ChrisA

Its not really me, but I thought the pic was funny!! LOL

Here it is.

Hey SledZ, car looks really good. Hope to see it at the Stan Olsen show on the 25th. Chris

Uhhhhh???? :dead: :dead:

alien-e said: "You would have to move the mounts to a lower postion to get the stock 280Z sway bar to fit." Do you mean the end mounts or the main bar mounts? Thanks, Chris

So...do you guys think I can put a 280Z rear bar on my 72? I have access to three junkers with bars. Thanks, Chris

Thanks for the fast reply on that man!!

Hey Folks, I have to remove the old faded decals off the air cleaner cover without damaging the paint. Any suggestions? I have some 3M Woodgrain and Stripe Remover but it says it will damage a laquer finish. Thanks in advance. Chris

WOW!! Sellers ignorance is not buyers bliss! Or is it the other way around.:stupid:

You will have to get a flywheel off a manual shifted 280Z. The auto tranny uses a thin "flexplate" instead of a flywheel. I have heard some recent discussion about the possiblity of the starters being different also but I'm not sure on that. Might be a number of teeth on the gears issue. If you can get all the parts rounded up then you're home free. Chris

That tranny shop guy fed you a line of bull. I have a 73 with a built L24 and stock 4 speed and it will go 135 (dont tell my wife). A four speed is better than the auto but not as good as the 5 speed. My auto tranny will twist 5,000 rpm at serious speed. You may be right about the lockup. I dont know jack about auto trannys. The first one I had blew out second gear so I just swapped in a salvage yard unit. I wonder how your fluid level is? Are the tranny cooler lines hooked up to the bottom of the radiator. Keep digging man, you'll get it. That Z car out to do at least 120 in stock form. Chris

I have a 240Z with L28 engine and auto tranny, stock R180 rear end, my car will do well over 100 and motor is stock. I would say you have a mechanical issue. Tranny could be slipping if its really in third gear. Can you shift up from 1st to 3rd manually? That is a strange problem to not go over 60. You could have an engine problem also. Lack of fuel delivery at high rpm, bad timing, bad ignition spark at high rpm. Changing to a 5 speed would help indeed. As long as your motor is working right. You definitely have some work ahead of you. Keep testing. Chris

My repsonse to the R180 versus R200 horsepower issue is based on what Don Devendorf spoke about while building the Bob Sharp Z cars in the 70's. I recall him saying the R200's would handle more horsepower than the R180. With turbo'd injected L28's making over 800 horsepower he liked the R200 best. Yes it is heavier because its built with stouter mechanicals than the R180. Quaiffe diffs are an expensive option for most. I will stick with the R200 to handle the expected 460 crank horsepower from my L28 turbo motor I'm building. I had a 327 Chevy powered 240 and I shredded the R180 with that motors 300 horsepower (its the torque that kills trannys and rear ends). Chris

A lower ratio like a 3:36 or a 3:54 will give you a higher top end speed if you have the horsepower to drive it. Stop light drag racers like a higher ratio to get them out of the hole. 4:11 is typical in your Camaros and such but it does limit top speed. Friend of mine drag races a 57 Chevy with a 7:something rear end. He runs quarter miles in the 10's but the cars top speed is only 110 mph. Depends on a lot of factors how fast you can ultimately go. Chris

R200 will handle more horsepower and had different ratios than the R180. Physically larger than R180 also.

Hey Nate, that fuse box is an aftermarket Painless Wiring kit that powers my stereo and electric fuel pump. Real easy to install. Anyway, yes that rectangular relay is the Accesory relay. If that is bad I think you'd have no power inside the car. But I've never had one fail on six Z's. The 20 amp fuse is tucked in behind the center heater panel. There were two of them one my car wrapped in blue tape. Might be a good idea to check on yours as I dont remember what they were for. I replaced mine with the newer style push in fuses like in the picture I attached. I thought one was for the stock radio but without my wiring diagram in front of me I'm not sure. I will dig the diagram out tonite after work and see if I can help you. Did you happed to flip over the fuse box on yours and see if everything was ok? Keep testing!! Chris

Besides the obvious carbs/intake/filter box the pillar emblems are wrong, no automatic option in 69. Could have been added but highly doubtful. Other clues lead you to believe its not a 69. I ask, whats the VIN number? That would tell us. It just goes to prove that people will try to sell anything without doing any research. I'll give em $100 bucks for the whole mess. I'll even pick it up.

The hazard flasher is the cylinder right above the rectangular relay.

Hi Gema, did you check the flasher for the hazards? It is separate from the regular turn signal flasher. Its just a guess cuz I dont see how the hazard and the map lamp/room lamp are connected. They arc didnt blow the bulbs out of the lamps? That would be a stretch for sure but it could happen. You may have to take the center heater panel down, trace the wiring from the map lamp back and see if anything is burnt. I had a fuse box that the fuse clips were so corroded that no juice would flow through the fuse. A good cleaning fixed things. Keep testing. Chris

Hey Tom, thanks for the fast reply on that pump. I will check it out. I did like you did and mounted mine on a rubber pad and it still hammers like mad. Chris

Any suggestions for which aftermarket electric pump is the quietest. I have a Holley Red pump and that thing is driving me nuts with its loud rattle. The two links that Carl provided look interesting but I wonder how quiet they are. I had the stock cylindrical pump but chucked it years ago. I have heard that the square Facet pumps are quite loud. Thanks in advance. Chris

If the relays are 12 volts to the coil. You could bench test them with a car battery. Use an ohm meter across the distribution terminals and fire the relay off the battery to see if it passes. I dont have a 280Z or ZX so I'm not familiar with the terminal arrangement on your relays. The factory service manual should show it. The wiring diagram might be printed on the relay itself also.