ChrisA

If you have the money, race L28's with injection and turbo have been reported to make well over 500 horsepower. AND you dont have to ruin the car's weight balance by dropping a heavy V8 in. Moderate money will get you 400 horses easy out of a 280ZX turbo motor. For me though, the 250 horses in my 240Z engine is more than enough in a 2300 pound car. I am building a turbo motor for my daily driver though. I have one car that's a guinea pig so its always fun to extract more power from a new toy. Keep the six!!!! Chris

My Z car's nemesis..........SNOW!! I'd have to agree with Will. Looking through my old racing history on Z's it appears they took on all comers!! I watched Paul Newman wheel the Z with the President V8 engine in it. WOW what a sound!! Chris

The law of supply and demand is working well for you Victor. More demand in Cali so you pay more than John Wayne in Wyoming!! By the way its $2.10 for premium where I'm at.:classic: Chris

If I'm not mistaken the emblems were always plastic on the Z. The only metal ones I've ever seen were on a 510(Bluebird?). And the font style was different. Maybe the oldest 69/70 Z's were metal. Hey Chris(26thZ) what do you think? My 71/72/73 were all plastic. Chris

Boy, we really need an importer of these parts. I really could spend some cash!! Did anyone see this car at spiritgarage.com?

Fairlady Z? Chris

Okay now, let's all be nice. You'll get Carl mad!:classic: Its your money, buy whatever the hell makes you happy. Peace, Chris

Hey Vicky, This seems like the Slick 50/Splitfire thread:cheeky: You're gonna find a ton of different opinions about oil I'll bet. Personally I like Castrol. The BRE cars ran Kendall GT1 I think, or it might have been the Bob Sharp cars. I'll stick to the 10W weight just because the factory put it in. If we had a really good engineer who could design us a crank counter weight slinger/scraper we could get 5 to 10 more ponies out of our Z engines no matter what oil we ran. I'm always thinking!! Chris

Hey Zwolley, did you put in a genuine Nissan thermostat? I put a Gates in once and mine did what yours did. Seems the Gates was very slow to open which really heated things up before she popped open. The OEM stat cracks at about 182 on my direct reading gauge. Plus I think Carl (Bambikiller) posted a thread on this once about how much bigger the center opening on the OEM stat was versus aftermarket. Much luck, Chris

Hey Ed, gently pry the breather out of the rear cover and clean it out. In my generic differential manual it says that a clogged breather can actually cause oil leakage as the pressure builds up and forces oil out wherever it can past the breather. I know it sounds crazy but that's what the book says. I havent done this in awhile but I think the lower hole in the breather has to be positioned a certain way in the cover. Much luck, Chris

Along with everything Stephen and Ed said, I would be leery of the head gasket on a car that's sat for 10 years. You just never know the internal condition of the motor when it was put away all those years ago. On a side note, if you've got an air conditioning condenser in front of your radiator you will limit the air flow which could cause an overheating problem if your radiator is already suspect. Especially if you live in a hot climate. Much luck, Chris

I run NGK BP6EY V Power Plugs, here's why according to NGK's website: The V Groove "Forces the spark to the outer edge of the ground electrode, placing it closer to the air/fuel mixture. This allows the spark to more quickly ignite the mixture, providing more complete combustion....NGK's patented v-groove design allows the ignition system to easily spark in these dense air/fuel mixtures. The flame kernel will quickly grow and allow the engine to potentially make more power since it now is operating more efficiently. As an added bonus, the v-groove forcing the spark to the outer edge of the ground electrode helps reduce the "quenching" effect, reducing misfires caused by high cylinder pressures "blowing out" the spark." When I put the L28E in my 72 I decided to try these plugs. No, you can' tell any difference really, but they are NGK so what the heck! Chris

Ralph!!:sick: :sick: Chris

Attaboy Rob, we knew you could do it. Z folks can do anything!!! Let us know how she drives when you get her done.:classic: Chris

I know its been said before, but Kats's car is simply amazing. I could look at his website pictures for hours on end. Keep up the good work Kats!! Makes me proud to have Z's. Chris

Seems like people all over are wanting way too much for Z's in crappy shape. Keep looking!! Chris

Wish I had an extra $13,000 lying around!:disappoin Oh well, somebody will pick it up. Chris

Thanks for the replies so far folks. When he told me the car was glassed all over, and I really couldn't tell except around the fuel door, I was not interested in the car anymore. I am still amazed at what he wanted for it. The most shocking thing I forgot to say in the first post was, he actually said the car had NOT been regularly driven since like 1985. He'd only license it to move it around. Like in the picture I posted (taken in 99) its by his house, now its a hundred yards away in a field. Some people are hard to figure out!!:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: Chris

Here's a bad picture of it off the assessors webite. Chris

Okay. so yesterday at lunch I decided to go look at a Z car that's been sitting in a field. It was a metallic blue 76 280Z. Looks pretty good. Alloy wheels, custom lower rocker ground effects. Custom spoiler. White interior (never seen that before), double sunroof. Car hadnt been licensed since 96. Door was open so I looked around inside. Dash has couple cracks, console was so-so. Opened hood, motor was clean. Looked like a four speed. So I leave a note at the house and today the guy calls me. Says he put $4500 in fiberglass bodywork into in 96. Front fenders, entire rear wheel arches and area around fuel door are glass. Says it runs good then three sentences later says "it had an injector miss". I'm thinking the dude wants to get rid of it.........he says "I couldnt let it go for less than $5000." I about gagged. He says "its only got 70,000 original miles" then tells me at 50,000 he had to re-ring the motor. Wow, what do you all think? Chris

Hey Rob, I used a small arbor press to push the bushings out of the control arm. Very quick, no mess. You can buy presses that are manual or hydraulic powered. Mine is hydraulic. I used a chunk of black pipe to support the sleeve that's welded to the arm. Then used an impact socket to match the diameter of the bushing and whammo pressed them right out. Have done this on four Z's and it is slick. If you choose to install stock bushing (lord knows why) them slather anti seize on them and press them back in. Much Luck, Chris

There is a good discussion with some pictures in this thread link: http://240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10229 Chris

They don't call it the "Blue Wrench" for nothing!! LOL :classic: Chris