san_maru_zed

Hmmm, sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I am wondering if any afficiandos out there know what datsuns(and motors) were sold in central america? I am from Australia but have been spending a bit of time over here, and have noticed all sorts of weird and wonderful datsuns around. I am wondering if anyone knows if the L28D(and even L14 for that matter..) was common down here or not? We have none in Australia, and I know you guys in the states have a few. I doubt anyone has much info on this, but you never know... Ray

Got my car running and its going really well. Idles beautifully, doesnt hesitate and revs smoothly all the way through. I've been taking it for a couple of blats lately and whenever I pull the plugs they come out white. So Im guessing I need to run it a bit richer. Any Idea how I can do this? Keep in mind Im running an L24 ECU and L24 greentop injectors on an L28 (should I try switching to L28 injectors ?). Is there something in the AFM I should adjust ? Cheers Ray

Thanks, I'll give that a go. Out of curiousity, why do you think the TPS may have gone bad ?

As per my first post, there is nothing wrong with the injectors. I have also changed the fuel since I left it sitting as well

Hello all. I'm having trouble getting my 260z started. Its got an L28E in it with L24 ECU and wiring (relatively similar to an L28E ecu, but not the same) It was working fine 6 months ago when I stored it away. I went to start it again and it wouldnt start. Here's what happened. Everynow and then (only sparingly), I could get it to idle, but as soon as I revved it to about 2k or so it died. This continued on for a couple of hours as I tried to start it. Whenever I revved it a bit a puff of black smoke would come out and it would die. I went back a week later and nothing, it wouldnt even do that or kick over. Got out the noid lights and sure enough they were not pulsing. I checked the Earth from the coil to the ECU and thats fine, and the injector leads are both getting power. If I connect the earth from the coil directly to the injector wires coming out of the ECU they will pulse, of course not at the right time, but it shows that there is nothing wrong with the physical lines to the injectors. Tried to start it and it kicked a few times from all the fuel that had been poured in. Power and earth to the ECU is fine as well. Any ideas on what could be stopping injectors from being switched ? Cheers Ray EDIT: Oh and I have tried it with another ECU, although weather this ECU is anygood or not Im not sure as it came from a wrecker.

Almost 5 years since my 260z was last registered.....

For the block deck, just use a razor blade (no not the type you shave with).

When lining distributor shaft in the oil pump, be careful not to line it up 180 degres the wrong way. Thats what I did. It was no big deal as I just dlipped the leads on the dizyz cap to compensate. Best to do it correct from the start though.

Much Appreciated.

Just wondering if these old kits are anygood ? Before you throw up your hands and say "just drop in an L28ET", they are not availible here in Oz. Are these kits still good bang for the buck or are they too outdated ? Ray

After not being running for about 4 years my 260 has had a 5spd conversion, and a rebuilt F'injected L28 transplatented into her, and goes strong. Unfortunately right at the moment I have nowhere to park her(nowhere secure anyway), so she is sitting in a garage a long way away and collecting dust again

Yeah, could be the same one. Was just interested in weather or not 2mm of intake valve would make that much difference.

Thanks for the link. Actually my head is the same combustion shape as the P90. Before I put my head on the block I had my mates P90 beside it, exactly the same chamber design except his obviously had a larger CC. Looks like it might be worthwhile changing those valves afterall. Ray EDIT: Maybe I've confused some ppl. The head is a Skyline E88 head which is the same as your Maxima P79(or is that N47?) head except the E88 has square exhaust ports.

I have got an L28 block in my 260z with the standard dished pistons. However the head is the smaller(40cc) E88 closed chamber with L24 valves (pretty sure it has 42mm intake vales, vs 44mm for the L28). The engine is otherwise a standard L28 with EFI. The engine is rebuilt and has only done about 100km. She goes pretty well, and I've always had it on the cards to put the L28 sized valves in, just wondering though if ,from people's experience, weather it is really worth it and if they noticed a difference? Ray

Not sure, the previous owner bought it. I have the receipt somewhere, that would show who it was purchased thorough

My Zed got a new bonnet put on it about 5 years ago, was about $700 or thereabouts

ouch, thats a bit more expensive than I thought they would be but I guess I need one nonetheless. Ray

You mean two different types between L6's? Your not referring to the 2 spade connector type in the 280zx and the single bullet type connecter in the earlier ones are you ? Ray

I bought another Oil pressure Sender for my L28 the other day, as the one that was on it was the 2 spade connector type, and my 260Z has wiring for a single bullet type connector. I hooked it all up, and when I turn on the Ignition the oil pressure needle swings to the very far right (i.e high pressure), and then once the car is going swings right back down to no oil pressure, it doesnt change when Im driving either. Im 95% sure there is no problem with oil pressure (I just rebuilt the engine and replaced everything that needed replacing). Could the Unit I bought from supercheap be suspect? It doesnt have a big bell shaped attachment on it like all the others I've seen on Z cars. Anyway to test the gauge itself ? Ray

Yep, use the ones in the foreground, not the backgrund. And yes, do fix that clunky rear end. I had one with an Auto, that was bad enough.

Whatever you do dont use the ones with the integral float bowls....

Thanks LanceM. Turned out my problem was that I had a chassis earth at - coil (didnt realise I wasnt supposed to...). TomoHawk, that sounds like it would be a very nice setup, a little more sophisticated than my Pencil tester :nervous:

With a test pencil, the wire coming into the ECU from the coil is flashing, but the wire at the injector is not

OK I have spark now, and I have fuel pressure at the injectors. But They dont seem to be opening. The spark plug does not smell like fuel, and I cant feel them clicking. I checked and there is curernt going to both wires of the injector. Any ideas ? Cheers

Hmmm, ok. My manual has a big resistor on it (for an R30 skyline, same(sorta) engine though). Just trying to find out about the wire going from the - coil to the ECU and weather it goes through a ballast resistor or not