ChrisA

Hey Craig, I dont know how it is in OZ, but you'd be surprised how many Chevrolet trucks are TBI in the US. I have a 4 of 99 S-10 and its throttle body injected. Thats pretty modern no? My response to 280ZX fever is: I have seen many Z's running the down draft webers that Victoria British used to sell, (they still might). I think Motorsport Auto may sell them also. Yes, they do I just checked. Weber DGV carb kit. Looks to be downdraft to me. They cant be too bad or people wouldnt run them right? My old 200SX was downdraft before I switched to twin SU's. Basically the same motor less two cylinders. Can you share as to why they would be no good?

Ed, yes the anti-seize will protect against rust. My 72 has 180,00 miles and has always been in the salt belt. When I remove my wheels there is not a trace of rust on the studs or the area on the hub where the stud holes in the wheels are. I use Permatex #80078. It resists heat up to 1600 F. It really works well on exhaust manifold bolts/studs as well.

I wonder,,,, if you were running a set of down draft webers, could you adapt those Holley squirters somehow? That might be cool. Just dreaming folks!!!

I have been using anti-seize for years and have never had a loose lug nut. A little goes a long way. Tomohawk makes a good point about cleaning the threads. I use agood wire brush to clean them up then the anti-seize. I had a set of the American Racing Libre/Libra? wheels and they were a bitch on nuts and studs till I started using the anti-seize. I guess its really a matter of preference or security. In my case being in the salt belt, the anti-seize protects the contact between the stud and nut really well. As a side note, I have always used the stock lug wrench that comes in the car. Never broke a stud, that would suck!!

My Grandfather taught me an old trick long ago. Get one of those small bottle torches like plummers use. Apply some heat to the nut, it will expand slightly to break the rust bond. Then they should come off. Put some anti-seize on the studs before you put them back on. Works for me. Just dont heat it up to much or you might damage the wheel area around the stud. Much luck!!

Hey Guys, just for kicks, a Mack Truck Engine (straight six) short block weighs 1758 pounds. The V8 3/4 engine weighs in at a nice 2281 pounds. Thats 998 cubic inches!! I have the 750 pound stand for my L motors, I added a brace between the vertical and the horizontal support for more stability. It really wobbled before I added the brace. Just be careful folks!!

Thanks Eric! I knew I had to get both pedals but I wasnt sure about the mounting. I'm assuming the location to hang the clutch pedal will be in the car even though it was an auto. I should probably get the pivot pins/return springs as well right?

I think my spacers are 40 mm thick to mount my 40mm offset wheels.

Does anybody know the production date change over to the 9mm rod bolts in the L24?

Hey Matthew, what part of Iowa are you in. There is a Z club in Omaha.

Questionable mileage aside. Drain all the fluids. Put some light oil down each spark plug hole and let it soak into the rings. Then ever so gently, turn the motor over by hand with a socket on the crank bolt. If the motor turns over, great, if it doesnt you might have a stuck piston or two. That's not fun to fix unless you're into that like me. Your carbs and manifolds on your Z will bolt to the ZX motor. Keep the ZX distributor and go to an aftermarket ignition. If you get the motor in and running do a compression check on each cylinder. Hopefully the valve train is good and the valve stem seals arent to cracked from age and leak into the chambers. Engine will smoke pretty good if those are bad. Keep us informed on your progress. Much luck. ChrisA

That would have been the fusible link I mentioned in my post. I have bought Z cars that had the connector broken and the slightest bump would disconnect it. Hopefully you have a true fusible link there and not just a piece of wire. That could cause a fire.

I marked around the bolts on the hinges with a marker before I took the hatch off. After the new seal went on the hatch closed harder due to a less smashed seal. Basically you want to have a good transition between the roof metal and the hatch metal. Look across the seam after you put it back on, you'll see if the hatch is high or low.

Troubled by news from Spain yesterday and today. Will it never end?

I agree with Steve's post. I took my hatch off because I wanted to clean the gunk out of the hinge pockets. But I could have done the seal without removing the hatch. I did small sections of the seal also as it made it more manageable. I checked and I also used the 3M black adhesive. Much luck.

Aboslute malarky. The picture of the car in Zama is proof enough for me. Highly disturbing. Here's what I found on zhome.com: 1971: 19th East African Safari Rally Overall First Place Team - Edgar Herrmann / Hans Shuller 240Z #11 (note: Overall Victory, Class, Team, and Mfg. Victory) Overall Second Team - Shekhar Mehta /Mike Doughty 240Z #31 Overall Seventh Team - Rauno Aaltonen / Paul Easter Car #12 1972: 20th East African Safari Rally Overall Fifth Place Team - Edgar Herrmann / Hans Shuller 240Z #10 Overall Sixth Place Team - Rauno Aaltonen / Toni Fall 240Z #5 Overall Tenth Place Team - Shekhar Mehta /Mike Doughty 240Z #8 1973 21st East African Safari Rally: Overall First Place Team - Shekhar Metha / H.W.(Lofty) Drews 240Z #1 Overall Second Place Team - Harry Kallstrom / C. Billstram DATSUN 1800SSS Overall Fourth Place Team - T. Fall / M. Wood DATSUN 1800SSS ACCIDENT - DNF Team - Rauno Aaltonen / Paul Ester - 240Z #6

Hi Allan, I took my hatch off and cleaned out the pockets. Its a two person job. I tried it by myself and was surprised how heavy the hatch is. I didnt use the adhesive that came with my seal. Every Z person I've ever talked to said to use the black Permatex or 3M weatherstip adhesive and follow the directions on the tube carefully. I also learned you must lightly sand the new seal to remove the mold release that is on the rubber. The glue wont stick if you dont. The area around the hinges does prove to be the most difficult to seal right. I still have the occasional drip when I wash the car. Lastly, take your time as this is a tedious undertaking. Much luck.

Thanks for the heads up Alan. I googled for TRUST exhaust distributors and came up with nothing. Guess I'll just have one made locally.

Hey Guys, that TRUST system looks sweet. Anybody know where I can get one?

I think Chuck is right, I crawled under my 2 of 73 Z and the rear bar mounting is not stock according to the microfiche. Plus the bar is bigger diameter than stock also. FWIW!

Hi Folks, My 5 of 71 Z had no rear bar. It was a 4 speed. My 8 of 72 Z has no rear bar. It is an automatic. My 2 of 73 Z has a rear bar. It is a 4 speed. Dont know what the correlation is, maybe Nissan thought the slush box cars wouldnt be driven hard but they were proven wrong. I can send the rear end of the 72 out at any hard left or right turn. Makes for great fun. My 2 cents.

At least he didnt have mice living in the air cleaner box. They dont like getting sucked into the carbys. Chewed right through the air cleaner the little bastards.