san_maru_zed

Will this work with a normal test pencil. I have the same problem (except none are firing), I have voltage going to both wires of the injector, and when I test with the pencil it just sort of dims on and off

I need to know weather there is a wire going from - of the coil to the ballast resistor on a 280zx. Cheers.

Just wanted to clear up a few questions I had relating to proper coil operation. When the key is on "ON" but the engine not going, power should be going into the + of the coil. Should current flow between the + and - of the coil without the engine on? Should it flow between the + of the coil and the chassis ? When the Coil is firing the current between the + and - of the coil should be "pulsating" right? Thanks, just trying to sort out why my car has no spark (distributor and coil are fine).

I bought some FTO seats quite a while back complete with rails and everything to fit into my 260z. I only just finished fitting the first one the other day. It was quite a lot of work (not for me, my dad did just about all of it) but the results are great, they are soooo much better than the standard items. We had to do away with the orignial FTO rails altogether as they are just far too wide, build a new frame for the seats and also attach the seat back to the frame (the back is normally attached to the rails, not the seat bottom). As they are now they only _just_ fit, as they are very wide up top, and wide down the bottom. Have done away with the standard seatbelt guide on the B pillar and will just put the seatbelt through plastic guide on the FTO seat. With this setup, the seat only barely reclines without hitting the pillar. Now that the passenger seat is done its just a matter of copying to same setup for the drivers, so it should be much much easier. If I were to do it again I would possibly consider smaller seats that are more at home in the zed (maybe FD RX7 seats?) but I'm very happy with these seats nonetheless.

If you only rev it to 6500RPM and are running it on fuel from your local servo, than its not a purpose built racing engine. Just to give you some idea, There was a Japanese L28 engined drag car that made 330ps. Yes it was 3.1L, but it gives you some sort of perspective as to the potential (if you have $$) of a purpose built L series. But like everyone says, what you are getting sounds about right. I would be very happy if my L28 made anything near that.

I dont know if there would be a whole lot more to get out of it. I have not built up nor dynoéd several L28s, but from what I have seen and experienced those numbers look about right(for a stree engine, not a full house race motor). Gav240z, what makes you think that there is something "holding it back¨ ?

After trying to fire my car up for the first time I think my ign module may also be toast. No spark from coil at all. Might go hunting through the wreckers next weekend and see what I can come up with.

I have an EFI setup with a electronic distrbutor. Im not getting any spark from the coil, There is power going right through the primary circuit (in and out of the coil), but no spark. Could it be a problem in the distributor? Im not too familiar with electronic distributors, so not sure what oculd be wrong. I did notice that the reluctor point and the pickups are not evenly spaced i.e its as if the shaft with the reluctor points has been shifted off centre to one side and as the reluctors spin around they run closer to the pickups on one side. Could this be the reason why the coil is not creating spark...any ideas of what I can test ? Cheers Ray EIDT: the whole system was grafted onto a 260z

wow, that looks like a lot of work, good luck

wal280z, my wiring is all over the shop. The engine was from an R30 skyline which had previously had an L24E in it. The wiring was far from complete when I got it. The closest wiring diagrams I can find that match the ECU are an L24E. I have pretty much finished the wiring of everything, just now finishing splicing it into my 260z wiring. when looking where to wire the cable in qustion, I cam across a wire that the previous owner had installed and it was labelled "constant power", well that was good enough for me, and where it was situated made it quite easy to wire in. Hopefully when I go to start it (hopefully within the next 12 hours), everything wont blow up, as Im not even 100% what kind of ECU I have...Im guess making an educated guess !

Im hooking up an EFI system in a 260z. On my L28E diagram it shows the power for a relay coming from a fusable link. The relay is not physically in the engine bay and I am not going to run a wire out to the physical fusable link. Which wire would be best to wire it to? The white power wire that goes into the voltmeter, or the white/red one which comes out of the voltmeter and goes to my alternator. Does it really matter ? Cheers

The water inlet has three hoses on it. The one from the radiator, the heater core, and another smaller one. Where does this go to on a FI engine. I know on a carburreted car where it goes (to the inlet manifold to warm the incoming air), not sure about on the FI car though. Cheers Ray

MY alternator seems a bit different to the ones you guys are talking about. On the "T" connector on the Alternator, it only has one spade, and that is for the yellow. So I can plug my original T connector from my 260Z into the back of the alternator, but only the yellow one is actually plugging into anything. Does this mean that I only have to bridge the yellow wire and can just leave the White/Black wire alone ?! Cheers

At the risk of sounding gay...how about a 205 GTI ?

There was/is, its a family sedan called the VL

Ed, thats exactly what mine said. Mine were 9mm though, dont know if that would make a difference or not...

If I were you I would just go into a place that sells them and copy thier design. I dont think you need and specific dimensions. My engine stand was just welded together from metal lying around. If I was to do it again though (which will probably happen) I will make it a bit more sturdier. Out of interest I found a cool book all about fabricating tools and equipment for a race car shop...cant remember the name off the top of my head.

One of my mates use to have one actually. It was just a SR20DE though. Not a bad car, I just think that there are so many of them over here, and so many of them are trash. I remember going to an auction and the shittiest cars I could find were the old S13's which had been flogged to within an inch of their life.

Thanks Ed, I would appreciate that. Out of interest, I was looking at some 280ZX wiring. One was an early (79 ro so) and one was a 82 or so. The early one (which had recirculating ball steering btw) had about 5 or so pins missing from the ECU. The later one had only two pins missing (1 & 4 IIRC), which is the same as the L24 and mine....

But we can still import S13's can't we!? I dont think even god himself could stop the plague of those pussboxes from reaching our fair shores....(sorry any S13 owners)

I have gotten my hands on a couple of different 280z wiring schematics (US), and an R30 L24E skyline schematic. My ECU and harness seems a lot more similar to the L24E one, the main difference being that all the wire colours are different and other minor differences. Definately not similar to any L28E I have seen both in person nor in wiring diagram. Anyway, the two main components I was missing was the EFI relay, and the fuel pump relay. These are both 4 pin relays. I have wired them into the loom and all that is left to do is hook up a couple of wires to the ignition,fuel pump and some earths. On another note, I have modified my std fuel pump bracket to accomodate a High pressure pump and a surge tank. Not sure if I will try cramming it all on the one side or if I will mount the surge and high pressure pump on either sides of the bracket. The photo has the std lift pump and the high pressure pump. Im yet to get my hands on the surge tank, but would like to keep it to around 600ml for size reasons (would this be big enough?).

Is it some years of the R32 GTR can be imported or none at all? The car was sold locally, but not for the whole run of the R32 series...cant remember if that made a difference or not.

Im no expert but it sounds very plausible. I grabbed the brown relay from in front of the battery just in case I needed it. Don't seem to have a place to connect it to though.... My AFM wires have been cut from the main loom so no idea where they are gonna wire into :-S I've got the worst feeling that I am either going to have to get schematics for my ECU (anyway to tell which series the ECU it is?) from somewhere and check/rewire the thing, or pull another loom from a comeplete car. I really want to have this thing up and running within a few weeks and as I only have weekends to do it Im gonna have to pull my socks up. I will have a better idea after this weekend though, so I wont panic until after then.

AussieZed, that sounds like something dodgy I would do cheers for the idea.

ecp48, thanks for that, my wiring should be a post 79 (no fi system sold here prior to that). Will have to take another closer look at the loom. from what I recall though, there was one relay on the loom, and no plugs for any more relays in the engine bay.... HKSZ, cheers, I will just hook em up any which way I can then. AFAIK it is an L28 ECU