2-4-T-Z-MAN

Check out Too Intense Restoration. They have alot of material I cound't find in other areas. It sounds like the tan power is the foam is turning to dust. They have had the replacement foam in the past. As far as cost goes that will depend on what you want. Orig. or not. You'll spent maybe $200.00 a seat for new foam and uphostery to stay orig. If that is not a concern then you have all kinds of options for non-orig. seats. Both after market or different vehicle model seats, ie. Miata seats fit. Good luck ,have fun, hope I've helped.

Vicky, As Ed has said the shoes can weld themselves to the drums. Another problem that can take place is the e-bracke cable will corrode and freeze up, or not fully release. I'm currently having to replace mine.

Ed, I would have preferred polishing anything rather than dodging falling oak trees, 105 mph winds, neighbor's tree branches, no power for 4 days, cold showers and no car shows on TV. Your engine is going to look great. Good job!

Never heard of a 3 speed manual z-car. The automatic is a 3 speed. Maybe his 4th is gone or the 4 on the shifter has been rubbed off and the owner hasn't found 4th yet. Oh man did I write that out loud? I'm a baaaaad boy.

If you aren't looking for pure stock appearance, but want to maintain the integrity of the bacic look go with the spook. I have had my car for 20 something years, and at one time I had the spook style and for the past 15, 16 years I have had the same ductless fiberglass airdam. It's your car and what ever you decide will be your own expression of how you want your car to look. Plus you can always change something like that. Have fun !!!!!

The Hatch Area Hurts The Neck ???!!!!! I Don't Even Want To Imagine A Visual !!! Oh Man It's Creeping Into My Minds Eye------aaaaahhhhhhhh (hitting Head On Desk) Get Out, Get Out !!!!

Driver's side, passenger side or hatch area ?????????

Jason, I see that you have a 72 240 listed. Is that's the car you are referring to? If so, your first guess could be correct. What you also need to check is the plug gap, the point gap or dwell, make sure the vacume advance is working smoothly. How old are the plug wires? Are they a good quality brand? What about the coil? On the other end would be weather or now you are getting enough gas. Check the filter. Are you running SUs? Did the problem just start? What is different if the problem just started? Did you replace or repair anything? If so you might just need to back track. Good luck. Barrie

I had to go look. Mine is a 72 and it is pressed and peened.

Your e-brake may not be releasing completely. Sometimes the cable will rust inside and restrict movement. Check the cable attachment at the drum and see if there is movement. If not pry it over and then spin the wheel. If the drag sound goes away, replace the cable or at least remove it and try to run some penatrating oil inside the housing.

Could you e-mail the pics to me showing the frame rails and lower rockers and front fenders? I'm at bennettes3@netzero.net. I am really interested. Thanks Barrie

What did you say you were asking?

I'm there, put me down for at least one set. Barrie

Are you going to race the car? If so what you're wanting to do is important on a performance basis. If it is a street car, you can just bolt the square port up and go. If you measure the round opening I believe you will find that the square port opening is equal or larger. Square can bolt to round but not round to square. Good luck.

I think I too would be hard pressed to sell a car in such condition, so I understand about the conflict in selling. It's just that I have a friend that used his stuff as a validation of his worth or stature. Good guy and all that, just looked at things in a different manner.

Do any of you guys know the seller? Maybe this is his way of getting stroked!! He sits around saying "Everybody wants what I have and look what they're willing to pay".

dhoneycutt, What you are looking at is the "flow guide valve". If you have a haynes book look on page 66, Fig. 3.74. Don't ya just love this site?

Do you think he used an old-old picture of the engine bay? If I had a 300 engine in a car listed for sale I'd have that picture posted.

Ditto to the M for a "72". You have a different key for the doors than the ignition?

The only way the crossfire and the 240 are related is if there was some funny business going on in the parts bin. You know kissing cousins.

Hay Tanny, Didn't mean to step on any toes. It's just that at this point I'm seeing more $$$$ interest in the earlier Z's. The 73's will come about with time but I doubt they'll catch up with the earlier models simply due to the numbers avaliable. But who knows, only time will tell.

Are you including the hinges for the hood?

I run 93 to 95 octane in my 72. Chris is correct about the purpose of the lead. With the hardened valve seats, unleaded is no problem. I have heard that unleaded has an additive to protect engine parts as the lead did. There where a lot of cars on the road that where not designed for unleaded when it first appeared. Could be an urban legend!