2-4-T-Z-MAN

Did all the ZG's go to the UK, and Aus.? That seems to be the case from what I'm seeing on this site.

LONETREESTEVE, LOOK ON THE ENGINE BLOCK, DRIVER'S SIDE TO THE RIGHT OF THE MOTOR MOUNT. THE BLOCK NUMBER IS LOCATED THERE. IF IT IS AN E-31 YOU HAVE A 1970. IF IT IS AN P-30 YOU HAVE A 1971-1973.

Where in central Fla?

Bill, If you want that question answered along with a ton of other useful information, try Ultimate Z Car's site. I just recently found and printed alot of information on the various heads and engine builds.

I bought my '72' in 1977. I was the second owner. The guy wanted $2000. It had a bad dif. mount and he came down to $1500. The dealer had told him it was a bad dif. and wanted $500 for repairs. It's been what I call gatorade yellow, the orig color. It was white for a number of years , then red. Now it's nissan champagne. Both of my kids fight about who gets the car when I die. I think I'll take it with me. It's never let me down.

Where are you located?

Gray smoke usually means burning oil, however it can also mean water vapor. Black smoke usually means you're running too rich. Did it smoke before? Check for water in your oil and check to see if the water in the radiator is milky. If either of the se thing appear you could have a problem with the head or head gasket. Did you replace the radiator because the car over heated? If neither of these things appear, then start on the vacuum lines. Good luck.

Jack the car high enough to place the tranny on a floor jack. Make a small cradle out of 2x4's, about 10"x10". Make the cradle by crisscrossing two 2x4's on top and 3 on the bottom. They should be square to one another. The center 2x4 on the bottom can be bolted to the floor jack. Place the tranny on the cradle, roll it under the car. You might want to secur the tranny to the cradle with some rope. I didn't as it sat fairly stable in the cradle. Make sure the clutch assembly is lined up correctly. Jack up the tranny so that the imput shaft is lined up to the clutch assembly. Now comes the fun part . Unless you are very lucky, the splines will need to be finessed into the clutch. But with a little jiggling they will mate up. Bolt the bell housing up. Jack up the tranny for the tranny mount. Button up every thig else and go for a ride. Good luck !!!!

What color was the smoke?

If you are having trouble with vapor lock, have you installed a heat sheild between the manifold and the carbs? If not that will most likely take care of your problem. I fabed one out of sheet alum. and it made a world of difference. I'm also running 6-2-1 headers with the ceramic coating. And SER240Z is correct about the Solex's and the Mikuni's.

Paul, I have Mikunis on my L28. They are 40's because I could not find 44's. A buddy of mine that repairs and races datsuns rejetted and adjusted them. The car runs like a scalded dog. I chose the Mikunis base on his experience as a mechanic. He said that although both brands are capable of producing more hp the Mikunis are simpler . Good luck! Bear

Thanks Lance. Possession is something I wanted to mark off the list. Bear

That's a good possibility. Maybe more so than the clock being possessed!!!! Any more ideas out there?

Yeah, it will keep good time for a day or two, even when not driven during that time.

It came out of a later model Z. All I did was a small adjustment to the orig. clock's bezel so that it would fit the clock case. Snip off the plug and replace with a male and a female barrel plug, and plug it into the orig. harness..

OK all you Z pros. I adapted a quartz clock to fit the dash of my '72'. Fits good, looks orig. and keeps perfect time- - - - - -while the car is running and for a short period after the car is parked and turned off. There was no rewiring to plug it in to the harness. It worked for about 3 days when first installed, while sitting in my garage, then stopped. When to the Z-Fest, it ran and kept time. Went to drive it last night after sitting for a couple of weeks. It had stopped and now it is still running this morning. Is it possessed? Or is it just that the quartz needs more than what the old clock would have needed to continue to run?

The headlight assembly is removed from the underside of the fender. Easiest way is to jack up the front for clearence around the wheels.

When I rebuilt my 72 I used the Haynes manual. I too installed a L28 and the information was complete enough. That was about 8000 miles ago. The Haynes has information on 240,260, and 280. One book makes it easier.

PADDING THE REPAIR QUOTE IS FRAUD! INSURANCE COMPANIES WORK WITH SAME QUOTE BOOKS AS THE REPAIR SHOPS, SO THERE IS NO ROOM FOR THAT ANYWAY. THE INSURANCE COMPANY IS GOING TO PAY FOR NO MORE THAN THE DAMAGES SUBSTAINED IN THE ACCIDENT. AND THE QUESTION ABOUT SOME SPECIAL COLLECTIBLE CLAUSE, NO SUCH THING. YOU ARE PROVIDED 30 DAYS OF COVERAGE BY YOUR CURRENT COMPANY, IF YOU ALREADY HAD A CAR THAT WAS COVERED. HOWEVER THE COVERAGE TYPE IS BASED ON WHETHER THE NEW CAR WAS A REPLACEMENT CAR OR AN ADD ON. IF IT IS A REPLACEMENT OF A VEHICLE ALREADY COVERED THEN THE NEW CAR IS COVERED WITH THE SAME BENEFITS AS THE CAR IT IS REPLACING. IF THE NEW CAR WAS AN ADD ON VEHICLE THEN YOU WILL BE PROVIDED LIABILITY COVERAGE ONLY. NO COMP. AND NO COLL. IN EITHER CASE THEY WILL STILL ONLY PAY FOR THE DAMAGES. THEY AREN'T RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FADED PAINT NOT MATCHING. YOUR BEST BET IS TO WORK A DEAL WITH THE BODY SHOP AND SEE IF THEY WILL CUT YOU A BREAK BY LETTING YOU DO SOME OF THE WORK YOURSELF. USING THE MONEY FROM THE INS. CO. TO BUY PARTS . THEN MAYBE YOU CAN STRECH THE MONEY TO GET THE WHOLE CAR PAINTED. GOOD LOCK !!!!!!!!!

Mark, Black smoke usually means that you are running too rich a mixture. New carbs might take care of the problem if they are adjusted correctly. A tune-up might be needed. Why are you getting a new set rather than rebuilding the ones you have?

Justazcarguy, I have a carter race pump, just because I got a good deal on it. The regulator is set at 3.5 lbs. If you are running a mild cam you might need more. Good luck.

My 240 is equiped very similar to yours. I have 40mm mikunis, rejetted for my L28 with K& N filters. An msd ignition, with 6-2-1 headers. When I built the engine I left it pretty stock, only boring it 20over to clean the cylinder walls. Prior to everything just mentioned other than the rebuild I was using a little solid state fuel pump that was fine until I installed K&N's on my SU's. At that point I bought a new fuel pump and pressure regulator. When I installed the Mikunis I had to adjust the flow because I was having the same problem you described.

I have the same setup on my 240. Lance is correct. The pump is not able to keep up with the demand.

Not to mention the paint is faded. Seats don't look original. More like 104000 or maybe 204000 miles.