ChrisA

Thats exactly the case Bruce. We gotta get more people involved in every aspect of the club. Four people cant do it all. I would love to see some 510's in Nebraska. In all my years here I have seen one 2 door and one 4 door. The 2 door was loaded for bear also. SSS parts all over the car. Twin carbed L20B in it if I remember. Thanks for showing interest Bruce.

Hey Bruce, at the last show in 2003 I think there were 27 cars present. Not a lot but remember, this was our first year. And most of the cars were from the Omaha area. The number should go higher this year as we're trying to spread west from Omaha. We had 5 events in 2003. And six planned for this year. We include all Z's and have had a good mix of each model at our events. Visit our website at: http://www.zcarsofnebraska.org Thanks for the tip on the decals also Bruce. Mike at Banzai was great to deal with

Hey Daniel, Try heating the side of the block where the broken bolt is. And around the bolt hole. Heating the surrounding area should expand the metal a little hopefully breaking the bond between the block and the bolt. Your easy out should do the trick. Good luck.

Engine wont stay running and "floor pans out". I'd say $750 is the right price considering the remaining work needed.

Even though I havent forgotten that horrible day, is it wrong for me to get so angry when I see those images again? I often wonder if people remember exactly what they were doing when it happened. I can't forget and I won't forget. Peace to all.

Thanks for the tip people, just got off the phone with Mike at Banzai. Very pleasant man. Has a great selection of decals on his site. Cant wait to get them and put them on.

Anybody know where I can get repro decals for the stock air cleaner. Mine are fading away. Thanks in advance. Chris

April 18th Show at Stan Olsen Nissan moved to April 25th due to conflict with Branson Z fest. Same time noon till 4. Z you there.

Hey Michael, I think if the auto tranny was the Jatco unit, the switch is bolted to the right side. Maybe if you took the switch off the tranny and left it plugged in to the harness and rotated it as if it were in Park or Neutral then maybe the car would start. I had a Silvia(200SX) and the switch went bad. I thought there were 3 wires coming out of it. Its been a long time since I had that car though. Maybe you could just tie the switch up somewhere and leave it. If I remember correctly, its a rather odd looking kinda round switch. Hope this helps some.

Ouch!!

The photos of the wrecked Skylines and Z's just makes me sick. Absolutely sick. That silver Skyline looks like its trying to be bent in half. How about the one in the tree!!??!!??:disappoin :disappoin :(

There are two little inlet filters at the float bowls on the banjo fittings but those are like a secondary filter after the primary by the mechanical pump.

Hey Doc, On my 73 I also disconnected the electric pump. The filter was built into the pump on my car. It had a twist off cap on the bottom of the cylinder. If you have by-passed the electric pump then you should just have the filter up in the engine bay near the mechanical pump. I dont think there is any other filters. Hope this answers your question. I am surprised that JohnB can run triples with the stock electric pump. But you never know.

Hey Tomohawk , Mack Truck part number 20QD123P2. How many you want?

My setup is 76 L28E with 71 carbs and manifold. Holley electric pump at tank/Mr. Gasket pressure regulator under hood. 71 fuel rail with return. To answer dponder's question: I dont think the stock electric pump will be enough to feed SU's. It was a booster for the mechanical pump. And yes you will need the fuel return system.

Ditto to John, My 73 has factory wiring back to the electric pump. Everyone knows about the filter in that pump right? Mine was full of crap when I bought the car. Ran bad till I replaced the filter. Makes a mess when you drop the cap off the bottom. I think the post about the recall is right. I had the aluminum covering on the fuel rail and lines when I bought it but took it all off when I switch to the good carbs. No vapor lock for me. Gets over 100 in the summer here.

Non USA carb. Friend has a L20A engine in a RHD Z with that carb. Looks similiar to carb on 1977 200SX I used to have.

thanks for all the tips guys, the salvage yard will be glad to take more of my money.

Okay guys, which junker should I swipe the 15/16 master cylinder off of?

Hey Lance, one more question. Will I have to pull the stub axles to get the new brackets on? Thanks, Chris

Thanks Lance, I'm off to the salvage yard this weekend!!

Thanks Tom, hopefully you or another member can remember which rotors. I am so ready for rear discs.

What rotors did you guys use? Have to use any spacers or other mods? Or is it all bolt on. Thanks in advance.

Hey Craig, smoke was light blue. I have driven the car 3 times since and only get the smoke in the morning after she's sat all night. Still think it might be rich? Color Tune says no.