dspillman

Motor Sport Auto.. Check out their website ..I would swear they have em in their most resent catalog for like $32 a side, or pair. Good Luck, david

We may both be right if they changed over the years.... I friend of mine has a one owner 75 he parked several years back, that I'll have to check out tomorrow for these elusive items.....I would guess these have been discarded over the years when knocked loose or carpet changed out, just like the plastic seat guards. david

The 3 sets well, 2 1/2 sets I've seen appear to have started out as cad plated, mine are shiny....in spots. They very well may have started out painted black, I just haven't seen any. Why bother with cad-plating only to paintem? Later models maybe. david

I'd guess $650 door to door..... Go to dependableautoshippers.com or DAS.com....or something like that, you can get a quote preety quick online... david

WOW.... I thought hubcaps were outrageous..... david

Beandip, These clips are about 3" long.... David

Chris, the third is coming to my house.....the fourth will come to auction in 5 days or so.... Find a good used set...$200-$300 have them refinished for another $1000....not much difference in price in my eyes. david

I to feel it nuts to pay that kinda $$$ for hub caps, but I'm not seeing any other options out there.... Where would you guys search for perfect or near perfect, never used hubcaps? Foolishness?...Hardly david

Its about supply and demand....and need it right now. NOS is limited.....I had a set of radio knobs I found in a box listed for about 30 minutes before they sold for $35 BUYNOW....I priced them too cheap I guess....maybe try one at a time next time I have em :surprised david

Your gonna have trouble getting much negative camber without camber plates....lowering the car will help some, but without more camber your tires aren't gonna provide max traction...what tire/wheel combo you using? Excentric bushings, and a couple of other tricks can also give additional camber... Without adjustments at swaybar ends, you will most likely have some preload, which amounts to more spring rate at that end of car...I think. I've always set up alignment, corner weights..all adjustments with sway bar un-hooked, then adjusted swaybar end links so there is no preload while sitting. No adjustment on stock bar.....You have looked under there? :classic: .... The end links really needs to be adjustable....to avoid preload. Different attachment points on sway bar can be welded on as well to allow changiong lever arm length. david

Here are a couple of pics of clips mentioned above.. GunnerRob described perfectly First is early 240 velcro patches Next is actual installed in early 260, but is same at least back to Vin 40,000. Intersting not in Micro fish.... David

I've seen a couple in cars with original carpet they just help hold the carpet from sliding around....the front carpet had 2 holes that were under front edge of seat right in front of the front seat mount....that fit over a L-like inch wide lip ....not on early cars, but 72-73 cars for sure....After market replacement carpet kits may not have been stamped with opening so clips were thrown away.... Matter of fact these will be my first "experiment" with electroplating system. david

:surprised http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2489595288&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEDW%3AIT I haven't shopped early hub caps lately..for NOS is this a "average" price? I may have to consider aftermarket mags for my projects. Hard to justify $1200 a car...HUBCAPS!! I did participate somewhat in the frenzy, but I hoped to find one to get the color "right". I have 3 straightcaps, but all paint except center have been removed. david

Love to see a few Pics of the gathering. David

If still looking for the inner fender, let me know. I have a 77 with front suspension off.."ITS race car donor"..I'm pretty sure its there Get me at volgolf@aol.com David

Sopwith 21, Camber in front at least 2 1/2 neg...more if you can get it.... In the rear...2 1/2 neg more if ya got it..keep check on the wear, and temps My car seems to handle better at 5 3/4" rocker panel height then 5" ...too low can screw up the geometrys Go out and have a blast! David

:surprised Concerns for me are: where does the carb bowl vent line dump?..wraps around bowl, not to air filter. Missing Metel filler between front bumper and grill..can be hard to find...need to swap on early bumper/brackets, save 30 pounds. Have hoses been replaced on the fuel tank to stop apparent fuel leak thats stained right side of gas tank. 73 N-33 intake has short studs as 74 "N-36"...both came with thin carb spacer.....appear identical otherwise.... David

Sopwith21... D/A..double adjustable, work good, but I've had the upper bushing fail repeatedly, forcing rebuild. 5 times in 3 years..... Quaife...Type of LSD .....kinda like a torsion/gleason diff...bunch of gears that prevent light inside tire from spinning.....as long as there is some resistence on the light side, off the ground all bets are off, its gonna spin. My car at the time had excessive understeer when off the gas in a turn, gotta stay in the gas to cause slippage, as well as keeping suspension loaded. But handled fairly neutral while under power.....BUt really There's a lot of varibles in this, other then spring rates.... You really need to invest in a track day to sort out your driving style with diferent combos of suspension tweeks. Also invest in a limited slip diff of some sorts..that welded stuff robs a ton of power...every where your not running straight . get toe in zero'd at both ends as possible for the same reason...so long as you can still drive it....soft or worn bushings can make it scary with zero toe. david

If it still wants to understeer no matter what you do with setup, try some light left foot braking through the problem corners, keeping the power on though and assuming that the brakes can take the extra work. And let us know how it all goes, fascinating stuff. SOPwith21, You gonna have to be under power to get her to turn with that welded rearend....BTW, keep a eye on those stub axles as well for breakage....Something has to give or slip for you to turn with the locked diff. I ran with welded rear ....350f/250r rates with rear sway bar Koni D/As...Once I swapped in Quaife, the rear bar had to go. David

My guess for "high" 71-73 prices would be that NADA possibly values these prices with original price taken consideration....hmm...that doesn't make sense, but my thought. Have there been many 70 240s change hands recently that would give NADA something to base their "values" on?.... I've seen several 71-73s sell and for sale recently that were advertised as very nice condition... Maybe others can extrapolate futher.... I would be interested in seeing some of recently purchased car prices..... david

them guards are OK.....unless the bumper is flipped>) david

Impact wrench does the trick coming off, Must take more civilized approach torqueing back on... Screw driver on the tranny bolts is tricky one man job using torque wrench David

HI Sopwith21, I'll throw out one more combo....72 240z SCCA ITS I've ran F/R spring rates 400/300, 375/300, 350/300 , Last year I settled down with 400/300 koni D/As, without R sway bar, front bar about 1", quaife diff. zero rear toe, 1/8 toe in front....... Handles fairly neutral. I to have heard the reverse combo of heavier springs in rear, but haven't tried..."Mine works" for me. YMMV.... BTW...Keep a eye on your Link Mount Brace..."they help locate the rear of control arms". I just noticed mine were tearing, or breaking at bolt holes where they attach to the body .....lots of over steer... :surprised Waiting for next race weekend..... David Spillman

Jason, I had similar miss at 5500-5800, turned out to be leaking/failing brake booster, short term fix, plugged line at manifold, went away...wasted 2 race weekends, and 45 min on chassis dyno to track down. Shoot a little carb cleaner around carbs, linkage and such listen for rpm fluctuations.....helps me find big vac. leaks.. FWIW, David Spillman

RogersBW, Check your Private Messages on this website, I emailed 8/21..2:28PM . Contact me at volgolf@aol.com or 828-287-4925...cell 828-289-0098.......If arrangements aren't satisfactory with Ken. david spillman