dspillman

Gotta be a Bracket for the A/C unit I'd guess....although it dosen't look like anything I've ever removed. GL,YMMV

Hi CR, If really gottaa go 200 MPH, and $$ is an issue. Cheapest way would be to buy one of the high end bullet bikes. Will be dangerous, even with superior physical coordination....but couple of bikes get real close stock, with a small shot of nitrous, should be easy. Obtain your goal, count your blessings, sell the bike to get back most of the investment, come back to reality and enjoy telling the story to your grand kids of going soo fast back in 2006. I wouldn't recommend it but if you have the urge, its hard to ignore. david

............. Check a block bored with a torque plate without head or plate attached, its not round. The end result isn't the same....with or without head bolted on. Edit edit Reread the above post, you're talking about end result with Plate used only for final Honing vs. Boring and Honing.... david

No offense taken, I need to place more smiles in my posts to help with my abrupt typing. I had a engine "built" couple years back that didn't really come out the way I planned as far as power concerned, but was Bored/honed with torque plate...After dissassembling the entire engine to start over, a fellow racer and I checked bore diameters, with and without torque plate installed, seems hard to believe, but we had 2-3 thousands difference ".002-.003 inch" at same points measured. Like Zsaint mentioned, the extra power "lost" on the street not important, but on the track leaving Horsies on the table if not used. I have always assumed that plate was used for all steps of overbore and cylinder prep, I don't really know. david

Hi, I used to feel the same way. Having measured cylinder walls with plate installed and remeasuring without, quite a difference. Sorry to have confused you with my post. I have the plate, thought someone could benefit, if close by. David

Hi Guys, I'm having a 280 block bored out for my "low budget" stroker in Shelby,North Carolina. I know its hard to find a torque plate in my local machine shops for the L-series engines. If anyone is interested, Plate will be at the shop for a least a couple of weeks. Welcome to use. BTW, I have a 240 block bored 40 over free to any takers...Several years old, torque plate not used for this over bore. David

Quick note, just today I traveled from Savannah,Georgia to Rutherfordton N.C. ...280 miles ...Weekend trip with the wife to Historic Savannah, great food, interesting night life. But anyway....Altenator went out, warning light came on. Stopped by Advance auto parts to have tested...No charging going on. Made it from Roebling road raceway back into town, rode around a while before our Murano just stopped. No altenators to be found until Monday in the parts stores. We decided to buy to buy a couple of batteries. Long story short.....2 Bosch Batteries 850/650 CCA. First battery lasted close to 2 hours, stopped for gas, wouldn't crank up after fill-up, put in other battery, made it to the house. 2003 Nissan Murano will do 2 hours on new battery, without charging. I was surprised to make it home with all the electronics. We received a recall notice last year concerning the altenator,Guess we will be visting the local nissan dealership tomorrow to followup on that recall. YMMV.... david

Hi Eric, I just removed a rack from a early rust bucket, before hauling to scrap yard. It has very little to zero play, inner tierods good. I did unscrew the plastic reservoir, to use on another car. Shoot me an email at volgolf@aol.com if interested in shipping from the east coast. David

Hi Steve, If having problems finding the N-36 manifolds, give a N33 a gander....came on the 73 240Zs, other then the number cast, on top, look identical. From memory the casting number on bottom side is the same as well. Chris, Testing the polished intakes could distort results somewhat. If interested, I'd be happy to send you a untouched N-36/33 to test along side your other intakes... david

HI Mark, What kind of clearance from "top" of filters do you have from stacks? BTW I've lost the website info for the TRWs.... Car looks awesome, love that turquoise/blue interior. Gotta get down there to check out. david Spillman

Arne, I'd stick a flat top replacement piston in, with or w/out relief. Don't think it'll make much difference. I've dicussed with several fellow racers about compression ratio changes on the 73 versus 70-72 engines. Those valve reliefs and large chamber size of 73 E88 head, dropped the squezzing ratio quite a bit. Piston (73) may sit up a hair more, but should work. Keep a handle on over reving, missing shifts, fresh springs should keep those valves off the piston tops......... I'd investigate options on piston overbore sizes reasonably priced, then have block work done to see how deep a bore it takes to clean up..... david

Hi Arne, The only engines I've seen reliefs cut in pistons, are the 73 engines...with the "good" 9mm rods. I've only taken apart 3 73 engines. So YMMV When I first started racing, I discovered that new valve springs must be replaced occassionally. Weak valve springs, and over reving/poor down shifting will soon pound the same type of valve reliefs in flat tops:hurt: ......I wouldn't rule out the stock pistons, maybe a chance the block will clean up w/out overbore. Good luck with the rebuild, david

Hi Duffman, I have VIN 1222 and it had no provisions for the evaporation tank... I have often wondered at which point Datsun decided that gas fume recovery tanks were needed...Govt mandated I s'pose... I hope one of the local Gurus will shed some light. David Btw, I do have an extra in good shape. Shoot me a line if inerested...Volgolf@aol.com

The extra week of play and injuries that have came out of playing 100% to get past last 5 weeks of play is gonna make it tough. Seattle looks good as well. Mistake free for now. Fingers crossed here in the east for a few mistakes out west w/Hasselback david

Or original engine....smart to have this checked...here is a most recent thread that will help your mechanic.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19578&highlight=original+engine Good luck with your purchase david

Its confusing that same "E-88" head has at least 3 variations? 71-early 72? have chamber size and valves of E-31...with better flow then E31, or so I've heard from several sources. 72-73 240 E-88...larger chamber same valve size. 73-74 260 E-88...larger chamber, bigger exhaust valve....

Took the bathroom scales down to the barn this morning.... windsheild OEM.....255 pounds.... Aftermarket Guardian brand.....247....... Yep, I need all the help I can get to reach 2430 with me in the car....scales showed 227.5 by myself. By no means are the bathroom scales spot on. Just a good comparison. Removing 6-8 pounds off the top half of racer will make a noticable difference....the car and the driver This is fairly common knowledge in the racing community, told to me by part time sensei Katman. Being able to weigh these side by side,verifies what I've been told last few years. david

Quick note to the racers here that have to retain OEM type glass in their cars. Jmark brought out to the track this past weekend an aftermarket windsheild that was pitted from gravel from street use. Thanks Mark!! While unpacking trailer at home, handling the windsheild along side a badly cracked OEM peice, I noticed a definate difference in weight of 2 units...has to be 5-6 pounds....great place to lose a little weight, up high in the car. Swap out the OEM glass with the cheapest aftermarket peice you can find!! Good luck with your racing... David

Thanks for the pictures Mark, enjoyed the weekend. Great camera....Will be forced to paint that fender with that camera snapping away at such resolution. Looking forward to the ARRC!! David

70s with Vins <7500? or so had carby w/funny float bowl cover. But easiest ID "early 70" is the lack of drain for the bowl.... Flunked english David

Check out trackschedule.com, several HPDE dates in the southeast this fall. david

Hi Zsaint, Check fusible link at starter, I had a car stop dead in the road, looked good, but tested bad. EScanlon said: "Is the car an automatic? If so, have you checked the interlock switch in the transmission? If that's not connected, you're not going to start....period. " If the car use to be an automatic, you'll still have to jump wiring for tranny, if you retained auto wiring harness. david

HI, Give me a buzz at volgolf@aol.com. I have a couple of sets. David Spillman

Fire protection/insulation should be another consideration with attached garages. Although proper firewall construction is generally enforced by local building code, I'm sure many of you know of people who have built on to their houses without going thru the local permit process. In the event of fire, being able to isolate this event from the living area of your home, will provide valuable minutes for response from the local fire department. FWIW, David