kmack

If everything flows through the rest of the engine without any problems, then I assume it's just the intake manifold that clogged, correct? If this is true you can do 2 things: 1) take a coat hanger and try to push it through the coolant line in the manifold (should be a straight shot right through to the other side). This should help break up/loosen any crud build up inside the line, then you can try to flush it some more. 2) Just bypass the manifold. I'm not running any coolant through my intake manifold right now and have not been for almost 6 months. Plus I know many people who do not. No adverse effects yet.

The door window glass is not a "straight" piece. It has a bow to it from top to bottom. If you do use lexan or something similar, you'll need to heat it some and bend it to simulate the bow of the original glass. You can use the chrome window channel as somewhat of a guide. Short of that, start checking some of your local scrap yards. Somebody is sure to have an old Z laying around that might still have the glass. The glass should be the same from '70-'78. Hope this helps...

If you were registered for the 2002 National ZCCA Convention, then you also got one. I did. It gives a pretty good account of the Z's history along with some really good racing shots, then goes into how the 350Z came about into production.

3) Blue smoke under acceleration usually means your rings are shot and you're getting oil past them. This will mean the engine will need to be pulled and the rings replaced. And while you're there refresh all the gaskets too. Complete gasket sets will set you back about $70. Ring sets are $40 from Victoria British. I agree with Carl on the reverse switch. There should be one in the tranny already unless the PO took it out completely and then hopefully he at least put a plug in the hole. I have yet to see an inspection station check for operating reverse lights in the last 14 years here in Texas, so that should not keep you from getting your inspection. The seat belt probably has some trash in it making the retract mechanism not function. Pull it out and try to clean all the dirt and junk out of it and it should work fine. I once had the paper covering from a soda straw jam one up on me. Of all things... As for the shifter bushings, check with Courtesy Nissan right there in your own backyard. They are a big time supporter of Z clubs and you can most likely get the bushing set from them just as cheap as from MSA plus you won't have to pay shipping. BTW, very nice looking car!

There is a lady that belongs to our club (Z-Sport) here in San Antonio. She shows up every once in a while to a car show and brings her '70 240. It's red w/ a white vinyl top. And she's the original owner. I'm not to keen on the vinyl tops myself. Just really a moisture trap if you ask me. I'm trying to find a pic of this lady's car but I can't get one right now.

Well, I wasn't really talking about polishing the stems, just the face of the valve that is inside the port (not the cylinder side). Biggest advantage I can see is that you would have a smoother surface and would have less carbon deposits. Thereby keeping the size of the opening (at the valve) the same. (I hope I explained that well.) I realize there is no advantage, horsepower-wise, to just polish the valves and not the rest of the head. I was just curious if it made a big enough difference if included in a port and polish situation. I will port match the head and manifolds when working on this motor, but at this time I don't think I'll polish the head yet. I've got a tired (somewhat) motor in the car right now, and I'd really like to get this one running and in the car. I'll leave the port and polish job until I get an L28 for the car.

I'm getting started tearing down my original motor for my 240Z. L24 w/E31 head. I'm going to refresh it and possibly do a little porting on the head (maybe). My plan is to run SU's, stock cam, 6-2 headers, Crane XR700 ignition. My question then: Is there any benefit to polishing the valves (intake and exhaust)? In theory I should get better flow across the valve along with lessening the possibility of carbon being deposited (hard to stick to a smooth surface). But is there any real measurable increase in performance? Should I even bother?

I used the foam tape the EScanlon describes under my fenders. I got it at Home Depot where they have their door thresholds and weatherstripping. It comes on a roll in varying widths and doesn't cost more than about $6 for the roll. Most widely used use is for sealing between truck beds and campers.

Kyle (one of the moderators on this site and a member of the email list) had a similar problem when he put his L28 back into his 240. Apperently there is a little bit of a clearance issue when using the L24 fan on a L28 block with a bigger radiator (3-4 row). When it's all sitting still everything is fine, but when running at high rpm's, the fan will flex enough and hit the radiator. I'm not sure what Kyle has done to fix this problem but he was working on it about a month ago. ps-there were no cracks in his fan either.

All good ideas when first starting up an engine that has sat for awhile. My suggestion is after you drain and refill the oil, pull the valve cover and pour oil over the cam. Pull the plugs and squirt a little into the cylinders. Then turn the motor over by hand to help coat the inside of the cylinder walls. I will usually pour a can of CD-1 Restore or Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine as well. It helps to loosen up some of the crud build up inside the motor. Since you're dealing w/ FI here, give all the rubber fuel lines a good once over. If you spot any cracks in the lines, replace them now. Once pressure builds up in them, you run the risk of them popping and then starting a fire. (Just talked to a guy last night whose 300ZX caught fire because of this exact same thing.) I would also not run the motor hard (high revs) until it has reached operating temp. and then some. Give it a chance to get settled back with itself before you really push it.

When pulling a head off the block, is there anyway to tell if the seats have been replaced with hardened seats?

You don't need another one, 2many...

I know a few Porsche people that run these tires and they like them better than the Kumhos. Supposedly one step up from a race only tire. This site also has some pretty good prices, better than tire rack. http://www.victoriatire.com/tires.html?cart=104490442311215673&brand=Falken&NAME=Azenis%20Sport

This is information posted off the emial list a few years ago. Hope it helps.

I have a pair, too. But they are a take off of the Mechanix gloves. Actually, they are made by the same company but they don't say Mechanix on them. Cost $12 at PepBoys and they are bright red to match my car! I know, I know.....having matching gloves with your car is kind of girlish, but hey, why not? I have also put mine through the wringer. They have been soaked in transmission and engine oil, grease, dust, etc. you name it they've been in it. When your done, throw them in the washer, then the dryer, and they come out good as new. I wouldn't trade them for anything. Only complaint I had was that initially, it was hard to get used to not having that "at your finger tips" touch. But you do get a feel for them after awhile. And for working around a hot engine, you can't beat 'em!

Oooh! So just because you have over 2000 posts, you think you're a know-it-all, huh?

I used 3/8" NTP flush pipe plugs in my manifold. But then again I also sawed off the injection tubes and then proceeded to drill out the threaded pieces in the manifold. They were too rusted in place to even try to unscrew them. Total process took less than an 2 hours (using a hacksaw, 3/8" portable drill, and a NTP thread tap). Ran it on the car for a few months and never noticed any leaks.

Is it strictly limited to families in CA?

"If it's easily repairable thats one thing but if it isn't it might have to be a donor car." Don't let St. Stephen hear you say that!!!!

I have lubed mine also. Specifically the bell crank (polished the shaft on it even) and the piece mounted on the balance tube. I got very little improvement in doing this. I thought about this on the way to work this morning, has anybody thought about or tried a secondary helper spring? We already have the return springs, what about a helper spring to help overcome the initial "sticky-ness"?

I have this same problem. Makes starts from a dead stop (while next to Mr. Officer) a real chore. Daniel, do you have any pictures of what you did to correct yours? Or what the parts look like? Biker, I've seen that article before and it pasically says to cut the welds of the top arm on the throttle linkage bellcrank mounted on the firewall. If someone doesn't have a welder it makes putting it back together a little tricky. I'm looking to try it, but I want a spare bellcrank first before I go hacking up my good one. Anybody have any other solutions?

Very cool videos! I loved them. I just did my first trip around a track (airfield actually) 2 weeks ago. I had no idea of how far you could push a car on a track. Especially one that is set-up right. One thing I noticed from your videos was that at first glance it looks like you're not really pushing that hard. But then I started watching your key chain! :eek: Great stuff. I'm planning to get some footage on my next trip. If I can get it put into the computer, I'll post it up.