mriz

What might also help is to keep a spray bottle of slightly soapy water around to keep the gasket slippery and less prone to tearing as you pull on the rope . You may not need it but somtimes it can help get the rubber over the flange.

Sounds good,I just need some notice. They also opened up another Pepe's in Fairfield recently.

It might be easier and cheaper to wait for the parts at the landfill.

I replaced the rubber bushings with poly on my 77 280. It's a daily driver and the poly works fine for me. I cannot compare them to the stock rubber because I only drove the car with worn out rubber bushings in which the ride was pretty sloppy. No vibration or noise for mine.

Ok. I've been troubleshooting HVAC and found that when I test for voltage at the solinoid connector on the fender only one set of pins shows 12v with the key on.Both sets of pins do have continuity though. Can anyone verify that this is either correct or incorrect before I go and tear things apart. Thanks

I've only had my 77 for two years and the 300 about a year. I did have a couple of them in the early eighties and kept telling my wife I always wanted another one.

The check valve is not there so hopfully thats it. Thanks. First gen , I went off a diagram from hybrid z and all seem to be hooked up correctly. The lever does move when I push it so I hope it's just a missing check valve. Now to find one.

Chasing down heater probs. Door mode acuator holds vacuum when using a pump( but very hard to push opening it by hand)and all new lines,newer water valve,thermostat. manifold vac pressure is good but when running the mode acuator does not operate and only cold air at panel vent of course. Could it be the solonoids not opening or just a bad acuator ? The solonoid closer to the firewall has continuity . The other shows 12v with the key on but no continuity with key off. I don't know what else to check . 1977 coup. Thanks

Are those the 2 hoses that run up under the dash on the left hooked up to a diaphragm of some sort?I did replace those lines but have not checked the actuator if that is what the diaphragm is.I also checked the cable bottom left that works the lower doors which are ok. I guess a vacuume pump is in order.

Replaced all of the tubes which were dry rotted when I got the car. I tink my multimeter and I will have a busy day tomorrow. Thanks Steve

My 77 now only blows out of the center vents. I took the dash apart replaced all vacuum lines and checked cables. How do I continue to trouble shoot what is probably a vacuum / solinoid /diaphragm (bottom of blower motor) problem?

Parts are mostly kept in the basement, garage,pantry.........

To me the solstice took some cues from the 53 corvette espically in the front end. Not a bad idea but thats what it reminds me of. But they called it a solstice and will sell it for what it is whch is good. Now of the charger, even Richard Petty must lie awake at night wondering how Dodge came to that conclusion. The 350Z , change it to a 503A and I'm ok with it. I guess what I'm getting at that bothers me is don't sell on name recognition when we can't recognize it. Call it somthing else and let your design speak for itselfe instead of hiding behind the name.

The only thing I can add because I just went through an idle problem (corrected with Steve's help)is to do the pin tests on the ECU connector from the FSM. Some tests cover the injector circuit,cold start valve ect.. Kept me from chasing parts.Hope it helps.

Just keep in mind you are dealing with a franchise operation and do some checking on the guy who is actually doing the work.How long has he been doing it ,and of course get references . Treat it as if he is doing 4K of work on your Z. The parent company is sound ,thier main HQ is close by my house and the origional founder still runs it.

Would have gotten a zzzap and a black pearl. Also would have shown up at the Z assembly plant with a few cases of seam sealer and let the boys have at it.

Glad to hear there is a local shop for Z's. Good luck with your project.

I think you also have to consider soil type, but curtian drains might be an option. Also make sure the grade of the soil slopes away from the house along with any water from the roof.

Sorry to hear about the situation, never easy when a family member is not well. I say take the little guy out for a treat and give him somthing you normally wouldn't give him and enjoy the day.

It's only illegal if someone complains!

I just don't like the fact I can hardly tell the difference between the Infinity whatever it's called, the Audi and the 350. I think they should have put some hint of the S30 into the Z32 and let it evolve that way.I'm partial to those designs though. They shot for the right demographic group 35-55 yrs old who drove the origional Z . Making an educated guess there. But missed with the style in my opinion . I think it is a nice car but when you put a Z on it that changes everything.

Currently working on the same problem. There is info on EFI on the cd and you can download the EFI file from Atlantic Z. Check the air regulator and run the diagnostic tests on the ecu connector. Grab a multimeter and welcome to my world.

My EFI harness has some issues like no voltage at air reg connector and a couple other failed pin tests.Relay checks out so I figure it's a wire problem. I've been chasing this for a few weekends and feel it's time for another approach.Is it worth buying a used harness or try and build another .Or the other option of cut/splice the promlem areas? Thanks

What is the proper procedure for checking the voltage where the harness plugs into the air regulator? I turned the key on hooked up the ecu , set the voltmeter to 20v dc and I get no voltage reading but I do have continuity in the circuit. Should the car be running for voltage check? The air regulator gives 60ohms but no continuity and flunks pin test so need a new one of those. Any ideas would help before I pull out the fuel pump relay.Thanks