dspillman
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Everything posted by dspillman
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Looking at the decal, I’ve not seen one in black and white…. No red or colors…. Did early ones have a “more plain” appearance? -
Have the jack that came with vin-51, can’t make out the markings, but has a clear enough decal….. anyone take a shot at the stamping? Couple different angles.. and lighting.
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While waiting for 51 to take shape , very close to applying primer, keeping eyes open for anything that is super early for this car, picked up a pair of early chrome Z quarter emblems, trying to eventually get everything “right” . Interior wise , basically starting from scratch….. eyes open for anything……
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Really happy how gas inlet area turned out after blasting. Just clean and reseal.
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Ready to get busy blocking…
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Talk about Japanese land mines!! Inside rear wheel wells…..Rookie z plug welder back in 1969….. I’ll have to remove this original feature for safety sake. Thick dealer installed under coating hid these gotchas……
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Gavin, I would think the hood bumpers may narrow down the date more so then the inspection clips, I remember January build vin 1222 had the tiny shot glass hood stops/bumpers and the plastic clips. I realize the hood stops could be swapped out for the later stops, as my vin 841 was at some point. I maybe wrong concerning the hood "bumpers", other markets may have differed in the use of these.
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Gav240z… Appears to have the plastic clips, and bolt through rubber hood stops.. putting it in January-ish time span
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Looking at the rear glass appears to be replaced……is dated January 71. I owned hls30-1222 years ago, plastic clips, and vented hats.
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Early fenders inspection lid tabs are slightly different with metal versus plastic clips. I’m sure most know of this, but I simply had not noticed that and other differences in “early 69-72”? Fenders, nos fenders will have to be made right, but definitely another 3-4 steps to take for each fender to be right….”look” right.
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Progress finally being made on 51, up on rotisserie with new rails, floors, front clip, rear valance, dog legs, sections roof, and roof rail replaced, repaired. 3 weeks in with a couple of retired body men, that are definitely up to the task!!
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Looks like I’ve found a nice doner peice for the left side inner fender extension? Where both bumper and headlight buckets attach. Will continue to for now avoiding the entire front clip replacement
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Before abandoning the original metal work, I’m heating/dolly the metal to try and get back to original shape, first run through, smoothed out virtually all of the “marks” in the inner fender….. fortunately, I have access to a nice “tip of inner fender, “? The section that is adjacent to headlight “scoop”.
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Looking at this chart, that may or may not be applicable, it would seem a properly butt welded/ground smooth joint retains 65-75% of its original strength??
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I’m definitely open to all opinions about slicing the hat off, and re attaching….. pictures are of a parts car, with the severed tower head.
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I’m looking at all the welds to try and duplicate the original appearance and alignment of the entire structure.
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Quick update for hls30-00051 Having been back and forth with what to replace front radiator core support with… late/early.. spot weld imitating factory look, etc…… I’m fortunate to have the 4th option of just replacing front clip from another early car that was supposed to be a race car back in 2006/7….. too beautiful of rails and front clip, never hit or modified. Transfer front clip, swap out the tops of strut towers. Compared vin 51 to vin 3400 something I can’t really see any difference in rails etc……, Doing a practice run today , Cutting out one “top” should be a clean experience….
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Having not removed this section from a car before, was somewhat cautious, assuming there was a center support of sorts. I was surprised the strength of this 3 sided "box".... Regular bits for this, I have several different brands of spot weld bits ordered....
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Removed this reinforcement panel today,off a parts car to determine how difficult to replace on hls30-00051 It shouldn’t have taken 2 hours, but it did…… not for certain of the interior attachment points….. and they were non……. Bits don’t stay sharp long with this endeavor…..
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Thinking of drilling out spot welds, or cut outside the tower lip?
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Practice run…..
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drill out and replace the whole tower? buncha spot welds, that would be a pain to get all to look right...
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If 3496 didn’t have these blame camber plates, I could put the whole front clip on…
