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ChrisA

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Everything posted by ChrisA

  1. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Correct, having done it twice. Chris A.
  2. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Hi Mike, I'd give the brake system a good check before going on the maiden voyage as well. Have fun.
  3. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Welcome Lee, what part of Kansas are you from? Lots of Z's in KC/Overland Park. Chris A.
  4. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Excellent tips Carl, Might I suggest oiling the cam and rockers before trying to turn the motor over with a wrench. Who knows how long the valve train had to drain off the oil. Otherwise, you've got plenty here to get going on. I wish I could help you, I love doing this kind of thing. Chris A.
  5. Sounds like you could live in Nebraska! :laugh: Regardless, simply outstanding car. I'd give up a lot for one of those. Chris A.
  6. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Introductions
    Hi Mike, welcome to the group. Man I love a Z with American Racing Libra wheels. Nice looking find you have there. The fuel tank probably need a good clean out. New rubber fuel lines at the tank and in the engine bay as well. If its still got the "flat top" carbs on it, then you might have some trouble. Enrique can certainly help you if you're in his neck of the woods. Good luck and have fun. Chris A.
  7. Do my shop trucks count? 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Shortbox 4x4 Hemi 2002 Chevy Colorado with weird 5 cylinder engine 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Longbox 2wd 360 Magnum Chris A.
  8. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Might be right there Tom, I was thinking it was a thingamagiggy.:laugh:
  9. 1989 Nissan S13 240SX....with mods! Nismo, JWT, Apexi. SR20DET someday. 2000 Nissan Xterra....with mods! Nismo, JWT, Calmini. Two more S30 240Z's in storage! All I need is money and time!
  10. ChrisA commented on 280~Master's comment on a gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
  11. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    Q: Why do dogs lick their own butts? A: To get the taste of mailman out of their mouths. Sorry, heard that today.
  12. One word is the only one that doesnt fail me right now......WOW! Thanks for the pictures and I hope the car brings you much enjoyment. Chris A.
  13. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Welcome to the group! Motorsport Auto Banzai Motorworks Courtesy Nissan You can google them for exact web links. Chris A.
  14. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    Correct, but the usage for minorities is FAR surpassed by the majority. Why is that? In Nebraska anyway, we don't know. Racism is racism, you can't paint it any other way. Having "good" qualities in the public eye is one thing, because we all know what goes on behind closed doors sometimes. I'm currently reading a series of essays by an author from Indiana about her family. She makes note of the time her father taught their dog to hate a certain color of people. Again, the dog "learned" the behavior. Didn't matter whether the people the dog hated were good or bad. Chris A.
  15. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    You know, thinking about this more, it appears to me to be directed at African Americans/Blacks. The funny thing where I live is that statistically, Nebraska has more WHITE families in trouble than any other race. Now you may then think, "well Nebraska must be a "white" state". Not true, Omaha and Lincoln have high populations of non-white ethnic groups. And the next big cities of Grand Island, Norfolk, Scottsbluff, North Platte, Columbus are not far behind. I know this because I have a friend who is a case worker with the state and they told me so. The ethnic families are the least troublesome and the most law-abiding. Their kids go to school and don't become truancy cases. They're not hopped up on meth or alcoholics. My point again is this, there are good and bad everywhere. Doesn't matter what color or gender or age. Chris A.
  16. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Funnybone
    As we are all aware, there are good folks and bad folks of every race, color and creed. And Bill, I WOULD let you live with me if your house got destroyed. BUT, you live by my rules or you're out the door. Simple as that. There are rules everywhere and some people think the rules don't apply to them. That right there is what ticks me off the most. If you're a law breaker, and you get caught, you pay the price. I don't give a rat's A$$ where you're from or what color you are. Damn it, the blood's still red. We all know the difference from right and wrong. But again, some just don't care. Racism, hatred and bigotry are LEARNED behaviors. We must unteach what some have learned. It has to start there. Now, that said, you're all invited over to my place for BBQ, beer and being KIND to one another. Chris A.
  17. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Well just for curiosity I googled "how to break in a new engine" and I got some surprises. One guy said "drive it hard" but he was the minority (claims he's done over 300 engines this way). I dont think I can follow this guy's advice. Here's a good one I found that I liked. "Piston rings, which separate the air from the combustion chamber with the oil/air from the crankcase, need to settle, and are unlikely to do so if the car is driven spiritedly. Even after 300 or 500 miles you'd be surprised how much filth is in your oil - tiny metal particles mostly - which needs to be replaced." 1. Change oil at 300 miles. 2. Change oil again at 1000. 3. Change oil at at the scheduled interval (typically 3000/3500 miles.) 4. Drive very gently the first 1000 miles. No racing, no crazy downshifting, no hard braking, no dumping the clutch. 5. Drive normally until your first scheduled oil change (3000/3500 miles), but still refrain from spirited driving. 6. Drive normally from then on. Sounds like reasonable, logical advice. Now, when we rebuilt the engine in my Dad's Cutlass (350 Rocket bored oversize with hotter cam), we we're told to drive it normally but refrain from long durations at a sustained RPM. Like, no driving down the interstate at a steady 75 MPH. Normal around town driving which varies the RPM constantly is what was recommended to us. FWIW, Chris A.
  18. Ditto!! Buff it and let is shine!! Chris A.
  19. Hi Tom, I can't take credit for it. It's from here....http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm But it seemed appropriate for those people here that might need it. I built one exactly as shown but my welding is nowhere near as pretty. Chris A.
  20. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Hi Will, Actually the beer was in the cooler behind the car!!! It was hot that day! I scored big points for being the only one who brought drinks! The jumbo Igloo cooler will hold a lot! Chris A.
  21. To convert some carbureted vehicles to EFI, we recommend fitting a fuel surge tank to avoid fuel feed problems, especially during hard cornering. This is also useful on many stock EFI cars which have poorly baffled tanks. The surge tank stores a small amount of fuel for the high pressure pump to pick up if flow from the main tank is interrupted for any reason. Usually the tank is mounted in the engine compartment. Fuel is piped to it by either a stock engine driven mechanical pump or a low pressure electric pump. Often the stock electric pump can be used. A high pressure EFI pump will be mounted below the surge tank. The fuel gravity feeds into this pump and goes to the fuel rail. Fuel not used by the engine is returned from the rail, through the fuel pressure regulator, to the top of the surge tank. From here, if the surge tank is full, fuel is returned back to the main fuel tank. The schematic below shows a common setup: Most tanks will have three fittings on the top, one for feed from the low pressure pump, one for fuel returned through the fuel pressure regulator and one for the return back to the main fuel tank. Usually only one fitting is used on the bottom of the tank for feeding the high pressure pump. Tanks are usually about .5 to 1 liter in capacity, made from either steel or aluminum tubing. The tubing is usually 2.5 or 3 inch diameter and .050 to .075 wall thickness. A long tank allows any trapped air to rise to the top so it does not enter the high pressure pump. Threaded bosses are welded to the top and bottom caps or sides as in the example below. Usually 1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT fittings are used but AN type fittings can also be used depending on your plumbing preferences. This tank has 3 lower fittings for twin pumps plus a drain fitting. Earls NPT weld-in bosses are used. This tank is made from 3 inch, 6061 T6 tubing. Mild steel exhaust tubing also works well. All joints are carefully TIG welded. Test for leaks before installing.
  22. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Hybrid & Aftermarket
    Here's a nice link to a surge tank DIY. http://sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm Chris A.
  23. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Exactly. Take this picture for instance. You see Z33's, Z32's, a Z31 and even a G35. There's also two Mitsu 3000's and a RX-7 twin turbo. BUT, what do you see standing around the lone 240Z? A small crowd. Now the guy in the ballcap with the big Z on his back (Classic Z Car!) is me, but none the less I spent the afternoon entertaining questions and always had people around the car. The other Z's? Nobody seemed to care. FWIW, Chris A.
  24. ChrisA posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    Hi Marty, Your plan sounds all good to me. Filling the radiator with coolant will put plenty into the block. I used to let the engine run till the thermostat opened with the radiator cap off. Then you can see the fluid level drop and then add more. Cranking the engine over with no spark is about the best way to get oil pressure unless you pre prime it with a pressure device. I use an old dizzy shaft with no gear on it. But you have to drop the oil pump which some would consider to much. Have fun. I see Will beat me to it! Chris A.
  25. Hi Mark, Just looked at your pictures. You are one lucky SOB, that car is a beauty. Nice find. I know you'll enjoy it. Chris A.
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