ChrisA

Besides being a Z nut, that's why I'm here. Chris

Used to be a piece of crap called Autocar. :tapemouth Chris

Carl said "stiffy"! Chris Arguing about politics is like wrestling a greased pig, sooner or later you realize the pig likes it!

Geez, I blew that one all to hell. Yes, phillips head screws hold the headlight bucket to the fender. Studs hold the front fender extension(sugar scoop) to the main fender. Guess I should have read the first post more carefully. Chris

Hey Mick, I'm not a fan of American V8 swaps but if I had the resources I'd love to do your 4.4 V8 Nissan swap. I'd only do it because I have a complete shell with no motor that needs a lot of work. I'd never buy a clean car from a chicken shed and hack it up. We all know what I'm talking about. :stupid: I like Nissan power in Nissan's. If it was good enough for the 280ZX IMSA Car with the President V8, it would be good enough for me. :devious: Chris

The quote at the bottom of Carl's post. Chris

Dose those little studs with penetrating oil. I broke several off and it wasnt fun fixing that mess. 26thZ is right on--8mm socket to get the nuts loose. A flashlight with a magnetic strap works well under the fender. Even in bright daylight its tough to see up under there. I obtained some small 8mm bolts and tack welded them in for the ones I broke. Dab of antiseize on them at re-assembly. Chris

Very good idea John. Been done to many a Z car. I have the parts to do it, just not the time. :ogre: Chris

Congratulations Sean, my nine month old wants an R34 GTR!! And congrats to you too Will, hope everything goes well. Chris

Hey John, do have any salvage cars near you? Cheaper test than buying a new regulator right away. If a used one clicks then we're back to square one. I may be all wrong on this, but I once read somewhere that the electronic voltage regulators sold at the auto parts stores arent worth a damn. Its best to get one like the originals that had the twin relays in them. I'll keep checking things for you. Chris

Put the V8 in the Scion, give the Z to me. Chris

Hey John, I'm not real familiar with 280Z wiring but I didnt think there was supposed to be a wire from the alternator to the battery. On a 240Z, there is the main wire to the amp gauge, and a two wire connection to the voltage regulator. You have a volt gauge instead of amps but yours should be the same. You said the wire goes from alt to batt, but then you asked if the yellow wire goes somewhere other than the regulator. Where exactly does this yellow wire start and stop right now? The regulator could be bad even though it looks new. I'm stumped as to why it clicks when you hook up the battery. I have a 280Z manual at home, I'll look at it tonight and see what I can find. Chris

Me too kind of, I ripped that FI system off and chucked it so fast I never really paid much attention. I made my assumption based on my 240SX. My own experience with this swap was pretty good. The exhaust system was the only trouble. The exit angle of the L28's exhaust manifold is slightly different than that on a L24 and I had purchased an exhaust system from VB for a 280Z. But when I tried to bolt the down pipe to the manifold it hit the lower edge of the firewall where it bends under and goes back towards the rear. I then decided to just take the car to an exhaust shop and let them do it. If I'd had a pipe bender I could have done the whole swap myself. :laugh: FWIW, Chris

The 280Z fuel pump will be too high pressure and I thought it was in the fuel tank on 280's. You can definitely use the L28's exhaust manifold. You'll just have to go the exhaust shop and have a new down pipe made to hook to your 240's exhaust. You only need to use the L24's intake system. Here's some bad pics of my aftermarket fuel pump and regulator. Chris

Hey Ty, I might not be correct in this but here goes. If you put carbs on the L28 and it DOESNT have the hole for the mechanical fuel pump, then you'll have to use an aftermarket regulator with an aftermarket pump UNLESS the electric pump has very low pressure like around 4-5 psi. The regulator for the injectors on the L28 is mounted in the end of the fuel rail I thought. It will not work with carbs. Fuel injection uses very high fuel pressure which would flood your carbs if you could use the L28 regulator which you cant. If your head has the hole in it for the mechanical pump and has the eccentric on the camshaft then just mount a stock mechanical pump in that location. You'll have to re-route the fuel lines to feed the pump and up to the fuel rails you'll use from the L24. My electric pump is mounted back by the fuel tank. It is a pusher type pump versus puller. I have seen aftermarket electric pumps mounted under the hood but they would need to be puller type pumps. Hope this make sense. Ask more questions if it doesnt. Chris

Not that this matters but my old 79 310's keys would work in every lock on my 77 200SX. They were the typical Nissan USA key, cut on both sides. Looked just like Z keys except for the earliest American Z's which somebody mentioned were cut on only one side. Chris

Chris

The silver dog is $50.00, the gold dog is $70--how many would you like Carl? :laugh: Chris Oh, you'd be amazed how many people around here have them on their pickups!! :stupid:

Hey All, I know this will shock some of the purists but I put a Mack Truck water valve in my 72. It works good and matches up with the stock cable. Part number is 25mf213. Costs around $13. Chris Here's a pic.

Hey Ty, If the motor mounts look bad to you, change them. Wouldnt hurt if you can work them into your budget. And congrats on your upcoming wedding, I wish you all the best!! Hey Carl, you have a Fel-Pro(Blow) failure? Tell me about it please. Should I be leery? I have run them since 83. Never had a problem. I dont use their head gaskets if that what you're implying. I usually use Nissan head gaskets. Chris

I actually thought of that but I didnt want to pull the head off to clean out all the alloy bits. Stuff it and run it!!! Chris

Hey 240ZX, here's some pics of my N47 with the fuel pump hole not drilled out for the pump. Interesting that the holes are drilled and tapped but the pump arm hole isnt. Chris

Here we go again. :disappoin Chris

Hey Ty, The L28 conversion is very easy. If the L28 doesnt have any oil leaks just stab her in there. If it's got a pan gasket leak or front or rear main leak, now's the time to fix it.a You'll want to buy an upper gasket set for switching the fuel systems. You'll have to take everything off the L24 and everything off the L28. When I did mine I bought a Fel-Pro kit. The intake manifold gasket is double drilled for both the injection and carb manifolds. As is the head on the car. What head does your L28 have? You'll have to get an electric fuel pump and pressure regulator, the L28 might not have a hole for the mechanical pump. The biggest issue for me was the exhaust. Drove the car to the exhaust shop with just the iron manifold. LOUD!! But fun! You will have to do some ignition wiring changes at the dizzy, I'm running a HEI module with a wiring diagram I got off of zhome.com. I also switched thermostat housings so I didnt have all the L28's vacumn stuff to worry about. I dont recall if I had to change the tach wiring at all. I think it worked fine right off the bat with the L28. Hope some of this helps. Chris

I used two small prybars on each side and GENTLY wiggled them back and forth and the pulley popped right off. I know some of you are thinking you could damage the front cover, but if you're careful and don't act like a bull in a china shop, you should get if loose. I have used a rubber mallet, not a composite with lead shot in it, a rubber mallet and with a few light hits to the pulley is enough to break the rust bond. When you get it off, very lightly oil the crank nose before you put it back on. FWIW Chris