kmack

I don't know that I can give you a definitive answer, but here is some info that might help. According to the 3 L24 engines I have (71,72,73), the timing marker plate must have been changed btwn 72 & 73. Both the 71 and 72 timing chain covers have a marker plate (1/2" wide, single point) mounted just above the oil pump. The 73 timing chain cover has a marker plate (2" wide, multiple degree points) mounted below the distributor. Since you have a '71 car (and I assume the engine is of the same vintage) I believe you should be looking for the single point type plate, which will bolt onto the cover just above the oil pump. I don't know why this is the case, but this is what I have determined from viewing the 3 engine I currently have. Good luck on this and if anybody has a reason as to why Nissan did this, please share it with us.

Personally, I don't think it's a Caddy....to generic looking. Caddy's have a little more style than that. It's definitely of the Impala/Caprice body style for sure. Ought to know, my Dad rebuilt 4 wrecks of those things back in the day. But the hub caps say it's either a Caprice Classic or Pontiac Parisenne (which is basically the same thing).

On my car in dealing with the door seals, I can't say for sure that the seals were harder or not. Before I took my car apart, I don't remember having to slam the door very hard. But then it sat apart for 5 years, it's easy to forget little things like that. And the old seals were shot. When putting it all back together, yes I did have to make some adjustments on the doors, but I would have had to make them anyway. I took everything apart. I'm still doing minor adjustments to the doors as time progresses and the seals seat themselves some. I really think the problem people incounter with the doors not shutting properly is that the door may have been adjusted to the old seals. Then of course, the new seals will make it hard to shut again. I'm not saying that this is the case all the time, but I'm pretty sure it happens quite often and everyone just blames the seals. (Although, I don't really have a strong comparison to new OEM seals. I'm happy with the Precision Replacement product I received from MSA.)

FYI, I bought my seal kit from MSA. VB and MSA are pretty close in price, but MSA will beat VB's price. Good to know. I also liked the quality of MSA's kit. I've heard a lot of people talk about the quality of the kits from Precision ?? (I can't remember the full name). MSA's kit is the exact same thing, only less expensive. Make sure you geta tube of the black weather strip adhesive. #m and Permatex make good ones. You can use the yellow stuff, but it will show up more than the black will. Good luck.

Hey guys/gals, Those that have had trouble finding the original fiberglass headlight buckets, place your bids now! I just saw a pair up for grabs on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2417492517&category=33644

If you have some mechanical ability, and a basic understanding of how carbs work, them I'd take them off the car, take them apart and clean them really good. There are quite a few good articles here and at www.zhome.com for getting them retuned. worth a consideration if you can't find anything else wrong with them.

A large diameter pipe gives better breathing at higher rpm's, therefore giving better power in the upper rev range. The tradeoff is you loose some of your low-end response. Not so much loosing power, just some of the quickness off idle. If you have a basically stock motor (L24,L26, and even a stock L28) then you should really stick with 2-1/4" system. The 2-1/2" system will resonate really bad and with a stock motor, you won't notice any difference in performance. Now if you have a ported/polished, shaved head, wild cam, triples, etc. L28, then by all means use the 2-1/2" system. You'll love it!

Is Carrera still around? We used a set of coil overs on a research project vehicle about 8 years ago. Those were very nice!

I have a FSM for the '71 and can make copies for you that can be faxed if necessary, but since you have your Chilton's manual that should work. Just out of curiosity, where are you taking the car to get inspected? Failed because "the HI/LO beam indicator was not working"? Sounds like one of those State run inspection boxes. Those guys will hit you for every little thing wrong with the car and then try their damndest to charge you an additional inspection fee. And yes they notice if any of the smog equip. has been removed. My advice, take the car a local mechanic shop (not a chain/franchise shop) and get them to inspect it. It will go much easier, trust me. Ps-Stay away from any shops located within a few miles radius of the DPS headquarters off Lamar St. DPS officers watch those shops like hawks. My uncle used to work at the Texaco across Lamar from the DPS HQ's. He said you see the officers on top of the bldg with binoculars watching them give inspections.

Looks like it used to be somebody's old race car. Good look to it, but I think it'd look better as a black car. Would give it a more meaner stance to it. I've seen a car in Austin, TX that had the front done like this. They used a set of 4 fog lights up under the hood for headlights. Nice clean look. Congrats on the car, and enjoy the ride....

Go to www.zhome.com If you search through, you'll find a good article about tuning up the SU's. It's really quite easy. Or got to: http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/ Under "Tech", then "SU carb tuning". Kyle (who is a member here (but mostly on the email list)), has put another good article on tuning. Just make sure the first thing you buy is a UniSyn, for synchronizing the carbs.

I would first get under the car and try to determine where the leak is actually coming from. That will help in finding out what is causing the leak.

I'm suprised you missed this one, EScanlon! It is my understanding that there were no "S30" models ever sent into the U.S. The S30 I think is a Japanese or European market only model. (Alan, is this correct?) All the US spec models were left-hand drive, hence the HLS30 designation. And if you look real close at the VIN plate, you can clearly see "HLS30" on it. And that 280 lower front valence sticks out like Janet Reno in a bikini at the Playboy Mansion! :sick:

No. You have to disconnect the filler tube at the gas tank, as it is installed into the car from through the fill door. You can detach them at the tank. Most likely, if your car has been sitting for quite awhile or the hoses have never been replaced, they will crack and break. And you should look at replacing them anyway. There are a few threads that outline the procedure on that or I can send you an article I wrote for our club newsletter on it. If the lines are in good shape, you can disconnect them from the expansion tank and the route them out of the car through the floor. As long as you have most or all of the gas out of the tank, it's fairly light. When putting it back in, I lay under the car with the tank on my chest, hoist it up into position, and then use my knees to hold it there while I put the straps back in place. I wouldn't worry too much about the weight. One to keep in mind when sliding the fill tube back into place; it may not want to go back on very easy. I use a light coat of vaseline or spray lubricant to help it back on. Just a thought.

Tanny, since I've had my tank out a few times (more than i want to mention), I'll take a stab at the process. Of course you'll want to drain as much gas as you can get out of the tank. The is a drain plug on the bottom in the center. Disconnect wires from fuel gauge sending unit. Disconnect fuel pick up and return lines from tank (right next to sending unit). I then loosen the straps holding the tank up. I don't take them off, just loosen the bolts up so the tank will drop down but still hang in place. Then I start working on disconnecting the vent lines. Starting with the one on the driver's (exhaust) side of the tank. That allows that side of the tank to fall a little further so you can then reach the vent line that is on top of the tank (about in the middle, right up against the rear valence). Now you can disconnect the 3rd vent line and main fill tube (from fill door). There is a big clamp on the fill tube, don't lose it. It's hard to find another one. Once all of those lines have been disconnected, then finish taking the straps off, and remove the tank from under the car. You can get the tank out from under the car without the use of jack stands (as long as it isn't lowered), but it's much easier with the extra room that jack stands provide. Hope that helps.

My thought is that the collector pipe would bolt up, but I don't know for sure. I've only ever dealt with 240's.

Soaking the threads of the strap bolt is good, but also take a small wire brush and clean out threads. They see a lot of road grime over the years and all kinds of gunk can build up in those threads. And that is what is making it difficult to get the nut off.

Keep in mind I have an early series car. So I don't have the bushings you have at the transmission. I just have one single rubber mount attached to the transmission. The bar that bolts up to the body, is bolted up from the bottom (not the side) with no bushings what-so-ever. So here's a question.... What would happen is you elimenated the rubber engine and tranny mounts for hard, fixed mounts? Does there have to be some flex to help with the torque of the motor? Or can the engine and tranny be hard-mounted to try and transfer that energy back into the driveline?