kmack

I tried to find the article on their website....no dice. COuldn't find anything about it. Am I missing something?

I'll agree here again, Rick. My wife loves that show. I could care less. To me they're all a bunch of NYC puss...:tapemouth I mean wussies! I'll be glad when that show ends this year. And my wife wonders why I disappear into the garage during prime-time veiwing hours!

Thanks zrush. I'll to see about tracking down a set of those. Those would look great on my engine.

If the body has a lot of rust, you're better off parting it out. Pull all the usable stuff off and get rid of the rest. Only St. Stephen would buy a rust bucket! :cheeky: (Sorry) Not only will the individual parts store easier, you'll mostly get rid of the pieces faster by parting, than if you tried to sell the car as a whole. Ebay works nice for supplementing your car fund!

Carl, It's all paint. The air cleaner is the exact same paint as on the car. The block and valve cover are actually 1200* high-heat paint. I bought 3 different brands from 3 autoparts stores to see which one matched best. The brand from AutoZone (Dura-something) Universal Red matched near perfectly! It's about $4 a can, but has held up nicely to the heat of the engine. They have a 600* version of the paint, but I didn't want to take any chances with it peeling off. I used the same paint, but in black, on the headers. Word of advice: make sure you get your pieces very clean of dirt and what-not before you paint. I have a few spots on the headers that I could not get to and those areas have started to peel up from the heat. Also, this type of paint stays somewhat soft until heat is applied. So be careful. I had to redo the valve cover due to some of my carelessness in handling it. Once the paint has been heated (dried), it is rock hard. I've had the valve cover off 3 times so far and still no scratches from my sockets.

Thanks, Victor. It still needs a few more pieces to be color accented like the coil, engine bay light, and I'd love to find a set of red plug wires for it also. It's all just the little things now. What you can't see is that the block is the same color as the valve cover along with the pulleys. The timing cover was left aluminum to match the head. I've had one comment about that I should have left the engine bay red instead of painting it black, but I felt that would be too much red for the car under the hood. The black sets off the engine nicely, makes it stand out more.

Mine is the stock color... the same stock 905 Red color as my car! :classic: My engine Originally it was orange, but orange doesn't look good on a red car. The first blue ones were on the 280's with FI. I like my "stock" color better! :cheeky:

Actually, I have a thing for the Pit Boss, the one with the British accent, (something) Thomason, I can't remember her first name. But yes, Nikki Cox is pretty hot.

Trust me, you don't want to know about her. Just a stupid, arrogant, rich snob that has nothing better to do with her life.

Hey Rick, No offense meant, it's just the Wiggles aren't my cup-o-tea. Wouldn't have been even when I was a kid. They just don't seem to have much valuable content for children other than memorizing kid songs. (Just a parent's point of view) My all-time favorite kids show would have to be any of the old Warner Brothers cartoons, especially the roadrunner ones. As for some of them sit-coms on the tele today, I don't watch them. The only thing I like about Malcom in the Middle is the theme song. I sing that at work just to annoy people. It's also the ring on my cell phone! Other than movies, there are only four shows I watch on TV on a regular basis: WRC Rally coverage (Speed Channel) Monster Garage (Discovery Channel) American Chopper (Discovery Channel) Las Vegas (NBC) The latter being one that my wife has recently gotten me into. It's a 1 hour drama series that gets into the workings of a Hotel/Casino in Vegas but w/ a little bit of humor thrown into the mix. It's a good relief from all the darn doctor and lawyer shows. I'd love for all the sitcoms to go away. Most of the actors/actresses nowadays are over-paid cry-babies that think their backwards political views are more important than the freedoms most Americans hold dear. They think their $^!# doesn't stink. (Sorry that's a soap-box I don't want to step up to right now) The Networks need to start stressing more shows that have meaning or teach something. TLC and the History Channel are good ones that I think need to be included with public channels, not just as part of a cable package. Lots of good, informative and historically valuable programs. Which is sorely needed in this country. So yes, I agree with you that the sitcoms and all the reality shows need to be thrown in the trash. Especially that asinine Paris Hilton show which does nothing but make fun of good, honest, hard-working people and only make Paris look like a stupid bitch!:tapemouth

Oh and thanks for the "Wiggles" guys.... :tapemouth My daughter loves them and I can't stand them. Not that the "Teletubbies" are much better.... :stupid: :stupid:

Based on the information provided in the link you gave: The lower angle of positive caster on the left is the reason it pulls to the left slightly. Understandable now. I can (somewhat) adjust the angle of caster on the left by placing washers in front of the bushing, thereby pushing the tension rod out towards the front of the car. But this will again affect my toe-in, right? I just hate to think that if I make an adjustment again, then I'd have to go through the alignment process all over. (It's only the fourth time, due to other changes I've made) I don't think the bushing on the tension rod is too tight. I torgued both of them the same under load. But there is always room for error. So with 2 different caster settings, will I need to worry about any adverse handling or tire wear? I'm going to be looking for a new set of tires for Autocross and I want to make sure they don't wear faster than neccesary

I'll revive this old thread due to some questions I have regarding these issues: I just got the alignment checked on my 240 today. Had them set the camber to my specs (camber bushings installed) and set the toe-in to factory specs. Question has to deal with the measured caster. Here's what I got from the machine: ___________"L" "R" Camber: -.28* -.33* Caster: 1.08* 2.15* Toe-in is factory spec and I don't remember what the reading was. (They pulled the car off the machine before I could get them to print it out.) Above measurements are in degrees. Does anybody know how these caster measurements will affect the car's handling? Are they good or bad? I'm sure the higher measurment on the right is due to the sheetmetal work I had to do under the battery area during restoration. I can work around this if it is neccesary to change these numbers. Basically, I want to know if 1* of caster is better than 2* or vice-versa. The car is driven on the street rather irregularly and used to Autocross. I have MSA's Performance springs installed (blue in color). On a side note regarding slotting the strut towers for additional camber adjustment: Does anybody know at what measurement of movement of the strut equals what degree of camber change? Put another way, does 1/4"= 1* of camber change? Or something similar to that.

Home Depot or Lowes has the sticky-backed foam. Comes in varying thicknesses on a roll. Look in the area near the door sill plates. It is used for sealing around the doors, camper shells, etc.

Try getting in touch with Kyle (and there is someone else, but I can't remember his name) over at ZDriver.com They had an R/C Z shell made up and were selling them about a year or two ago. It's the only lead I know of.

When the transmission pops out of 3rd gear and into nuetral, are you under power or coasting? Either way, it is the 3rd gear synchronizer ring that needs to be replaced. If it jumps out of gear while under power, then you also need to look at the shift fork for 3rd-4th gear. The fork can wear down because of people driving with their hand resting on the gear shift lever. This forces the shift fork to wear prematurely and not allow the the synchronizers to fully engage, thus it pops out of gear unless you forcebly hold it in place. You need to pull the transmission out of the car and have it rebuilt. You may only need to have the 3rd-4th gear synchro's replaced (depending on how bad the rest of the transmission looks). Manual transmissions are fairly easy to work. Pulling the transmission out yourself will save you some of the labor costs if you have someone else rebuild it.

Sounds good, although it has been fairly chilly around here lately (I won't say it's been cold cause the "Northerners" will complain). I'm not planning to go anywhere this Holiday because I may have to work that Friday. Send me a PM if you want to try and meet.

Also keep in mind (if you don't already know) that the Nissan thermostats have a larger opening than the aftermarket ones. Allows for more flow and better cooling. They're not as cheap as the aftermarket ones, but neither is rebuilding the engine after overheating and cracking the head!

Sounds like the wire was grounding on the dist. and causing your problem. I would think the 195* thermostat is a little too warm for use on the track. I used to run an aftermarket thermo (195*) on the track and I could only go for about 10-12 minutes before the motor started running hot. This was on the stock radiator. I've now switched to a Nissan thermo (185*) and a 280ZX radiator. I can run hard for over 20 minutes now on the track and the needle never moves off the "T". I also checked my temp gauge using some resistors. 33 Ohms is supposed to put the gauge @ 195*, I believe. There is an article about this in one of the Sport Z magazine issues. I could only get to 32 Ohms. Anyway, at that reading my gauge was sitting right about between the "E" and the "M". So I know for sure that I'm running a little cooler now.

Two things you may be looking at here: 1) the fan may appear to be working but at speed (w/ the engine under load), the fan clutch may not be engaging and not turning at a faster speed with the engine. This will not allow for maximum cooling and cause you to run a little hot. With the engine warm or hot (not running), try to turn the fan. If there is little resistance, then the clutch is bad. 2) the cooling passages in the radiator be getting clogged up some. At idle there is not that much heat generated and the limited capabilities of a clogged radiator are still sufficient to keep the motor cool. At higher speeds though, the radiator won't have the capability to flow enough coolant. With the engine running and warmed up, place your hand on the front side of the radiator (opposite side of the fan). Feel for any spots on the fins that feel "cooler" than the rest of the radiator. This will tell you where the clogged areas are.

Hehehehe.... Carl, that was taken about 2 years ago when I was big into Civil War Scirmishing (shooting competition). That is my Confederate Infantry uniform. Here is a group photo - 2nd Texas Infantry, Confedrate Army (I'm 3rd from the left)

Here ya go... "The dark and mysterious Mad-Texan!"

Well since mperdue already posted his mug, I guess you mean me, right 240znz? Let me dig one up first. 2Many, I'm suprised it took you so long to post your's.