ChrisA

Hey Carl, maybe if you have some spare time you could create a bibliography of your books and materials and post them as a Technical Article. I know I would find that most useful. As I'm always searching for that elusive Z book or manual. I could help contribute if needed. I have several items but mine are the usual things that most Z nuts already have. I'll start a list this weekend. Chris

I hope he tells us the serial number for this car. Maybe a genuine Series I?? Wish there were some of these "just sitting" in my neck of the woods. Chris

Damm right!! LOL :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Just so everybody knows, I've lived in Scottsdale AZ, Coral Gables FL, and Naperville IL. But I've been everywhere so I can relate!!! Relatives in Colorado, Oregon, California, Texas, Minnesota (eh!), Louisiana (I guarantee!). I LOVE THIS COUNTRY!!! (say outloud with Russian accent) Chris

Recovery tank was on front side of radiator support on drivers side. I got a good used one from the junkyard, dont forget the mounting bracket if you go that route. Chris

Hey Peter, can you tell exactly where your leak is? There are seals on the car body that seal the door when its closed. There are seals on the door above the door hinges. And there is a strip on the underside of the door. Some Z's had seals across the top of the stainless steel window frame. Much luck!! Chris P.S. Do you have a catalog for either Motorsport or Victoria British? They show better pictures. Motorsport's website isnt too good. VB's site wont show anything.

Lots of penetrating fluid and maybe a torch to heat up the joint. Works for me every time. Just dont set any rubber bits on fire!!!!!

Dude, read hls30.com's post in THIS THREAD!! Dash cap=dash cover=fullcover=full face cover!!!

Hey Carl, what kind of door is this? I have a non 240Z right hand door assembly on my 72. I dont know if its a 260 or 280 door. Has the rubber seal across the top of the stainless window frame. Has different window regulator mechanism. And original armrest wouldnt bolt on because the holes were not there. Had to make armrest fit with nutserts. Maybe someone can ID this door. Chris

Damm straight, this being after my 2 boxers have chewed on his arse. I pity the fool that comes into my house uninvited. Chris

Brandon are you sure about that? Where do you get your body panels? Just curious because I bought a right front fender from Tweaks before they went out of business and the fender isnt even close to the original. The fender to hood seam was wrong and the fender to headlight bucket seam is so far off you'd laugh. Just wondering, Chris

Now Mike..... LOL Chris

HAHAHAHA yeah baby, you said "shag"!!

Hi Peter, I run 16 x 7 Konig Monsoon's with 40mm offset. My car is lowered. Tokico struts, not sure about springs. With my spacers there is about a half inch of clearance between the inner sidewall and the suspension. Its not much but that will be fixed when I put on my Eibach setup. I drive this car hard and have never had tire rub except at full steering lock which doesnt happen often. Good luck!! Chris

Okay then, you have a 280Z, we'll assume it has the stock front disc and stock rear drum brakes. On the front the only cover is the little metal cap that covers the wheel bearings. Trying to adjust something to give you "4-5 revolutions" as you put it leads me to believe you're wanting to adjust your wheel bearings not your brakes. Your front disc brakes should ideally not be touching the rotor with the brakes released. Wheel rotation is then a product of the bearings in the hub and friction. Again, you should get a service manual if you're going to do the bearings. Most folks can repack bearings and assemble the hub by feel but it helps to have a manual to walk you through it if you've never done it before. Now on the rear of the car, drum brakes are a little more complicated. I have a 240Z and its rear brakes are a little different than your car. There are adjusters on the bottom of the shoes that have to be tweaked to the right settings. A manual will really help you here. Its been awhile for me on this.

I have a set of these on my car. They allow me to run wheels with big offsets. And it allowed me to choose a wheel to my liking. I got mine from somewhere else but they are exactly the same as your link. Been on the car since 2001, very satisfied. Chris

I assume you have a 280Z and not a 280ZX? Are you adjusting the emergency brakes? Front or rear brakes? Front disc brakes on all Z's. Nothing to adjust. Rear drum brakes on 280Z, you need a service manual to help you. Rear disc brakes on 280ZX. Nothing to adjust. Where is this cover you speak of? Tell us more grasshopper!! Chris

I had always heard that unleaded gas in original 240Z engines was harmful to the valve seats. I read in a Z book (cant remember which one) that the lack of lead can lead to excessive valve seat wear. No lead in the fuel to lubricate the workings in the head. I buy lead additive and octance booster and add it each time I fill up. But if your head has been redone it probably has hardened seats and todays gas wont harm them. I have an original E31 head that's never been touched and I feel the lead additive is worth the trouble to not have to overhaul the head. I dont remember when the factory went to hardened seats. I'd guess on the 280Z but I dont know for sure. FWIW Chris

different from all the yokels around here who think an F150 or a Silverado is the only means of transportation. Enjoy the ride!! Chris

I missed this one as well... Chris, 36 years young, Lincoln Nebraska (not a Red Clad Loon). Married, have a 5 month old son. 2 Boxer dogs, one cat. Work at a Mack Truck Dealership in the Parts Department. Hobbies besides Z cars are: Fine Tequila, model railroading, model cars, growing Italian San Marzano tomatoes, reading Stephen King during the winter. I fell in love with Z cars when I saw a Black Pearl 280 new on the lot. Bought a black 1971 when I was 16. Right now I have a 72 and a 73. The 72 is a beater I bought off a guy who was giong to have it crushed. Rusty but trusty. My 73 is a clean 99% rust free car that's spent its entire life in Nebraska. Sold out of an Omaha dealership I am its third owner. I have a couple pictures of it in my Gallery. It has your normal mods that you'd expect on a Z. Better suspension, wheels and tires, etc. Motor has been punched out and it has ztherapy carbs. Its not a rocket ship but she'll get up and go. Makes me smile everytime I look at her. Z-ya, Chris

As a parts salesman myself I'm bothered by Courtesy's response to you guys. Advertised price is advertised price. If I have a price on a part and its been viewed by a customer somewhere, like a flyer or mailer or internet site I am obligated to sell it to him at that price. Using the "hasnt been updated" line is bullsh_t. Courtesy is a big enough outfit that someone there is either lazy or just plain doesnt care that people are taking there business elsewhere. In todays economy you'd think they would do their darnedest to make the sale no matter what. I do at my shop. I dont want the customer spending his money anywhere else. Especially when I KNOW I have competition elsewhere. Its just plain stupid. Sorry to flame out guys. Having been in the automotive/heavy truck game now for 18 years kind of teaches you a thing or two about marketing and customer service. Make the customer happy and they'll be back. Chris

Marty, try Charlie Osborne at this link: http://www.datsunzparts.com/ I thought I saw an article in Sport Z Magazine that he was making center caps out of billet. Maybe they will fit your wheels. Much luck, Chris

Looking really good!!!! Chris

Hey Mike, send in some pics of your interior. I've always liked different colored interiors. Chris

Thanks Enrique for the tips, I just got done lightly scuffing it with a Scotchbrite pad and it looks like the texture is in the metal somehow. I got down to some shiny metal underneath and the texture is still there. I shot it black, not too bad now. Here's a picture. Chris

Anybody have any suggestions on how to refinish the metal panel on the dash that covers the defroster outlets. The one on my 72 is kind of grungy and no amount of scrubbing seems to help it. It seems to be textured below the black surface. I wonder if anybody has repainted theirs? Thanks in advance. Chris