kmack

HEY!!! That looks like you took a picture of my fuse block before I fixed it! Same big gaping hole! The JB Weld will work , but there is a trick to keeping it in place while it sets up: Mix the stuff up and then let it sit for a bit before you put it in place. Let it get a little like a paste. Otherwise, you'll end up rolling the fuse block over from side to side to keep the stuff in place (it will want to flow out due to gravity) for the next few hours.

The fill hole will be located around the middle of the tranny about half way up the side. It is plugged with what looks like a regular pipe plug with a square head on it about 3/4" square. Fill until the fluid just begins to run out. And make sure the tranny is level when filling it up.

Ok, so if the "early" cars had the long pigtails, then how come my '71 Series I has the short ones on it? I even have the harness from a '71 Series II car (1 month newer than mine) that has the same short pigtails! Both were melted to some degree. On the topic of switching dash harnesses, you would have to switch the entire harness for the car to use a '73 dash harness on an earlier car. I tried this once. The plugs are slightly different where they come out of the dash and hook up to the body harnesses. It could be made to work, yes, but it would take a little time. texasz, You can repair the fuse block. Do as Dtsnlvrs suggested and clean up the contacts in the switch. Then remove your fuse block from the car and carefully clean all the contacts in the plastic block. Then take some JB Weld and rebuild the melted area of the fuse block. On mine, the plastic had melted so bad that the contacts were actually hanging in mid-air. A little JB Weld here and a little there, a few days to let everything setup real good, and I haven't had an issue yet in the last year and a half.

Mexia (pronounced 'me-hia') is about 25-30 miles east of Waco. I bet you were even pronouncing it wrong, weren't you!:classic: Dead Roman, I wish you would have popped up a year or two ago. I was looking to have a few things done back then, but they all have paint on them and I don't have the funds for any thing now. But will keep you guys in mind for later projects.

I have had only one issue with them and it was a similar case. They shipped some parts to me last year but it went to an old work address that I quit some 6 years ago. They claimed it the last "ship to" address they had for me. I had specifically told to ship to my house (which hasn't changed in almost 9 years). I had also been receiving those periodical flyer mailings at my house. I couldn't see why they shipped to an old address. Luckily, I had contacted them when my package didn't arrive when they said and they told me where it had been shipped to. And fortunately, I still knew people at my old work that could help arrange for me to pick it up, even though it 25 miles out of my way to go get it. But I will continue to do business with them their prices are good (on most items) and they still have fairly good service with people that know and love the cars that we know and love. On a side note: I ordered a carpet set from Too Intense Restoration and they shipped me a seat apholstery kit! I had already finished my seats so this was of know good to me. They corrected the problem at no cost to me, but I still had to wait another week for my carpet to get in.

Not to go against the grain here, but if he wants to race the guy, it's his choice. At least he's planning on doing it at a track under a controlled environment and not out on the street. Based on the specs you provided on the Del Sol, even with the VTEC, you still might have a shot at winning, unless your tranny is not in good shape. Keep in mind that a stock 280Z can make 150 hp at the wheels! The specs listed for the Del Sol I assume are factory specs which are rated at the crank. You have to figure a 15-20% loss to through the drivetrain. The weight difference bewteen the 2 cars is alnost a wash. That leaves only the driver's experience and the condition of the auto tranny. If it slips too much while shifting, you'll probably lose. But then again, if this other kid is that stupid about his car, then he probably can't shift either! Hell, he may even think shifting from low1 to low2 to drive is what makes a standard! PrOxLaMuS©, I think you have a pretty good shot to beat this person. My 240Z makes 127 hp at the wheels. I know I could easily beat the base Del Sol and give a VTEC a run for their money! A 280 has another 20-25 hp on tap. Good luck, man. As for everyone else, I know I'll get a few flames for my comments, but hey, that's racing!

As long as the spacers do not change the overall center line of the wheel with respect to the orignal car's stock wheel center line, then you will be fine running a wheel spacer. If the spacer pushes the wheel centerline out past the stock center line mark, then you start putting undue stress on the wheel bearings. The amount of stress is dependent on how far outwards the wheel's center line ends up.

I had 215/60/R14 Yoko's on once with no problems. I currently have 205/65/R14 Falkens on my car with lowered springs and I have no issues either.

If it won't go into gear with the engine running, but will with the engine turned off, then the problem is in your clutch. Either you have no pressure from the master cylinder or the slave cylinder is leaking. Try bleeding the clutch system and see if that helps. If not then look at the slave cylinder (mounted on the tranny bellhousing) first.

Well I just got my tank back from Gas Tank Renu Service for the warranty. Big kudos to them for fixing my tank with no cost to me what-so-ever! They sent my tank to Michigan (home office) to have all the old Renu process baked out. The tank was then checked over to make sure no repairs were needed. This process took almost 3 weeks. Then my tank was shipped back to Houston to have the Renu process put back on my tank, and then it was shipped to me. Total down time was about 4 weeks. Not the greatest, but I didn't have to pay any shipping costs at all. Only 2 downsides to this (besides the down time) - 1) They kept my drain plug. No big deal really, it's only a $2-$3 part. 2) They kept the o-ring seal for the sending unit. Not a big deal either, I needed a new one anyway, just wish I had known during the wait. Other than those issues, I would fully and continually recommend the use of Gas Tank Renu's services to anybody with an old or new car. They make a good product and if something does happen to it, they stand by their warranty, no questions asked! Btw, they mark every tank they do with an ID tag. Mine now has had 2 tags!

Well I just got my tank back from Gas Tank Renu Service for the warranty. Big kudos to them for fixing my tank with no cost to me what-so-ever! They sent my tank to Michigan (home office) to have all the old Renu process baked out. The tank was then checked over to make sure no repairs were needed. This process took almost 3 weeks. Then my tank was shipped back to Houston to have the Renu process put back on my tank, and then it was shipped to me. Total down time was about 4 weeks. Not the greatest, but I didn't have to pay any shipping costs at all. Only 2 downsides to this (besides the down time) - 1) They kept my drain plug. No big deal really, it's only a $2-$3 part. 2) They kept the o-ring seal for the sending unit. Not a big deal either, I needed a new one anyway, just wish I had known during the wait. Other than those issues, I would fully and continually recommend the use of Gas Tank Renu's services to anybody with an old or new car. They make a good product and if something does happen to it, they stand by their warranty, no questions asked! Btw, they mark every tank they do with an ID tag. Mine now has had 2 tags!

Might be my memory failing, but I thought that the ZX distributors had a small, black (in color), sealed box that contained some of the electrical stuff for the ignition mounted on the side of the distributor. It's been a long time since I've actually looked at a ZX engine, so I may be wrong here. Check out this site, look under item 7 - ignition. You'll have to scroll down a bit, but there is a picture of the black box I'm talking about. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Anybody else, have a better clue of what's going on here?

landmizzle, If you have an air compressor, just run down to Wally-Mart or Harbor Freight and buy one their spray guns (less than $40). You'll get a pretty good paint job out of those. That's what I've used so far and I've no problems or bad comments about the paint on my car.

Also, check out mperdue's site. Has the name and codes of the colors along with a few picture samples. http://www.utdallas.edu/~perdue/paintcodes.html

Here are some things from the ad that just don't make sense: What is a "model 296"? "No visible rust", because it's hidden under the floor mats.... "No damage to seats or carpet." What's with the tan deck carpet, then? "A/C not working properly....Everything works." Need I say more? "It will need brake work....he assured me that the engine and transmission where strong and in perfect working condition." How did he find this out if he couldn't drive the car? "...a few minor repairs will have this car looking as good as the day it came from the Datsun dealer." Oh, and replacing floor pans on Z's is such a typical job now that it's not considered major anymore? "Also included with this auction are 2 rims with snow tires." That's a very bad sign right there. The fact that it had a set of snow tires and hasn't been driven since '85! That's scary! So much for being "garage kept and babied from day one." Damn, listen to me And I didn't even go look at the thing!