shock96

I love that clip. You can see that the Z is on the ragged edge, but what a ride! Mike

I have to agree with the others. Your best bet is complete the suspension first. I have seen some very good EP 280z's. I would think about that arena before ITS. Since the E36 has been allowed to compete, there is just no way to beat em. In EP there are many mods to be made. Better racing with more close racing. Love to see the E30's in there dicing it up. Tough to beat the RX7., but it requires a special driving technique that is hard to master. Mike

Hey Rick. Whats the compression allowed in EP? I have been arguing with a buddy of mine (325IS). His is 10:1, and I have read that Z's are allowed 12:1. That info is rather old (mine), so I was just wondering. Mike

I am pretty sure there is little difference in the weight of an L28 vs LD28 crank. Just a longer stroke. Mike

The specs for the clutch type LSD are 45lbs of torque to break away, or start acting like a regular diff. That is not much torque. You can increase that by shimming the diff, but not by much. That is why I like the Torsen/Quaife diff. You get the torque to the wheels that have traction. Mike

I think I speak for all the moderators on this site: STREET RACING IS A BAD IDEA. I have seen to many accidents and even deaths in scene over the years. After I starting going to the track, there is no way I will race on the street. Get your car prepped for the track and hit it. You will find plent of folks to race against both road racing and bracket racing. GO KICK SOME arse!! but on the track... Mike

I have a buddy running 14:1 on his GT-2 Z. Works fine on 110. 330hp at the rear wheels. Mike

What do you me SS? mike

I have never seen anything bigger than an R160 in a Subaru. I am going to check around though and see what is in the Legacy's and the SVX. My interest is piqued. Mike

Ok, here are my observations about the Z and comparisons to other cars of similar size. I find the 240Z an excellent basis for a BUDGET racer/street machine. The suspension is very simple and very strong. It is easy to modify and reacts very well to coilovers and such. The structure of the 240 leaves a bit to be desired. It is a flexible chassis made of some thin sheetmetal and it needs to be reinforced (IE: Cage). The steering is rack and pinion and it is very tough and very quick (IMHO). The short steering knuckles are nice, but not necessary. The weak point on the Z is the brakes. They can survive, but be ready to go thru pads and rotors. I am a big guy, but the Z fits pretty well in the leg department, but the shoulder room is a bit tight. Engine is bulletproof, even stock it takes a bunch to really blow it up. My other experiences on the track include the Porsche 911 and BMW 325 (E30). They are as follows: Porsche 911. Best basis for a race car if you want to make the big time. This is strictly an observation based on support and the motivation of the Porsche group. You see, amateur PCA race guys that are decent get asked to drive in the Rolex 24 and Le Mans. You don't see the Nissan guys doing that. If you are a great driver in a Z, that is what you will be. If you are a great driver in a 911, you have a chance at a few rides and more exposure. The Z guys have no backing really. They are the budget guys that have fun, but get whipped by the $60,000 GT2/EIP/SPM cars. Don't get me wrong, I love my Z and I feel that I will be a threat to the 911 guys at the PCA events I will be attending, but I am expecting to get my arse handed to me by some well prepped early 911's in RS trim. They are faster than snot in the desert around a race track. There is really nothing quite like a well done 911 on the track. 2200 lbs fighting weight, 240hp and brakes that are stronger than anything Nissan ever came out with. You might make the power (should get close), but you will never outbrake a 911 in a stock class. They can carry 10mph more into the turn and apex much later. And the engines make more torque than the Z, so they carry that speed on the exit. Handling is crisp and steady. Oversteer is a wonderful thing taken in moderation. Early 911's (1971 to 73) are a great car all the way around. But they are expensive to build. I figure that I will have about 1/2 of what I would have into a 911 in my Z. I expect to be slower though. We will see. My buddy is currently racing a 1991 BMW 325IS in EIP and SPM in conference racing. It is built to the max and it is a very fast car. The engine makes similar power to the Z. The rear suspension is more sophisicated and the brakes are better. The car gets down to about 2600lbs in fighting weight so the Z has it a little easier. The BMW club takes it's racing easy. It is not as competitive as PCA (not by a long shot. Lots of type A's in PCA) so consequently you will have less exposure. The 325's are not very competitive anymore as the E36 chassis is now used. If you managed to win some Nationals in a E30 325, you would get some attention. I hate to say it, but the fastest way to becoming a professional race car driver is to go the NASCAR route and change your name to Buck Futz and live in North Carolina. There is a proven stepping stone method to their madness and if you can stand hanging lefts all the time you might have a chance. It has many more sponsership opportunities than any other type of racing. It is not to expensive to run at first either. If you make it in NASCAR, you could then make a move to IMSA or something like that. Mike

After much consideration, I decided on the Nismo unit with the 1 5/8 primaries. They are 32" equal length headers. Very nice. I hope mine will be here soon. Got it from Strictly Z. Ask for Yuichi. Mike

Whew! Thats a tall order! $4600 will not go super far on that project, but with some frugal spending and going to this site and the others (Zcar.com and Hybridz.org) for parts, you might get ahead! Here is a list of some stuff I have bought to give you an idea of costs as I am doing something similar: Urethane bushing kit - $169 Fr and RR Swaybar set - $150 (new from member) Tokico Illumina struts - $400 (new from member) Coil Over set - $359 (Strictly Z onsale in May) Tierods and ball joints - $200 (Moog) You can count on parts for the rebuild onthe engine to be inthe range of $1000 or so, unless you go way over on the bore and have pistons made. Tack on another $600 for those. Rebuild the 5 speed around 300 in parts. LSD R200 is getting tough to find and about $600 or so used. You might need to rebuild. Brake upgrade to discs all around and 4 piston fronts with vented 300zx rotors ran me about $800 with used calipers. Now we are at $4578 and still haven't touched the body, interior, or electrical or even performance mods to the engine. I am guessing you can add another $2000 for the basics. In the end you will have a nice Z for around 6k that needs paint. Not to bad if you ask me! Good luck and keep us posted! Mike

I would not go over 2mm on the overbore unless you have an F54 280ZX block and then 3mm is possible, but I would still stick with the 2mm. You still have to get pistons for that as well. I am not sure that they make any in 88mm. You might have to have them made. 2mm is 0.80 over if I am not mistaken. If you are going to have pistons made anyway, go 2mm. What the hell! There are a ton of used engines and blocks out there if you scrap yours. Mike PS: You also increase static compression slightly with an over bore.

It all depends on the engine. If you are running a stock L24 with a good header, a Weber 40mm DCOE or Mikuni 40 PHH would be ok. The Weber will provide more topend power and the Mikuni better drivablilty and mileage. A hotrodded L28 will require Weber 45mm DCOE or Mikuni 44phh. Same rules apply. Mike

ATI makes a elastomeric type dampner for the L6 engines. They come in several different styles and weights with or without a pulley attached. They make a 7" 8lb and a 6" 5lb version with some alloy ones as well. The 2 mentioned are the most common. Any inline 6 engine has pretty good balance from the get-go, but the length of the crank causes some serious harmonics and can damage the rotating assembly in a heartbeat if thrown off. The worst damaged engines always seem to be inline 6's when they go. It is important to use studs on the mains and ARP rod bolts on the rods for regular visits to 7500 rpm. The ATI balancer helps cancel out those harmonics. Not really necessary on engines living below 6500 rpm (street). But if you plan on hitting the track much and shifting above 6500, a balancer is a good investment. BTW, the Euro pulley etc is not a harmonic dampner. It does have effect, but not in the manner of the dampner. Summit racing is selling the 7" for $415. Mike 1973 240Z (Open track monster) 1980 Euro 911 (I hope to make a deal on this one!)