montoya_fan01

For about $30 at Harbor Freight, you can get a press kit specifically designed for U-joints. Using it, there is no "whamming" necessary in the hole job. Press Out, Press In, Done!

No worries richard1, just don't let those shops screw you. BTW, are you sure the vibration comes from the driveline? What happens if at 90 mph, with the vibration happening, you put the trans in neutral and let off the gas? I guess what I'm wondering is if the problem could be a wheel bearing or some component other than driveshaft, or halfshaft.

There are NO INTERNALS to a drive shaft!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There are NO INTERNALS to a drive shaft. It has a splined yoke, two sets of U-joints, the shaft itself, and the yoke that attaches to the diff. That's all. If the U-joints are bad you replace them (you've been given prices for the parts & labor shouldn't be much) If the driveshaft is bent beyond repair or otherwise destroyed, you can find one in a junkyard (and replace it's U-joints), or get another new one, but I wouldn't spend anymore than $250 under any circumstances. The quote of $110 for new U-joints installed sounds like the best deal to me.

yeah, .....and maybe the world is flat, & the sun revolves around the earth. Oh, and the moon is made of green cheese too.

probably also before #2 Diesel fuel was $3.30/gal btw, ben franklin was right!

The important thing is whether the timing marks on the 72 part are in the same relative location as the one that you broke. If the marks are in a different place ............................timing the engine is going to be an "adventure". There are at least 3 different timing markers (installed in different locations) for 240z's and probably more for 280z's.

LMAO X 100,000 !!!! (and the best part of his knowledge ended up on a napkin) :pirate:

Yes. 71, 72, and 73 240's came with air pumps. Not sure about 70 models.

I looked through my stack of spare parts and it appears that the rear cylinders for 70-76 mount the same way, and then 77-78 mount differently. In my earlier post, I may not have conveyed what i meant very well, but my point was that the hard lines of a 70-72, or those from a 73-76 Zcar will not be compatible with 77-78 280 cylinders even if the backing plates were the same. You need hard lines to match the cylinders you intend to use. My spare 280Z backing plates must be from a 75-76 because they are identical to the ones on my 240.

I don't believe the backing plates are the problem, but the hard lines from the individual brake hoses to the wheel cylinders are different. The location of the fittings on the wheel cylinders is different, so the 240Z hard lines won't line up with 280Z cylinders.

even if it was sold in Ca, that doesn't mean anything. It could have stayed in CA for 1 year or 35 years but without documentation in the form of registration cards you have no way of knowing. Inspect the car and worry about it's current condition. That's what matters. CA cars CAN and do rust when subjected to the wrong conditions and poor care.

"......to someone." But IMO not to very many people. (No disrespect intended to you, sir.) I'd polish it and use it a paper weight, or put it in the back yard (wouldn't want the neighbors to know I bought it) and plant flowers in it. I can think of many better places to invest 28 thousand.

jack stands are like anything involved in working on machinery........they are only as safe as the care used and the common sense of the user. Be careful and you'd be fine. How many people use jackstands vs the # of people using rims laid flat on the floor? Not that there is anything "wrong" with using rims laid flat, but you can't do much suspension/brake work to the car if you have to keep the car's tires/wheels installed to place on top of rims laid flat on the floor as support.

I'm getting an error message. It won't open. Anybody else having a problem?

you are supposed to, but if you return the cores 5 days after you buy the calipers.....will the guy remember what you bought 5 days previously? will he care? what if a different guy is behind the counter when you return the cores?

well, I think it's a waste of time too, but guess they don't mind. Yes I have ordered a few things from them. The parts that they supplied were good.

I'd bolt them back together, take them to the parts store, and use them as cores for a rebuilt set of calipers. BAM, problem solved.

word of caution on www.nismoparts.com; just because an item is listed on their site, doesn't mean the item is actually available. You'll find that out when you contact them.

...........and your fuses. Use an Ohm-meter not your eyes to do this.

I think you are playing in the wrong sandbox for your age/iq.

The seat covers are the same for both driver and passenger seats

Replace the Front Differential Mount. The rubber sandwiched between the upper and lower metal plates of it has probably been torn apart. Common problem.

What would I do?? Not going to get into an ongoing rant about it, but after my one purchase from VB, and hearing of the problems my friends have had with VB (actually owned by Long Motor Co.), I have done vary well without them. I have bought parts from higher quality ( in terms of products and customer service) oriented companies and I have yet to find anything I need that cannot be found at another company in better quality, and with better customer service than VB. I may pay more, but I get what I pay for........ much, much more often.

VB is the Wal-Mart of Z parts. You get what you paid for (sometimes). If you are lucky