ChrisA

Hi Mat, Hey I really appreciate the offer, but my 71 got parted out due to the tin worm being to much for me to fix. Sure wish I had kept it as I could fix it today. Too young and poor back then! My 73 has one though. Thanks again anyway, Chris A.

Hi Arne, I am probably wrong on this but my 71 didnt have one. Had the console with the ashtray in front of the shifter. Maybe if Chris Wenzle is reading this he will know for sure. Although Mat's car is older than my 71 was and apparently he has it on his. Mine may have been MIA before I got mine. FWIW, Chris A.

Hi Doug, I used the big spacers from the SU's with the long studs from the earlier manifolds. Just because they were handy. I would check to see if the chokes are on. Loosen the screws that secure the cables on the choke/throttle arms. They should return to zero due to the springs with the wires loose. Then try and start the car. If it was the chokes the RPM should be at or near normal. Reach under the carbs and press both nozzles straight up. They might be stuck and not returning to idle either. Bent needle? Good luck. Chris

Congratulations Scott & Vicky, Well deserved as always. Can hardly see Vicky behind that giant trophy. How many does that make now? :classic: Chris A.

My sincerest best wishes to the winner. I hope he/she can make it a driver again. Chris A.

You are so right Steve. I personally have looked at a hundred Z's in the Midwest since 1990. And the only one I found with only surface rust is in my garage right now. I just dont have the time or storage space right now to go save that car. I have the means and a truck and trailer. But.......... I hope someone buys her and finds she's a diamond in the rough. Chris A.

Kind of hard to tell in a b/w photo, but I don't see a radio antenna. Or rear pillar emblems. Cool advertisements either way. Chris A.

Hey John, thanks for that. I'll add it to my collection. I really like page 6. 1969 Corvette 427 for sale $4700. That would have been an incredible purchase. Chris A.

Hi Vicky and Scott, Have a great time at the dragon! Pictures please!! Chris

Adam, Thanks for the tips and pictures. Nice job. I really like your less cluttered wiring. jmortensen, Which way did you connect the two wires on the dizzy to the magnetic pickup on the MSD? The dizzy wires are red/green and the mag pickup wires are green/violet. Thanks, Chris A.

Okay guys, I have question for those that have eliminated the little vacumn pot on the balance tube. What do you do with the pivot bracket on the accellerator linkage between the carbs? Just leave it there? Remove it some how? It just seems tacky to leave it there when you strip the balance tube down like the E41 model. Thanks, Chris

Hello all, Thanks for the feedback so far. Tonight I removed everything from the head. I decided to do a trial fit and make sure everything would go smoothly. So far so good. Carbs/linkage/balance tube all fit the N36 manifolds like they were meant to be there. I thought I had a pretty tidy engine bay till I got all the stuff off. A good cleaning is in order after its back together. I took David's (dspillman) advice and will dyno a set that I did NO porting on and then will dyno the ported set. Three dyno runs ought to prove one way or the other. I've attached some more pics. I shot a close up of the butterfly on my ZT carbs I got in 1998. Chris

Hi Danny, I used a product called radiator tape or a/c tape. Got it at a local shop that does air conditioning work. I cut strips long enough to do the job, then cut those strips in half lengthwise. Then doubled them up to fill the gap. I tried the foam weatherstrip stuff from the hardware store but it just didnt meet my standards. Good luck to you. Chris

Currently I have two Z's. Both 73's. One is in storage and needs work. The other stays at home in the garage driven only on dry roads. I used to have a 71 but it was rusted beyond reasonable repair (even by mull's standards) and I had a 72 that belongs to Bill Ramsey now. The stored 73 is all original. No mods but Western Cyclone wheels (yuck) and rear window louvers. Flat top carbs too! The Z at home has most of your basic mods. And a list of more waiting to be done. When I have the time I plan to redo the other Z. I really enjoy Z cars and being a member of this club and Z Cars of Nebraska as well. Chris

Hi Eric, Welcome to the group. Love that color on your Z. Have fun. Chris

Try these two seperate tests for sending unit then gauge. First, test the sending unit. 1) Disconnect wires from tank sending unit. 2) Set your multimeter to the resistance function. 3) Connect meter leads to terminals of sending unit. 4) Move the sending unit float arm through a full swing. 5) If your multimeter detects a change in resistance during the swing, the sending unit is good. Second, test the gauge. 1) Check for power at the gauge (key on). 2) Check for good grounds. 3) Turn key to ACC or RUN postion. 4) Install jumper wire across terminals of sending unit while having a helper watch the reaction of the gauge. 5) If the gauge needle moves across the full scale then gauge is working. If the gauge needle didn't move then its a wiring problem or the sending unit is bad. Obviously you must remove the sending unit from the tank to test it so I'd probably check the gauge first. Much luck to you. Chris A.

Well thanks Alan, that means a lot coming from you. Chris

I sell all the Lucas line at my shop. The product does what it claims. Although the one negative I found was on an L28 that had a couple valve stem seals going bad. Tended to smoke a bit more on the Lucas. But, it did raise the oil pressure at idle by 9 pounds. The folks on this site that ran STP Motor Treatment and saw what it did to a crankcase will understand what Lucas will do to a motor. I personally dont put anything in my engine oil. I use Lucas in the gearbox and differential. They run cooler and quieter. I'd be interested to know if the GM additive leaves such a heavy coating on internal parts. FWIW, Chris A.

For those interested in genuine Dana Spicer U Joints for their 240Z, here are the part numbers you would need. See attached chart. Position 1 and 2 = Part Number 5-1501X Postions 3 thru 6 = Part Number 5-1505X If you have a shop in your area that does driveline work and sells Dana Spicer, you can have them ordered in.

We'll never know will we. But thanks for the reply to the original topic of this thread. I just knew we'd hear from you.

A certain member here would tell you its because Americans are fat and lazy and wouldn't appreciate a good car if they had the chance to buy one.