aaron-san

i have a bout 30 minutes before i have to leave for work, so i took the boot off, and checked the inside, but it was no cracks or signs of wear on the inside, its only i little cracked on the surface where the clamp on the throttle body side goes. then i checked the labels, and the numbers dont match at all except that they're both marked for the L28, but the afm is black, and the comp. is green, i wonder if that could be a problem. im still going to do a check on the rest of the things mentioned, hopefully tonight or saturday afternoon. ill post how it goes. i also looked on ebay for a FSM, but i found none, so i might end up going to the dealer to get one in the next couple weeks. luckily i live in dallas, so courtesy nissan isnt too far away.

the boot is a little worn and split, so thats probably the big problem. the next thing i plan on getting is the afm and boot from msa, well ill probably get the electric fan since 2 of my fan blades shot off and i had to take it off. luckily they didnt go through the radiator though. im going to try to do a check on all those things mentioned, havent had any time in the last 2 days, ive had to work long days, so hopefully i will get to spend some quality time with her after i get off today. i really appreciate all the advice. thanks, aaron.

wheres the best place to get a FSM? i got the chilton because i needed a quick vacuum line diagram, which also proved to be useless, so i basically wasted $25. ive checked the timing with a timing light. it has brand new injectors and plugs, wires, etc. but the boot between the afm and throttle body is a little worn, do you think that could cause a big enough difference. also i forgot to mention, it does it mainly in 2nd gear and up. first gear it does ok, but after that, it sucks. i geuss i'll check all the things you mentioned, thanks for all the advice.

ill check to make sure the contacts are clean tomorrow.so your saying that even though the wires run up to the harness for the computer they may not be actually used by the computer? doesnt really make sense why they wold wire it like that, but then again it doesnt really make sense why almost every wire in the car would be white. my problem is my car runs rich, but then after 4000 rpm it loses power, badly, as it actually decelerates if i floor it. im thinking its just the air flow meter. im new to the z world, so im still learning a few things. sblake01, im the one that you helped with the afm adjustment. do either of you have any idea what could be wrong. thanks to both of you for your help. aaron

also mine doesnt have a 36, the highest is 35. i looked on the wiring diagram for 75 and 77 and they dont have one either, are you sure you got the right numbers? thanks for replying though.

look at the picture i attached, theres no male pins on the computer, so the wires (#20-21) in the harness plug into nothing, and thats what concerns me. i have a chilton guide and am looking at the wiring diagram. 21 goes through a cold start valve and then to the electronic fuel injection relay, 20 goes straight to the relay. but when i checked i think 21 actually only went to the relay, i'll have to look at my car again. i just need someone with a 76 280z to pop off the harness and tell if there are pins on the computer for 20 and 21 on the computer.

i looked at my computer on my 280z because i noticed two wires cut coming from the harness, but they only turned out to be control unit check wires, but i also noticed two wires on the harness, (#20-21 circled in red) dont have a corresponding pin on the computer, and these wires go to the fuel injection relay, and my cars fuel injection system is running a little weird. if anyone could help me by checking their computer. preferrably someone with a 76 just to make sure its the excact same. i appreciate any help. comp.bmp

well, its all scewed up in there anyways. someone who had it before me messed things up a bit, so now im trying to get it all straightened out. i think my AFM is just messed up too though. i'm just waiting to get the one from MSA. i really appreciate you checking that out for me though. hopefully this will make it run right. thanks again.

if anyone would be willing to help me out, i just need someone with a 280z to pop off the black cover on the left side of the air flow meter and push the needle all the way over to full open and let me know where the silver needle (indicated by the red circle) sits. i have a picture there i made in paintbrush with numbers so you can use that or if you just want to copy my picture and put a dot to let me know where yours sits at. i would really appreciate anyone thats willing to help me out. thanks, aaron. afm.bmp

i have a 76 280z. when i bought it, it had an adjustable risistor on the wire that i believe tells the computer how much fuel to send. but it was broke and would flip out sometimes so i found what ohm it was at when it was running good and just put a resistor in place. me and my ad looked at it and figured the mass air flow sensor was probably messed up, plus it looked like it had been taken apart before. my car was running fine though, just rich, until recently it looses power over 4000 rpm, badly in 3rd and 4th gear. my theory is its sensing too much air and sending too much fuel, because when im over 4000 rpms and step on it it backfires alot and boggs down and actually starts slowing down. and that would explain why it does it worse in 3rd and 4th gear because im going faster so theres more air for the engine. my friend was driving behind me one day and i did it and he said it actually shot a pretty big flame whn it started slowing down. so does my theory sound reasonable or could it be something else. sorry this is so long just want to let you know all the facts. if anybody knows anything id greatly appreciate it.

i recently bought a 76 280z 2+2, and like any old cars pieces are missing. all the pieces under the a/c control were gone. i managed to find one bracket at a salvage yard, but i think theres more missing. the only one i got is the one that connects to both sides of the center counsol. but it connects to nothing else and i dont see how it could hold a radio, or even how a radio could mount to it. anybody know what peices im missing? thanks.

i replaced all my boulbs in my 280z with red wedge bulbs. the stock bulbs are 53's and i put in 194 wedge bulbs and took the gauges apart to pop out the green caps. you just have to bend the conacts down and stick them through the slots in the bulb socket, then splice the wires and i extended them a little to make it easier. run them to the connectors and then wrap thm up with some electrical tape for security. a little brighter, but probably not as bright as leds would be. i would like to see that if you could get a picture, but i dont know if you could unless you have a digital camera where you can adjust the shutter speed to pick up the light.

i got a 76 280z 2+2, not much rust that ive seen so far except the rocker panels and a little on the rear panel before the rear wheel. i've checked MSA and VB but neither of them sell panels for the 2+2. i found a body shop that will cut it out and form new pieces to fit in. they want $2500 to do that and smooth out all the small dings, sand it down to the metal and do a color change to black. but i'd rather get replacement panels so i know they'll be closer to excact. anybody know where i can look or have any other suggestions. also does anyone know the difference in length and wieght for coupe vs. 2+2? i appreciate any help.