upholstery shop would charge me but you never know until you ask and do your due diligence.

Whoa! That boy has got mad skills. I'll contact him even though he's in Malaysia. Between lower overhead costs and the freight charges, it might just be a wash with getting what I need done here in Columbus, Ohio. And probably faster too.

Thanks for those leads, AZ-240z. I shall definitely take a hard look at that option. And, CanTechZ, what can I say other than "WOW!" You went to a LOT of trouble to do that exploratory work and I truly appreciate it.

OK, in that case, if the chrome strip cannot be removed without its disfigurement or destruction, I might just buy two pieces of 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" 304 stainless bar stock from Grainger, cut them to length, radius two adjacent edges, polish them up and glue them in place. I'd use half-round but I can't find any that small. I might even be able to drill and tap the backside of those bars to accept jewelers screws coming through the metal plate. Sure, SS isn't chrome but because I'm going "custom" that won't make a difference.

Well, if it's "glued" on that almost makes things easier, wouldn't you think?

I was thinking of using a Dremel to cut away the flanges on the rivets and leave posts that I could later thread to accept nuts upon reassembly.

It's definitely up for consideration, Yarb, but I'd still like to know how to remove those chrome strips without ruining them. I do have another set of door panels from a 280Z that I parted out years ago so I might experiment on those if no one can answer my query.

My OEM door card pressboard innards are in pristine condition and have absolutely no water damage at all. All the holes for the spring-like "bayonet" clips are solid. It isn't so much that I need to follow any pattern on the new vinyl as it is very lightly grained (see photo). The only significant difference will be the lack of that indentation that marks a change in texture from the outer edges to the inner portion on the OEM panel (see photo). My biggest issue is how to remove and preserve the chrome strip along the top of the panel. It looks to be riveted from the back side (photo). Making it even more interesting, the right-side panel rivets are different from the left-side panel rivets. Has anyone ever removed and reinstalled this piece?

Has anyone here ever done a reupholstery job on their S30? In my restomod project I decided that I did not want a black interior, especially with that crisscross pattern material, and decided on light blue. I bought plenty of sky blue marine vinyl fabric from www.fabric.com (apparently no longer in business - at least using that name or URL) and it's a simple matter to do the tranny tunnel, doglegs, etc. using the OEM fabric for templates. I also got color-matched paint mixed for all the hard plastic pieces at a Columbus auto paint store (Ohio Auto Kolor). The rear wheel well covers are another matter and I plan to farm that out to a Columbus auto upholstery shop (Tritex) as it (1) will have to take apart one of the OEM covers to get proper piece sizes and (2) has the skill and equipment to make the new ones. What I want to do myself are the door cards so I'm asking if anyone has ever done such a thing.

I've been trying to upload a photo of the installation but have been getting an "unknown server error" message that the operation cannot be completed. Frustrating.

I did mount the fan - in pusher mode - on the car but have not completed the rebuild to the point where I've actually used it. I'll post a photo of the installation later today.

I was likely doing 60 on a paved county road.

Thanks for the advice, guys. I had the dealer put it on a lift and send me detailed pix of the underbody, wheel wells, door openings and rocker panels so I could check for rust. No issues there. In fact, everything looked almost brand new, which is what I expected from a car with only 18,000 on the odometer. Car had been used by an older woman in Springfield, MO its entire life so exposure to salt was likely minimal. Had the sales guy send me a video of his driving around and then doing quick starts in a big parking lot. Car performed as expected too. I got back at 11 p.m. EST last night from Jefferson City, MO with the "new" xD in tow. No real problems doing that other than moderate all across Indiana after dark, so headlight glare and semi spray made for an interesting time. Fortunately, there was no wind so I didn't have to worry about a wandering trailer. I haven't yet posted pix of the wrecked car so here are some of those just to show you how well it held up in a violent crash - which is one reason that I wanted to get the same model of car. That last photo shows one of the headlight cases stuck in a tree over the creek from when I was flipping end-over-end. If you look below it at about 6 o'clock you'll see a red rectangle there in the tree as well. I think that's a backing frame for the right taillight. Very happy to have walked away from that with just a broken rib from the shoulder belt.

It's certainly been a LONG while since anyone has posted on this thread, but I chose it due to its "purity" of topic. Does anyone have any recent experience in shipping a car - any car, not just a Z - using a commercial carrier? I've gotten a number of quotes for what I need to do and, of course, ALL of them claim to be "5-star" or "the best in the business" and, quite rightly, I think, I'm leery of such self-promotion. A couple refer to reviews posted on www.transportreviews.com and, once again, I'm leery as this website might simply be a smokescreen with phantom posts or ratings generated by how much the companies are paying the website proprietor. I rely upon the honest opinions of folks on this website because I know quite a few of you from my years of being here and also know that we all love our Z cars and try to help one another whenever we can. So, I'm hoping that collective wisdom can provide answers to my concerns.

My beloved daily driver Scion xD got totaled Wednesday night after hitting a deer, going airborne and flipping end-over-end down a creek bed. I want to get another xD but the best deal I've fund is located in Jefferson City, MO and that's almost 500 miles from me in central Ohio. So does anyone live in or near Jeff City who would be able to give that car a good looksee, test drive and assure me it's not a dud? I'm willing to pay for your time to do this.

Thanks for your efforts, CanTechZ. You might need to add some other dimensions as well but that will have to wait until I (or someone else) can actually try to fabricate a part from these files.

Surgery was a breeze: in surgery at 11:30 a.m. and discharged at 5 p.m. Whatever surgical pain I have is no worse that what the joint pain was beforehand -- and at least I can look forward to this pain going away. Getting around the house just fine without a walker but have one for outdoors. Hoping to be in my shop media blasting a rear strut by the weekend as my Eibach springs will be getting here on Friday so I can start to assemble those bits. Techno Toy Tuning rear suspension parts arriving this week as well. Those will likely have to wait for a January install when I can easily get up and down from a creeper. Goals, goals, goals. Looking forward to seeing your lay-flats and if and how they might differ from what ETI4K has done. They'll probably be with a millimeter of each other.