kmack

HEY!! Those are the two people I was looking for earlier!!!!

This was taken from a thread posted awhile back. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1309 Go ahead and replace the hoses. And do not use heater hose. I used that initially, but still had to replace them a few years down the road. The fuel vapors will harden the heater hose and cause it to crack, causing leaks. The only 2 hoses I've ever seen that needed to be replaced are the long 1/2" hose and the 5/8" hose w/ 180 degree bend. The short 1-1/4" hose from the filler neck to the expansion tank typically is fine. (I've looked at over 10 cars in junk yards and on everyone of them this hose was fine.) The 1/2" & 5/8" hose can be bought at any NAPA store for around $1.25 per foot. Not bad, but not cheap. Make sure you get the fuel line grade hose. I bought 5' of the 5/8" and 8' of the 1/2" hose when I did mine just to be on the safe side. To make the 180 degree bend you'll need a piece if 1/2" OD steel tubing (preferrably stainless) about 6" long. (Do not use copper tubing! The fuel will degrade the copper over time and could ruin your fuel system.) You can probably find a place that sells this (plumbing shop would be a good place to start) and they'll most likely be able to bend it for you. I used a bench mounted vise. Painfull and time consuming, but it worked. Once you have the tubing bent, just slide it in the 5/8" hose and hook it all up. It's pretty easy from there. While you're at it, you might as well replace the 3/8" hose going to the hard fuel lines and to the carbs if they haven't been changed already. Good luck and don't forget to drain the gas tank! It's amazing how heavy about 8 gallons of gas feels when it's sitting on your chest! Don't ask....

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1309 FWIW, EScanlon and myself provided some info about 2-1/2 years ago on this very same topic. Granted, it took me about 5 minutes to find the thread, but I found it. Good information for those facing this problem. Seerex, the boat place was going to rip you off on the hose. I paid about $1.25 per foot for the fuel lines at NAPA, including the 5/8" dia. hose.

The consensus is right. It really is easier to pull the engine out as a whole, then take it apart. Keep in mind, now that you have the head off, you'll have a harder time pulling the block out of the car since the hangers are typically mounted on the head. Where would you mount the hoist chains? On a side note, if this is an L24 block, in my experience there is not much of a market for selling the parts. I had one that was for sale for over a year that I could not get rid of, parts or whole. There was nothing wrong with it, other than it hadn't run in awhile. I ended up giving it away to get my garage space back. I also recently sold my running '73 L24, with recorded dyno paperwork, for only $100. I had it for sale for over 6 months. L24's just don't bring much money these days.

Yeah, I could have used the cop line this past February!

Snappy Answer #6 A flight attendant was stationed at the departure gate to check tickets. As a man approached, she extended her hand for the ticket and he opened his trench coat and flashed her. Without missing a beat she said, "Sir, I need to see your ticket, not your stub." Snappy Answer #5 A lady was picking through the frozen turkeys at the grocery store, but couldn't find one big enough for her family. She asked a stock boy, "Do these turkeys get any bigger?" The stock boy replied, "No ma'am, they're dead." Snappy Answer #4 The cop got out of his car and the kid who was stopped for speeding rolled down his window. "I've been waiting for you all day," the cop said. The kid replied, "Yeah, well I got here as fast as I could." When the cop finally stopped laughing, he sent the kid on his way without a ticket. Snappy Answer #3 A truck driver was driving along on the freeway. A sign comes up that reads "Low Bridge Ahead." Before he knows it the bridge is right ahead of him and he gets stuck under the bridge. Cars are backed up for miles. Finally, a police car comes up. The cop gets out of his car and walks around to the truck driver, puts his hands on his hips and says, "Got stuck, huh?" The truck driver says, "No, I was delivering this bridge and I ran out of gas." Snappy Answer #2 A crowded United Airlines flight was canceled. A single agent was rebooking a long line of inconvenienced travelers. Suddenly an angry passenger pushed his way to the desk. He slapped his ticket down on the counter and said, "I HAVE to be on this flight and it has to be "FIRST CLASS." The agent replied, "I'm sorry sir. I'll be happy to try to help you, but I've got to help these folks first, and I'm sure we'll be able to work something out." The passenger was unimpressed. He asked loudly, so that the passengers behind him could hear, "DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA WHO I AM?" Without hesitating, the agent smiled and grabbed her public address microphone. "May I have your attention please," she began, her voice heard clearly throughout the terminal. "We have a passenger here at Gate 14 who does not know who he is. If anyone can help him find his identity, please come to Gate 14. With the folks behind him in line laughing hysterically, the man glared at the United agent, gritted his teeth and swore, "F*** you!" Without flinching, she smiled and said, "I'm sorry, sir, but you'll have to get in line for that, too." And the VERY BEST snappy answer .... Snappy Answer #1 A college teacher reminds her class of tomorrow's final exam. "Now class, I won't tolerate any excuses for you not being here tomorrow. I might consider a nuclear attack or a serious personal injury or illness, or a death in your immediate family but that's it, no other excuses whatsoever!" A smart-arse guy in the back of the room raises his hand and asks, "What would you say if tomorrow I said I was suffering from complete and utter sexual exhaustion?" The entire class does its best to stifle their laughter and snickering. When silence is restored, the teacher smiles sympathetically at the student, shakes her head, and sweetly says, "Well, I guess you'd have to write the exam with your other hand."

It's been so long since I replaced u-joints in my car, I don't remeber if they had the rings or not. They look like the right ones, but I'm not 100% positive. Sorry...

You should be able to change out these u-joints just like the ones in the driveshaft. That being using a press to push the u-joints enough to get the caps out then, take the rest of the u-joint out. The caps should be a pressed fit. You might be able to use a fairly large vise, but a press will work easier and quicker. Or just take your half-shafts to a driveshaft shop and get them to do it. It shouldn't take them more than an hour or two to get all four done.

Talk about reviving an old thread.... This is an update to the dyno information I got last year. Last September I had the opportunity to rebuild my 71's original engine. '71 block, E31 head, new rings, gaskets, seals, Felpro head gasket, no machining to block or head, '71 SU's, 6-2 header, 2-1/4" exhaust, stock distributor, points, K&N filter in stock airbox. So this past Saturday, I finally had the chance to put the engine on the dyno to see what kind of difference it has compared to the old '73 engine. Man! What a difference it made!!!! 136.8 hp at the wheels!!!! Now keep in mind this is on the same dyno that was used last year, so the results will be fairly accurate. I couldn't believe it myself when I first saw it. I was only expecting to just break 130. But it's still running rich like it was last year. So on a subsequent run, I removed the k&N and airbox all together. 139.2 hp at the wheels!!!! That's almost 2.5 hp alone being trapped in airbox! I'm gonna be hacking that thing up for sure now! I haven't had the time to scan the dyno sheet in yet, but I will soon. Proof is in the paper! FWIW, San Antonio is at about 800-900 ft above sea level. Temp. was about 95* F and humidity was in the 80% range. Also, does anybody know what the rated hp figures are the JDM Fairladys w/ the L6 2.0L? We had one one the dyno also, but it only pulled 88 hp at the wheels. Seemed kind of low to everybody. Owner said he does regular maintenance on the engine and has had no signs of problems with that engine. It is a daily driver, too.

Somewhere in this site, EScanlon has a good technique for retrieving the center pins. Get some panty-hose and cut off one leg. Tape the open end of the "leg" around the end of the hose from a Shop-Vac. When you turn the vacuum on, it will suck the panty-hose into the hose from the vacumm. Now insert the vacuum hose into those hard to reach areas in the body of the car. Periodically, check the panty-hose for those center pins and anything else that is loose in your car. The panty-hose act as a filter on the vacuum, allowing you to catch the pins. Thanks for the info, EScanlon.

For anybody interested: May 22 & 23, 2004 - The Rio Grande Valley Porche Club will be hosting a 2-day High-speed Event with 2 separate track layout. A discount deal was set for Z drivers to help boost attendance. So far we have 3 early cars (2-240's, 1-280), 4-5 350Z's, a few 240SX's, and 1 race prepped Datsun Roadster that will be in attendance. I'm posting this for anybody in the South-Central Texas region that would like to come down and watch the Z Contingency whip up on the local Porches and Corvettes! It's good fun and the beach is 15 minutes away. If you want to run your car, you can do that also, but the discount was for early registration. RGV PCA Club for more information.

Basically, what John said above. Use a floor jack to support the tranny while stabbing it into the clutch/pressure plate. You'll need to raise/lower the tail shaft until you get it almost seated. at this point, you'll to make sure the splines on the input shaft line up witht he splines on the clutch disc. You may need to rotate the tranny slightly (usually no more than a few degrees rotation to either side). When the splines line up, it will 'clunk' into place and then slide easily on the alignment pins on the back of the engine block. Once that has happened, put at least one bolt into one of the two upper bolt holes on the bellhousing, and you can let it hang there until you get the rest of the bolts/mounts in place. A few words of advice: install the tranny without any fluid. It's lighter, and the fluid won't run out of the tail shaft housing all over the floor or you. If you have fluid on the tranny already, a spray paint can cap works pretty good to make a seal at the output shaft. It may not stop the fluid from leaking out the back completely, but it will work in a pinch. Otherwise, just use the driveshaft and let it hang while installing the tranny. Oh and get an extra set of hands to help out. Well worth it!

Don't what rates are in California as I'm in Texas, but $3k sounds a bit high to me. If you only have to replace seals, gaskets, and rings (assuming pistons, and lower bearings are still ok, ie: mileage isn't over 250k), then parts should only run in the $300-350 range. Now that does not include new valve guides, valve seats or any head work. I guess a lot depends on what condition your engine is in internally. Any signs the head might be warped?

Just finished swapping trannys last weekend, for the third time! Damn rear counter-shaft bearings!! :tapemouth I have a 6-2-1 header mated to a custom 2-1/4" exhaust and I never touch the exhaust system when dropping a transmission. I have found that you need to rotate the tranny about a 1/4 turn sometimes, but it just drop right out. If you have a stock exhaust, there should be no clearance issues. Also, for those of you with an early series I 240, the bell housing on the early 4-speeds is slightly larger than on later transmissions. Makes putting the later 4-speed or 5-speed in a lot easier.

Remember, it's "or best offer." I'm not the one selling them. You'll need to contact Troy or Kelli. I would have bought these myself, but I had just paid for my set on Monday and then found out about these on Tuesday. Going price here in San Antonio, mounted and balanced, is about $320 (Discount Tire). Yes, Vulcan Tire online has a pretty good price, but you'll still spend about $10-12 a tire to get them mounted.

True Texas native.... First 7 yrs in Houston, then moved about as far south in this country as you can get. San Benito, Tx (13 yrs) - parents house was less than 7 miles north of the Rio Grande. Then went to college in San Antonio, Tx. Been here ever since. Right now I'm about as far north and the highest elevation (about 800 feet) as I've ever lived. Wouldn't trade it for anything...:classic:

Posting this ad for President of Z-Sport: Set of 4 Falken Azenis Sports, 195/60R14 Almost 500 miles on tires, still brand new. Tires were installed on son's neon right before car was rolled. Tires still mounted on Neon rims. Asking price is $240 obo. Tires are located in San Antonio, Tx. Contact Troy or Kelli Elms at : telms@satx.rr.com

Panchovisa is right on the headers. On the dash swap, though, there are differences. All the mounting holes on the top of the dash (near the windshield) should be the same. It's the mounting holes under the center of the dash (where it mounts to the transmission tunnel) that will be different. Location of the fuse block is also different between the 240 & 260 which will require you to make adjustments. You could just swap out wire harnesses while swapping the dash, but then you'll run into problems with connectors on the engine bay harness and the rear wire harness. Why would you want to put a 260 dash into a 240 anyway?

This was the way I addressed mine. But I didn't swap out for a slightly longer rod. I just put a slight kink in mine and it took about 80% of the "stickyness" out of the throttle movement. If I ever decide to get the remaining 20% out, then I'll re-work my bell crank. But for now, it's SOOO much better!