mriz

Missed that post on previous searches. Thanks for the update.

The springs are already off at this point and I can't tell if they were already replaced . If the springs were ok I would rather spend the money on another area of the car.Thanks.

I don't know how old the springs are in my 77. The po did change the strut cartridges and a random bushing here and there but I just can't tell about the springs. Anyway to check by measuring ,or if I take to a tire shop will this be not worth thier effort and can they get an accurate measurment.

I did use the new gland nut but still some exposed threads compared to what p.o. had. What Arne says makes sense I ust need to protect exposed threads. Curious to see hat kyb says anyway.

I double checked and I did have the correct strut according to the recipt. A bit of a difference between front and rear for a 77. I can't belive I didn't check that anyway before I started.

Thanks , I will check.

I took out the rear shock , back end would kick out when hitting bumps.So I figure bushings and shocks are in order. I pulled out a tokico (suprise)which didn't look too old but I don't know how long it's been in there and wondering if I even needed new ones at this point.When I put the new Kyb one in I can't tighten down the retainer any further. Should I grind down cap on the bottom of the cartridge or is it ok the way it is ? Also should this cure the kick out problem or are springs in order?

No ,it's the stock piece without the bumper on yet.It covers up the space created by the length of the shocks on the bumper . Without it you would have a 4 or 5 inch gap between bumper and body. Daveinc , I cut mine off and made up new ones to weld back on .

If this is the piece you are referring to as the filler it is only held on by welded brackets. The manual calls it as the sight shield .

Close indeed. I've only spotted a couple of hls30's around Ct. but nice ones at that. Where did you find the 76? My not so rust free Z came from San diego but must have spent most of it's time at or in the marina ,so the myth of all Ca. cars being rust free is in fact a myth.

Hey Pontiacguy, just curious where in N.E. are you ?

Thought about it for a couple of days . I guess I may as well order the bushing kit and go for it all at once .(Nice job KenZ) I take it off the road in October anyway. Thanks for input.

I'm sure this is how most of us get into our projects. I had a brake light short which resulted in removal of the dash sooo while I'm at it replace heater/vacuum hoses and dash bulbs. Clean harness up and fix po's bomb squad wiring job. Remove seats to get to wires ended up re-uphoulstering (ugly wool type covers)because they were out. Also dye faded carpet at the same time ,why not. Well the consoles out so why not do shifter bushings and grease driveshaft ,replace shifter boot. Turned out the reason the fuse kept blowing was a corroded bulb connection . Glad it's done but it's ironic how many detours get taken along the way when you look back at the origional objective.

I am going to replace the strut cartridges and was wondering what other parts should be replaced such as the strut bearings before I start. The msa book left me at a loss and courtesy dosen't show anything. Also is it easier to go for the bushing kit at the same time to keep from doing things twice like usual?

Use search function and tech setcion.As far as rack bushings Bambikiller aka Carl 's method was to losen motor mounts and slightly jack up motor which worked for me. Driver side more difficult than passenger but a diy anyway.

I kind of figured it might be a Z specific part. This started out chasing a brake light short Now dash is out, seats are out , carpets out. Managed to fix a whole bunch of stuff from p.o. recovering seats as long as they are out. I guess I got caught up in the while I'm at it moment.