ChrisA

Welcome back!

Sounds interesting. I use this...http://www.californiacustom.com/purple_metal_polish.html Time for a head to head comparison. Chris A.

Will, I can loan you a 71 FSM that's already unbound and three hole punched. And a 75 FSM (I'll have to verify that) in same condition. Let me know. Chris A.

WOW, thanks Mark.

Thanks for the pictures Mark! I'd sure like to know what the specs on the maroon #32 Z are. Looks like a big intercooler in there. Chris A.

I was 19.....she was a black 1971 240Z. Miss that old girl. Chris A.

Chris, I took an old oil pump shaft, removed the gear and machined the distributor end to fit a cordless drill. With the modified shaft in place of the original shaft you can pre-lube an engine that's been sitting without having to turn over the entire reciprocating assembly. You might already know this though. Good luck, sounds like my kind of fun. Just not today at 2 degrees. :tapemouth Chris A.

Hi Mike, After looking at all the pictures, here's my thoughts. If I were in the market (like Will) that car'd be mine already. Like others have said, I'd offer low first and be fully prepared to give the $7500. I think its well worth it no matter how much more you will or won't put into the car. I drove an early 71 with much worse underside rot than #237 for many years. You never knew it though looking at the main body of the car. Arne said it best, "what is your goal?". Buy the car now, enjoy it on nice dry days, then later if you're so inclined, put her back to factory condition as best you can. Again, if you're so inclined. I'm no purist. I love the S30 cars. All of them. Show condition and buckets like Mr. Wenzl's #27. Its a Z afterall. If you brought #237 to my house tomorrow (wouldnt let you due to the snow:laugh: ) I'd be so envious no matter what condition it was in. Buy it Mike, save it. Chris A.

Very nice collection of cars and signs Michael! Chris A.

Hi Michael, NICE SHOP!! Love the roadsters!! What's hiding under the car cover? Great signs too. Chris A.

I don't know the details at Nissan itself. But the local Datsun dealer in my town was instructed to trash all parts in their inventory older than a certain date. Obsolescence they called it. I happened to be at the dealer (Doan Rose Datsun) one day during this cleaning house period. I was allowed to sort through the parts they were going to scrap. I made out like a bandit and it was all free. 200SX and 240Z parts were all I took. I lived in an apartment with no garage at the time or I would have taken much much more. Like a dummy I passed on some engine, tranny and diffferential parts because I wasn't as educated on Datsuns as I am know. Hindsight being 20-20 and all! :stupid: Chris A.

Hi Michael, Welcome to the group. That is a beautiful car you have. I love that color on a Z too. Regards, Chris

Stu Pidaso, you have a call on line 3. Paging Stu Pidaso to line 3. Chris A.

Hey!! Congratulations Will. That's a fine looking boy. All the best from my family to yours. Chris A.

Hi Guys, While this is an interesting thread, I would like to point out what was mentioned in the other thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=163951&postcount=34 Take caution posting pictures of your actual working keys. They can be used to duplicate a key by anyone with the desire and possibly steal your car. FWIW, Chris A.

Interesting article on MSN Money.. Link http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/SavingandDebt/SaveonaCar/20waysYouWasteMoneyOnYourCar.aspx?page=all Paste: By Des Toups "Cars make us irrational. We call them our babies and lovingly wax them every Saturday -- or we turn up the radio to drown out the sound of a dragging muffler. Either mindset will cost you money, sometimes a lot of it. Walking the line between obsession and neglect means you never spend a nickel without a good reason -- and good reasons can include spending money on something that’s not broken. Here, then, are 20 ways you waste money on your car. Premium gas instead of regular. Buy the cheapest gasoline that doesn’t make your car engine knock. All octane does is prevent knock; a grade higher than the maker of your car recommends is not a “treat.” 3,000-mile oil changes. Manufacturers typically suggest 5,000 miles, 7,500 miles or even longer intervals between oil changes (many car markers now include oil-life monitors that tell you when the oil is dirty -- sometimes as long as 15,000 miles.) There may be two recommendations for oil-change intervals: one for normal driving and one for hard use. If you live in a cold climate, take mostly very short trips, tow a trailer or have a high-revving, high-performance engine, use the more aggressive schedule. If you seldom drive your car, go by the calendar rather than your odometer. Twice a year changes are the minimum. Taking false economies. Better to replace a timing belt on the manufacturer’s schedule than to have it break somewhere in western Nebraska. Better to pop for snow tires than to ride that low-profile rubber right into a tree. Using the dealer’s maintenance schedule instead of the factory’s. Of course he thinks you should have a major tune-up every 30,000 miles. Most of the tasks that we generally think of under the heading of “tune-up” are now handled electronically. Stick to the manufacturer’s schedule unless your car is not running well. If your engine doesn't "miss" -- skip a beat or make other odd noises -- don’t change the spark plugs or wires until the manufacturer says so. Using a dealer for major services. Independent shops almost always will do the same work much cheaper. Call around, owner’s manual in hand, to find out, mindful that the quality of the work is more of a question mark. Some dealers may tell you using outside garages violates the car’s warranty. This is a lie. Using a dealer for oil changes. Dealers sometimes run dirt-cheap specials, but otherwise you’ll usually find changes cheaper elsewhere. If you’re using an independent shop for the first time, you might inconspicuously mark your old oil filter to make sure it has indeed been changed. And don’t let them talk you into new wiper blades, new air filters or high-priced synthetic oil, unless your car is one of the few high-performance machines built for it. Not replacing your air filter and wiper blades yourself. Buy them on sale at a discount auto-parts store rather than having a garage or dealer replace them. Replacement is simple for either part, a 5-minute job. A good schedule for new air filters is every other oil change in a dusty climate; elsewhere at least once every 20,000 miles. Treat yourself to new wipers (it’s easiest to buy the whole blade, not the refill) once a year. Going to any old repair shop. At the very least, make sure it’s ASE-certified (a good housekeeping seal of approval from the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence). From there, look for a well-kept shop with someone who’s willing to answer all your questions. Estimates must include a provision that no extra work will be done without your approval. Drive your car to make sure the problem is fixed before you pay. Pay with a credit card in case there’s a dispute later. Be courteous and pay attention. A good mechanic is hard to find. Changing your antifreeze every winter. Change it only when a hydrometer suggests it will no longer withstand temperatures 30 degrees below the coldest your area sees in winter. Your dealer or oil-change shop should be happy to check it for free. Every two years is about right. But you also should keep your cooling system happy by running the air conditioner every few weeks in winter to keep it lubricated, checking for puddles underneath the car and replacing belts and hoses before they dry and crack. Replacing tires when you should be replacing shocks. If your tires are wearing unevenly or peculiarly, your car may be out of alignment or your shocks or struts worn out. Letting a brake squeal turn into a brake job. Squeal doesn’t necessarily mean you need new rotors or pads; mostly, it’s just annoying. Your first check -- you can probably see your front brakes through the wheels on your car -- is to look at the thickness of the pads. Pads thicker than a quarter-inch are probably fine. If your brakes emit a constant, high-pitched whine and the pads are thinner than a quarter-inch, replace them. If your car shimmies or you feel grinding through the pedal, then your brake rotors need to be turned or replaced. Not complaining when your warranty claim is rejected. Check Alldata and the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) to see if a technical service bulletin (TSB) has been issued about the component in question. Manufacturers often will repair known defects outside the warranty period (sometimes called a secret warranty). It helps if you’ve done your homework and haven’t been a jerk. Not keeping records. A logbook of every repair done to your car can help you decide if something’s seriously out of whack. Didn’t I just buy new brake pads? With a log and an envelope stuffed with receipts, you’ll know who did the work and when, and whether or not there’s a warranty on the repair. And a service logbook helps at resale time, too. Buying an extended warranty. Most manufacturers allow you to wait until just before the regular warranty expires to decide. By then you should know whether your car is troublesome enough to require the extended warranty. Most of them aren’t worth the price. Overinsuring. Never skimp on liability, but why buy collision and comprehensive insurance on a junker you can probably afford to replace? Add your deductible to your yearly bill for collision and comprehensive coverage, then compare that total with the wholesale value of the car. If it’s more than half, reconsider. Assuming the problem is major. If your car is overheating but you don’t see a busted hose or lots of steam, it might be the $5 thermostat, not your radiator. Or it may be that ominous “check engine” light itself that’s failed, not your alternator. Not changing the fuel filter. Have it replaced as a part of your maintenance -- every two years or according to the manufacturer’s schedule -- rather than when it becomes clogged with grit, leaving you at the mercy of the nearest garage. Not knowing how to change a tire. Have you even looked at your spare? Make sure it’s up to snuff and all the parts of your jack are there. Changing a flat yourself is not only cheaper, it’s faster, too. Not keeping your tires properly inflated. Check them once a month; otherwise, you’re wasting gasoline, risking a blowout and wearing them out more quickly. Car washes. Ten bucks for long lines and gray water? Nothing shows you care like doing it yourself." Chris A.

Done and done. Nice cars, thanks for the pics Vic. Chris A.

Seems like a good idea. Wonder what kind of flow restriction occurs after the filter is installed? Chris A.

Won't argue with you about that. How about the different types of silicone out there now. When I started at my shop 16 years ago, we had one type. Stinky white RTV. Nowadays I can think of at least 5 different colors plus clear. And dispense it from a squeeze tube, aerosol can or caulking gun. Nuts:stupid: FWIW, Chris A.

Yep, clockwise on normal pipe threads. Being a right hander, I hold the fitting in my right hand and wind the tape around the threads with my left hand in a clockwise direction. You know you've done it right when you tighten the fitting and the very end of the tape isnt forced backwards. That seems confusing after re-reading it. But like you said, on a righty-tighty fitting the tape is indeed would clockwise. Chris A.

Tom is so right about teflon tape. Most folks don't use it properly and wrap it the wrong direction around the fitting. I use Permatex 59214 liquid thread sealant. Easy to apply and the joint can be repositioned up to 4 hours later. Good for oil, water, gear lube, power steering and brake fluid connections. FWIW, Chris A.

Hi Jeff, Welcome to the group. You wouldn't by chance be looking at Tom from Lincoln's car would you? I've not seen it personally as its been in storage under years of accumulated possesions. But I do know its the exact year and model Alan T. described for you. If it is Tom's car, its not the original engine. The L20 was removed due to mechanical failure and replaced with an L26 I believe. Anyway, its only an assumption on my part as there are NOT a bunch of Fairlady Z 2/2's running or hiding for that matter in Nebraska. Regards, Chris A.

Hi Rick, Thanks, and a happy holiday season to you and your family. Chris A.

Darn it, now I have to go shopping again. Thanks for the pic Enrique. Chris A.

Ooohh, skinny bumpers too. Wish I had space for her. Chris A.