tomb

My 1972 dome light lens shattered when I pushed it. There must be others with this problem. I could only find the entire unit for about $90. I'm in for a lens.

I had a crapped out old stut, and the hatch fell down on it's own every time I opened it. I carried a stick to hold it up. After I installed a new hatch strut I bought form Oliver at Zspecialties, I had to really push to get it closed. And it takes very little effort to get it to pop up on its own. All you need is a new strut. I can't believe i waited so long. Tom

OK, thanks. I think I'll just rebuild mine, as it's in decent shape. Got a bid on the lockset though:)

Will this long pig tail fuse block work in a 1972 240 that uses the short tail box? Tom

Funny, but sadly true:mad:

Just remeber what Fred Puhn said in his book, How to Make Your Car Handle: braking in corners is an advanced racing skill, or something like that:) Tom

You must use metric sockets. 10, 12, 14 are the most common.

Good on ya. My son sat in the garage watching, and helping me with a 240, since he was 8. He just took over the car, and drove from the West Coast to Ontario. 5,000k. He made it in 5 days, with help from this forum, and some great Z people. Oregon is great, lot's of hilly winding roads. Have fun. Tom

Yes, a great thread. I didn't realize it's age until the end. This addesses the same issues I'm faced with on my new project, including starting after many months, and smog or desmog. Thanks.

Just remember I drove it a lot for several years, from sea level to 2000 ft, with no issues. It sat and was started intermittently. Then you just drove over the Rockies without an issue. So something happened over the last hour of driving. It can't be a jetting issue, althjough I'm sure they could use tweaking despite this problem. I can't imagine the carbs went seriously out of sync, but maybe. I suspect if carbs are the problem, it's dirt or something. Especially since grime from the tank accumulates slowly in the HPG-1 filter. It's easy to check the filter on the carbs without taking them off, and without removing anything else. As you look down onto one of the carbs, look beside the cover that is fastened with the butterfly nut. Look for a cap nut just above where the fuel line connects. It's under that cap nut. There may be one inside where the fuel line is screwed on. So, talk to Jim, he probably has more idea's. Do that b4 you tinker with the carbs. Can't thank you enough Jim I'm off to Vancouver today to look at a new "rust free" 72 240 from Arizona, time to start over:) I'll be on my cel 604 966 8974 Tom

Thanks so much. I pmd Jim for a number. I am at tomb@uniserve.com . Here is some more background. The fuel filter is a large Fram HPG-1 that can be spun off and cleaned. He did that. Althoug the replaceable filter inside it has not been changed in years. The fuel tank was renewed by some company that gives a warraty for life. Yet little bits of sand like stuff always built up in the filter. I washed them out regularly. So has he. I replaced all the fuel lines 10 years ago, and it ran fine taday. There is a fuel pressure regulater. It may be clogged. The Mallorry pressure gage on it was a bit rusty, worn out. He replaced it today. I rebuilt the webers from a kit 8 years ago. They ran fine. But they sat for a long time before this trip. My son, Tommy, took off the air filters. They were filthy. He says he cleaned them up really well. Tommy and I both suspect a fuel delivery problem. He just filled with 91 octane, but Mark Sayer always told me to use 92. I guess it could be bad fuel though. Yes, I think there could be an issue inside the carbs: dirt, clogged/stuck float valve, something in the float chamber. If Tommy is shy about money, I will fund any new parts/labour. What a great forurm. I have browsed for years. Thanks for your help. Tom

M son is driving from BC to Ontario in a 240z with 10,000miles on a rebuilt L28 triple webers. 280 distributor, xr700/PS92 ignition. Fuel pressure is 3.5 psi. It ran fine for 12 hours to Calgary, in heavy rain. Now , without any load, sitting in the driveway, he says it sounds perfect at idle, and it revs up high just fine. But as soon as he tries to let the clutch out to drive, it stumbles, coughs, won't develop power. It then tries to rev up and go, then stumbles again. At high RPMs it will go, but not up a hill. It will not maintain power up a hill, or under load. He noticed a spark plug wire came off, and another lost the connector end, but that was fixed, and the problem remains. Is there anyone in Calgary who I could send him to, mechanic or enthusiast. Will pay cash. Or any advice is appreciated. This was my long term project/rebuild, that I put tons of time and money into. I donated to him as he is getting married. I ran it daily for a couple years. Then it sat for several years, and was run every couple months. But it ran fine for 10+ hours today over the Rockies. Thanks for any advice. Tom

looking for help please, I searched for hours with no luck. My 1972 240 with HI-6 spark box P92 coil and 280z distributor worked perect for many years. Now it won't start. No spark at the plugs. The HI-6 staus light does not turn on and off when cranking. This is suposed to mean no input trigger from the distrubtor. A mechanic said it's the HI-6 box gone bad (it's been in an area that gets moist/damp for some of the year). But before I replace it, I would like to make sure the distrubtor is not the problem. So is there a way to test if it's sending a trigger pulse from the pick-up coil? How do I take it's pulse:) Tom

I have triple Webers, and am looking at replacing the linkage both on the firewall (too sloppy), and on my cannon manifold. For the gas pedal to firewall, I came across this Optional Cable Linkage Conversion for either manifold. Eliminates the mechanical linkage from the pedal to the carb linkage. Add $75.00 to kit price http://www.racetep.com/ztripdcoe.html I have no idea how it works, but if you could just pull and save the stock linkage, it might be worth a try. Tom