kmack

I hadn't forgot. Just didn't want to think about those at the moment. They are too hard to deal with, ya know.....

You should not have to re-route any fuel lines around the electric pump. As long as there is no clog in the elec. pump, the mechanical will pull fuel right through it.

I already have the adjustable control arm bushings, which I presume are urethane (or some other form of very hard plastic). The rear control arms are next on the list, too. With adjustable bushings. I'm going to be "testing" everything out on Saturday during a "Driver's Education" event. Really it's just an over-grown AutoX layed out on an old airport's runways. 1 lap is 1.8 miles. I know how the old suspension sucked, now I'll see how much better this new setup is.

I should have heeded all of you guys' advice long ago, but the cheap-bastard in me steadfastly disagreed. Urethane bushings ROCK!!! I was in the process of changing my old rubber brake lines to braided stainless when I got to looking seriously at the 1 year old rubber bushings on my sway bars. "Man those things look like they're 20 years old!", is what came to mind. So a quick trip down to PepBoys for a set of Energy Suspension urethane end link bushings ($9.70 w/ tax) and I'm set. Keep in mind, at this same time I'm also swapping old, tired, stock springs for a set of new performance springs (bought from another z'er, so I don't remember the brand name). So now here is what I have: SS brake lines EBC Green Stuff pads (front) Raybestos shoes (rear) Performance springs (stiffer and shorter) generic strut carts. (yes I know, they're next on the list) urethane sway-bar bushings Reaction? I have a totally new car compared to what I had on Sunday!!! OMG!!! Why didn't all you guys that swear by urethane bushings smack me in the head earlier? Rubber bushings suck......

Yes your car can run on either the mechanical or the electrical fuel pump. Most often (on the '73 cars in particular), it was the electrical pump that went out first and then the mechanical failed. If it was me, I'd buy a mechanical pump because it's less expensive and easier to install. Then when you have time down the road (and more money), search out a a replacement electrical pump as a back up.

Not that I'm trying to jump up on anybodies soap-box here, but I kind of have to agree with tanny here on this one. I don't understand your statement, Lowell. So they were too lean to meet emission standards. If you richen them up so they run right, then they are polluters! Take one stand or the other, Lowell. Make up your mind. Also, your tag says you're an original owner of a '72. Ever have to work on a set of flat tops and make them run? Trust me, it can be done, but it's not easy. Taking my step down....

FWIW: The Gabriel VST's (yes I know, el cheepo's) that I put on my car last year specifically stated to add oil and it even told how much (in cc's), although I don't have the paperwork anymore to tell exactly what that qty was.

Now that's sick!! :sick:

Even though driving my Z at a fast pace or in an autoX on the edge is pure heaven, I'd still have to say sex is king! As for the impending discussion between which is better: wife or car? All I know is that I can always depend on "Rosie and her four sisters" when the car or the wife breaks down and won't perform!:classic:

The car has been SOLD.

Man, I have been here before.... You can get away with just patching this area, but for the price it's better to just get a set of floor pan panels. These can range from $150-$300 depending on the "correctness" of the panels. The repair itself is pretty easy is you are somewhat competent with a welder. Otherwise, find someone that will do the work *and* do a good job. Since you're in Dallas, contact the Z Club of Texas (a link is posted in this site in the links section). There are quite a few people up there that will be willing to help.

If I have any free time to spend on the computer, 98% of it is spent cruising here. Another 1.8% is checking my email, and the other .2% is spent btwn ebay and zcar.com. This is the best place for information and the nicest Z crowd as far as I'm concerned. And I proudly wear my classicZcar.com hat anywhere I go!

Marty, I haven't bought one yet, but I know others that have and have used them. Most will come in a sort of kit, with different adapters for the spark plug holes. The spark plugs on the L series engines are 14mm. I don't know the thread pitch, sorry. The tester kit should have an adapter for this size as it's a pretty common plug size. Where to buy one: Sears, PepBoys, AutoZone, Advance, O'Riley's, etc.... PepBoys and Sears will probably be on the high side of the price range. I have seen the testers for sale at Harbor Freight's website for $29, but I haven't seen them in the actual store here in town. Worth checking out though. The process for using it is straight forward and simple. Plug the tester into one cylinder, crank the engine over a few times (get at least 3 full compression cycles) and the guage on the tester reads and locks the highest pressure reading. Write it down and compare with the other cylinders and diagnose your troubles. Good luck.

If you want serious suspension, then go with coil overs from Ground Control. but it's going to be expensive. Next step down is adjustable struts. These are nice. I don't currently have them, another member here does, and with them set on 3 (out of 5) his car is rock solid! They run somewhere between $125-150 each. Then get urethane bushings all around. New rubber bushings are nice, but they tend to have a little "give" in them. The urethane ones, don't move at all. Nice firm ride. A full urethane bushing kit is very reasonable, it's next on my list of things to do for autoX. As for springs, most springs that are available today will lower your car and increase the stiffness of the ride some.

One thing that will help us diagnose your richness is to find out exactly which carbs you have on the car. The '73 cars originally had Hitachi carbs, but they were slightly different to the earlier type carbs. The orig. ones were round, but the transition from the top horizontal part to the vertical side of the carb body was at a 90* angle. These are called flat tops. There earlier carbs had a more rounded transition and therefore they are called round tops. This link shows a good view of the "round tops": http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=5279&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 If you have the flat tops, then our first suggestion is going to be "throw those boat anchors away!" They are very hard to adjust. this info needs to be determined first.

Hmmm.... this could get long, but I'll try to keep it short. Started out I had no radio in my car so it was just the scream of a tightly-wound L6! But now.... Hard-Rock: Metallica, Rob (White) Zombie, Powerman 5000, Godsmack, Disturbed, P.O.D., Nickleback Some Country (only in the garage, though) Classic Rock: Rush, Aerosmith, Van Halen, AC/DC, Jimmy Hendrix, more AC/DC, more Rush Old-School Punk: Sex Pistols, Black Flag, Circle Jerks, Dead Kennedy's (unfortunately all I have left is on vinyl )

It does appear to have some sort fo damage, but I don't think it from an impact. The "crease" only appears to be in the actual skin of the bonnet (hood, sorry I'm a Texan). The structural areas (around the perimeter) do not show signs of bending. Otherwise you see the crease all the way across. It's hard to tell without seeing the damage close up and not being able to see the other side of the hood. Although one easy way to detect bondo is to scrape the paint. If you see metal, then you only have a scratch. If you see plastic, you have a lot more than a scratch.

I have an E31 and an E88 head sitting on my garage floor right now. Well, actually the E31 went up on the engine last night. Anyway, they both have square exhaust ports. Only the intakes are round.

slvrhase, So far nobody has staked a claim on the car. When do you want to come down? And the rotisserie stands will fit inside the car, FWIW.

Here is the original list of parts with better prices. I still need to get rid of some of this stuff: 1 set of 280Z tail lights - $30 Skid pan for 280Z - $15 280Z Horn button - $ 10 240Z Horn button - $10 240Z steering column cover - $6 240Z Glove box (interior paper box) - $20 240Z wiper motor - SOLD 240Z Speedometer - $20 240Z Tach - $20 240Z Turnsignal/Ligth switch (early 240, both switches) - SOLD 240Z Ligth switch (late 240) - $20 Aluminum Louvers (black) - $30 Complete set of hatch Chrome Trim Strips - $15 Hatch Chrome Trim Strips (missing small pcs, some dents) - $5 Turbine Style wheels, set of 4 (w/ tires, no center caps) - SOLD 280ZX Headlight Buckets - $20/pair Buyer pays shipping costs.

Thanks, guys. I'll let you know how it turns it out when I fire up the motor. Hopefully soon!

I'm almost ready to put the head back on my original engine, but I was wondering what, if any, "form-a-gasket" type stuff I should use while installing the gasket. I'll be using a Fel-pro head gasket. No mods made to engine other than general clean-up and repair. When I pulled it apart, there was a silvery residue on the block and the head, but I don't what it was. Also, the new gasket says to use no sealant, but the old gasket was a fel-pro also and it obviously had something on it. I'm pretty sure this motor was never before taken apart, either. PO before me had the car since '72. Any ideas, suggestions?

Too bad you can only pick one catagory! I wanted to vote for 4 or 5 of them!

Yes I have a clear Texas title.

Ok here the deal.... I still have this car. I have a rotisserie built for this car. I will sell the rotisserie and the car for $125. If no one comes to get it within 2 weeks, it's going to get chopped up and hauled off. Sorry guys, I can't hold onto this one any longer. It has to go, one way or the other. (I prefer someone picking it up over crushing it.)