2-4-T-Z-MAN

Well, if the hat were too tight that might explain your "screw drivers" response. !!!

Bill, Have you been wearing that big tight hat again?

Well Vicky, Over here in Polk county we call them the "white headed ganders". They drive 25 mph, make left hand turn outs to turn right, and think that the turn signal is a sign of their right of way. Not that their driving bothers me! Oh yeah, and they drive Buicks

You are right, Vicky!!!! My son and I are leaving right from school on Friday. We'll be in Orlando by about 4:00.

I bought my MIG some 13 years ago from Sam'S Club for about $195.00. My wife was pi--ed, mad, that I wasted the money. Since then I've repaired several of her things along with various Z items.

Check the fuel filter. To start up right after shutting down, sounds like the filter is clogging, and when it sits the dirt settles back to the bottom until sucked up again.

Would a flat center plate fit on the front? Doesn't the front wheel hub stick out beyond the wheel?

Seems that the geezers are winning the " Where are the Z's" war. I'm 51. Had my 72 since 1977. Street and show car. Driven not trailered.

Well if the car you are looking at was in Florida I'd say don't do it and where is it. Since it's in Cali. go for it. IF, most of the car checks out. Look for fluid leaks,oil, water, check the water in the radiator. If it's milky you could have a head gasket leak. Look behind the wheels for brake fluid leaks. Check the fuel filter for excess crud. Look at the back of the engine between the block and transmission. An oil leak there could mean a rear seal is leaking. Remove the air filter, stick your finger in the carb and push up on the piston. See if it travels easily. Both up and down. If it takes a while to drop, then it will need to be cleaned. Crank the car and repeat the carb thing while running. Listen for variations in sound. Also does it die. My 72 was a daily driver for several years, like 20. It never left me on the side of the road, but I was always inspecting her to keep tabs of the condition. Good Luck

Since it's injected, I would think it's the air flow meter. My 300 does the same thing sometimes. You might want to check out the throttle valve. They can get gummed up and need to be cleaned.

Mine is-was a garage queen. I spent so much time building her I was concerned about what I'd do if someone scratched her. That changed 3 1/2 years ago. Now I just drive when I want. Usually dry days though. Cars are meant to be driven. I still use my '90' as my daily driver, except today. 81 degrees and sunny. Had to take her out today.

Check with Mull. Maybe you can get it in CF. That would look great.

You might find that a used gasket will just leak. A thin film of silicon can be used on each side of a gasket to help seal and hold the gasket in place, but not as a gasket itself. Oil preasure will find the weakest point and leak. If yo have a hard time finding a proper gasket, just purchase some gasket material and cut your own. Good luck.

Hey Alfadog, I see a CF roof on the car, do you see a hood?

Do you think all of that work in modifying the headlights is necessary? How often do you have to replace a headlight?

Are you guys still on the "What parts would like to see made from CF?" thread. Or has it morphed to THE TWILIGHT ZONE of CF parts and applications? Just courious.

Faked his own death?

Inline6, Yours is the reason I suggested that bondo was placed on the metal up to the edge of the flare. Then glass the flare to the bondo. Fiberglass will not stick to metal, but bondo will and fiberglass will stick to bondo. As I said my fiberglass rear quarters have been on for 12 years without cracking. With no metal fasteners.

Do you want only the stock look? Or are you also looking for customs?

If the flares are glass and you want to bond them, MSA sells a great epoxy for that purpose. The method I used to bond the rear quarters to my car has held without cracking for 12 years. 1) Trace the flare shape on your rear quarters. 2) Grind the paint above the line you just made about 3 inches. 3) Go below that line an amount equal to the lip on the top of the flare. Use 40 grit paper. 4) Retrace your line. 5) Take a small ballpeen hammer and go over the area above the line to recess it a small amount. 6) Use the epoxy from MSA to adhere the flares. Use a couple selftapping screws to hold them in place. Do one side at a time to avoid rushing yourself. Remove the screws once the glue has dried. 7) Feather grind about 1 inch of the edge of the flares to meet the hammered area of the quarters. 8) Apply a thin coat of bondo on the quarter up to the edge of the flare. Sand smooth with 40 grit paper. 9) Then cut 3 inch wide strips of fiberglass cloth. Apply two to three layers over the feathered flare edge, overlapping onto the bondo. One inch on the flare and two inches on the quarters. Any seams should be overlapped with the next layer of cloth. 10)Sand down any rough areas of glass with 40 grit paper. Skim with bondo to smooth. 11)Do the finish sanding, prime and paint. A little more involved, but it wont crack. And there's nothing worse than to spend time and money to have a job last only a short while. Good luck ! Barrie

Looks like my car.

Wasn't there a post on this car earlier this week?