ChipF47

I am still having problems. I have noticed that the new plugs, that I installed at the start of this project, were all "sooted up". I realize this is an indication the fuel mixture is incorrect, but don't know what to look at to remedy the situation. It still runs rough and won't idle after changing from Bosh to NGK's. Can I somehow test the Air Flow Meter? Thanks for any help anyone can afford.

Still not running well. I have replaced another injector and the Distributor, but no change. Just for fun, I adjusted the valves. Also got another air flow device but have not replaced it yet and a friend suggested the cold start injector might be the problem. I feel like I may rebuild the whole car before I find the problem. Can anyone tell me where the TPS is on this car?

The Fuel pressure did not change. The New pump acted just as the old one according to the guage. I removed the vacuum hose from the regulator and the pressure rose. I put some more pictures on my gallery.

Today I replaced the fuel pump and still no change. A friend of mine was here and we were able to keep it running and remove plug wires from each cylinder in turn. When the fourth cylinder wire was removed, there was no change and my friend became convinced that the problem might be the injector on this cylinder due to the new plug wire and plug. The injector has not been changed. Another symptom that I failed to mention, involves the "hunting" noticed on the Tach. The RPM's vacilates even though you are holding the gas steady. Also I noticed that the Tach will momentarily drop to almost zero RPM's and then recover to the vacilating condition mentioned.

I put fresh gas in the tank and started the car. It still won't idle and the fuel pressure drops as RPM's increase. I pulled the vacuum line to the FPR and the pressure did increase. The motor did not seem to run any better with increased pressure. When the line was repositioned on the FPR the pressure fell and acted as it has all along.

This AM I drained the tank, blew air through all lines and momentarily ran the pump to clear out any thing in there. I looked for the Walbro pump on their site but could not find it. My pump is not in the tank and I would like to keep it that way. On the way to get fresh gas for attempt at run. Will let you know what happens.

Thanks for the info. I replaced the fuel filter and the FPR when I first got the car as an atempt to correct the condition. The car does not idle well and as soon as you try to increase RPMs, the fuel pressure drops from about 35 to 25 PSI.

I spliced a pressure guage into the fuel line after the filter and started the vehicle. At any speed above idle , the pressure dropped to below 30 PSI. Sounds like I need to inspect the fuel lines and perhaps change the pump.

Well, I changed the coil today and still runs like crap.

Lance Thanks for the reply. I have been reading some of the other post here and seen where the coil has been a problem. When I was conducting the compression test, the book said to remove the coil wire at the coil. When I was cranking the engine to get readings on each cylinder, the coil was arching on itself very visably. Is this normal? Thanks, Chip

I have had my 1981 280Zx Turbo for about 2 months . I purchased the car from a man who let it sit for about 3 years without running. I was able to start it with a jump from another vehicle and drive it home. It ran rough and to this date I have done the following: 1. Plugs 2. Plug wires 3. oxygen sensor on the exhaust 4. test fuel injectors and replace 2 5. Dist Cap and Rotor moved dist to seek best position 6. Fuel regulator 7. Fuel filter 8. Compression check no real low indications 9. Valve adjustment After all this it still runs about the same. Won't idle and seem rough at higher RPM levels. Oddly enough it will sometimes clear up and run smooth and idle well for a short period of time and then revert to the described condition. I am at a loss but beleive it may be some sensor or other non internal problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.