ChrisA

Thanks Mark. Now we'll see who picks it apart. Chris A.

Yes common swap on the small valve heads. Can't answer about the flow or velocity suffering though. Most folks who go the big valve swap also port and polish the intake manifolds as well. So that really changes the variables. Chris A.

Good question, I doubt it. It would screw up the location of the lobes on the cam I'd think. I dont have any heads off except a E31 right now or I'd check. I'd think the distance between the valve's OD is probably farther apart on a E31 than say a N47. Chris A.

Ummm....you said you bought a N66 head. But you posted pics of N33 and E31. Where's the pics of the N66? This is the best I can do for you.... BORE AND STROKE COMBINATIONS FOR L ENGINES HEAD # VOL. C.C. INT VALV. EX VALV. EXH. PORT PROD. DATE E31 42.4 42 33 square ex 10/69-7/71 E88 44.7 42 33 square ex 9/71-7/72 N33 47.8 42 33 square ex 8/72-7/73 N33/P50 47.8 42 35 square ex 8/73-8/74 N42 44.6 44 35 square ex 9/74-7/77 N47 44.6 44 35 round ex 8/77-3/78 P81 44.6 44 35 round ex 2/79-6/80 P79 53.6 44 35 round ex 7/80- P90 53.6 44 35 square ex 12/80-7/82Turbo P99 53.6 44 35 square ex 8/82-Turbo Hyd Again, I find no N66 anywhere. And I've looked. Chris A.

I was waiting for that response. I've never heard of such a head. How about some pictures of said beasty. Chris A.

Hi Scott, $28/can at my shop. The scary part is R134A is going up as well. $14 for a one pound can. Not that long ago it was $3.00 a can. Like Stephen, we use a 30 pounder and a reclaimer machine. Saves any charge left in the system for re-use. Tips for recharging? If you're sure there are no leaks in the system, you can get a can tap from the Snap-On, Matco, or other tool truck that happens to be in your area. If you have access to a black light or leak detector kit, you can put some dye in the system and check it out. I've enclosed a picture of the side-tap I use when I need to use the one pound can. Do you have any service manuals? They have good A/C info in them. Much luck, Chris A.

Hi Kent, I'm not in Iowa but pretty close. If you PM me the contact info, I'd be glad to call them for you and see if I can help. Chris A.

Hi Don, Well having done this myself, the extra hole shouldn't cause a problem unless its drilled through into the head. I don't think they are though. Just leave it empty. Using the gasket for a carbed engine is fine also. I put a the stock carb setup from a 72 on a 76 engine and it all worked for me. No surprises. Have fun, Chris A.

Robert, Call Z Therapy at 503-587-9800 or email at tech@ztherapy.com subject=Technical Question They may be able to help you even though they deal with the round top carbs mostly. Much luck, Chris A.

You're welcome, hope it works and glad I could help sort-of. Chris A.

Hmmmm.....well, if I recall correctly, the nut I got from Courtesy Nissan had a pretty defined edge opposite the hex that really pushed down on the sending unit. And the sending unit had a raised ridge in the middle or so of the its body. I remember thinking it was a pretty simple bit of engineering. Do you think if you tightened it down a little more that might help? I'm running out of suggestions. The nut wasnt out of round at all do you remember? Its a pretty thin cross section. Keep at it, you'll get it. Chris A.

Hi bartman, Umm, the thread size and pitch on the "Nissan" sending unit is more than likely metric. The hole in your V8 is likely to be standard "americanized" pipe thread. That could potentially cause the leak. Unless the threads are exactly the same or darn close. Hi zhead240, The answer to your question is "no". I use both in my garage. And they are completely different compounds. The anti-seize is a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants in a petroleum base made to do what it says. Keep materials from bonding, rusting, seizing to each other. The thread sealant is a polymeric paste/lubricant with teflon and polyvinyl resins. Oh yeah, Castor Oil!! Use the anti-seize on bolt assemblies, use the thread sealer on connections that carry water/oil/air, sometimes gas, but gas will eat it under direct contact. FWIW, Chris A.

Hey bartman, Are you installing the stock sending unit on the V8? I installed a new one from Courtesy Nissan and with a little thread sealant at the hex end of the nut. Mine sealed just fine. Too much sealant and you might lose the ground connection. No sealant and its sure to leak. At least at my house anyway!

Use either flywheel, but get the matching clutch. I'm trying to find the different sizes for you right now. I found a good thread by searching for "Flywheel Differences". You could go there and read it. I keep finding references to 225mm and 240mm. The 2+2 being the larger one. You will need to make sure you get the correct combination of release bearing and release arm for the setup you're using to. Again, a search of the forums will help you a bunch. Chris A.

From 26th-Z himself from a different thread.... 240Z/260Z/280Z G H L S30 ##### Blank = Coupe G = 2+2 H = L24 for 240Z R = L26 for 260Z H = L28E for 280Z L = Left Hand Drive Blank = Right Hand Drive S30 = Car model ##### = serial number So can you tell us what the serial number is on the car you're looking at? Someone here may know of it. Chris A.

HLS30 is a "general" term for the model designation of the cars that came to North America. 26th-Z has cars with serial numbers 26 and 27 versus mine which is newer at 156693. There are MANY variations on the "S30" chassis depending on where in the world the car itself was to be delivered. 1200 sounds like a good deal if its not too rusty. Its a unibody car. Good luck with your decision. Chris A.

Ooops, never mind.

Amen, and some good shelving to put all the parts on when you inevitably take the car apart or start buying large amounts of spares!! :stupid: Chris A.

Pawn shops are a great place to get tools secondhand. I have a huge collection and most is flea market and pawn shop stuff. You'd be surprised how many folks have to pawn their high dollar Snap-On tools. And I now have them. I highly recommend investing in a Mity-Vac or similar tool for one-person brake bleeding. I was lucky enough to find a complete set up slightly used. Complete with a feeder bottle for the master cylinder. Very handy. I also suggest a set of hose pinch clamps. When you have to rebuild or replace a caliper or wheel cylinder, you can clamp off the rubber brake line and keep almost all of the fluid in the system. If you've got SS lines then thats another issue. FWIW, Chris A.

NOOOOOOOO!!!!! The Buick is killer. I would have kept that. Welcome anyways. Chris A.

I spoke with Carl's Mom today. She said it was a heart attack. He was with a friend mid week and the friend had dropped back by the house later in the week and found him. We spoke a little about his enjoyment of the Z car and I told her that he was very helpful to many people on and off this site regarding their own Z's. She seemed glad to hear that he was helpful. I'm not sure I could ease her pain much but I tried. Even as a parent myself, I can't imagine what losing a child must be like. Carl's request for donations to the Humane Society stems from having had a strong love of cats. He always had one or two and just this year had to put one of his oldest ones to sleep which pained him greatly. He even took in the occasional stray when he could manage it. I know that many of the members here were sometimes taken aback by his strong personality. I was at first. I guess he and I became friends because we're a lot alike. Carl often came across as a "know-it-all" but that was just Carl. He strove for perfection in everything "240Z". As some of you have mentioned, he had a vast amount of knowledge about the car. It may surprise some of you, but last April when my Dad died, Carl was extremely caring and supportive. We talked at long length about the effect losing a parent has on an individual. I learned a lot about the man. And it was all good. I salute his military service, his devotion to his Mother, his expertise with Z cars and his compassion towards animals. I will sorely miss him. The older brother I never had. I just wish I'd known him longer. Peace, Chris A.

Hello everyone, It is with extreme sadness that I tell you that Carl (Bambikiller240) died in his home June 16th. I talked to him regularly on the phone and via email and hadnt heard from him for quite awhile. Today I found this on google after I decided to look for him in the obits. "Carl Herbert Stahlnecker Carl Herbert Stahlnecker died June 16, 2006 at his home in Pleasanton. He was 54. The Livermore native had lived in Pleasanton for 54 years. He served in the U.S. Navy. Carl was a sports car enthusiasts. He is survived by his mother, Gloria Stahlnecker, of Pleasanton; bothers Paul Stahlnecker and Brian Stahlnecker, a sister Annette Stahlnecker, and a nephew Scott Stahlnecker. He was preceded in death by his father, Elwood Stahlnecker. Services and burial will be private. Contributions in Carl Stahlnecker’s memory may be made to the Valley Humane Society, 273 Spring St., Pleasanton, CA 94566. Arrangements by Graham-Hitch Mortuary." So long Carl, may you rest in peace. Chris Abbott

Hi Al, Price...well. Now it becomes sticky. Me personally, I'd tell him to keep all the V8 stuff and offer him $1500 to $2000 for the chassis and ALL associated Z parts. If he wants you to take the V8 stuff I'd let him know firmly that you're interested in keeping it "Nissan", that you could buy a higher VIN numbered car if you wanted a V8 conversion. If he knows Z cars, he knows that the low VIN number could get him more money. BUT, if he's sat on this for years and is tired of looking at it, I'm a betting man that he'd take a lower price to see it off his property. I really hope you can make it happen. I live in the rust belt and most of the 240Z's here are late 72's and 73's. I paid $2200 in 1995 for the car you see in my avatar. Exactly the way it looks except for the wheels and tires. The guy knew Z cars but just didnt have a place for it in his life anymore. So I snatched up a rust free example and I'm glad I did. Keep us appraised on the deal Al. Chris A.

Hi Al, Those new pictures look pretty good to me. Darn good if I do say so myself. I'd be all over that car like glaze on an Easter ham if I could. The small hole picture is indeed just missing a plug. Aside from surface rust I see no severe damage at all but there are other areas to be concerned about. Looking in behind the steer tires at the lower frame rails is the first place I always look. Right where the rail meets the firewall. Also the inner fender below the battery support is another rust prone area. So far though the car looks sound. Knock his price down due to the fact its a basket case and get her to your house. Chris A.

Yup. I was loyal from the git-go. Even with all the Z33 and G35 info, I never waivered in my love of "Z". I'm a Nissan/Datsun person in general so maybe the new publication will hold my attention as well. We'll see.