kmack

I assume the speedo gear in the tranny to be the stock original for this car. And it looks like I may have a 3.90 then. I'll jack it up and check this out soon to make sure. Thanks for the help.

Well, since I finally got to drive my car for the first time to work today, I have a question. The PO has told me that at one point they had put a 5-speed in this car. I can't get him to confirm whether or not they replaced the differential or not, though. Which leads to my question. I have the original 4-speed (A-Type) in the car. 215/60/r14 Yokohama S306 series tires. At 75 mph, the rpm's are at 4100. 60 mph is around 3200 rpm, but I can't confirm that reading like I can the 75 mph one. Anybody have a way to figure out what my final gearing is in the differential? Car is a '71 Series I if that helps.

I have this left over from my motorcycle days (which aren't completely gone!). I have what is called a "Battery Tender". It comes with either clips or a hard mount plug adapter that connects to the battery. It charges at a rate of 1-1/2 Amps and will shut off automatically when fully charged. Then if your battery drains a little, it will turn back on and charge until the battery is fully charged again. This unit will set you back about $45-50, but it works great for a car that sits long periods of time without being driven.

I found the guy through a friend of a friend. I'd check out the local Friday night car shows and start asking around. Ask the people who have rebuilt their cars and they will know somebody that could do the work. You might ask a few welding shops if they know of anyone that does work on the side or on the weekends. Check with some of the car shops also.

I found a guy that does welding out of his house. 3 days and $150 later, I had a new passenger floor pan and new firewall/battery box area. The work is not the most professional, but it's stout. All of the welds inside the car are covered, and most of them on the firewall are covered by the battery.

I'd be interested to see what you end up with, BadDog. I just acquired a set almost identical, except mine are not painted black in between the vanes. Mine also say 14x6.75? I quess it's the same as 14x7.

Welcome, Louie. I live just down the street from you (well sort of, in a world-wide-web kind of distance)! I live over by Fiesta Texas in San Antonio. Maybe I'll see at the next Z-Sport meeting in June right before the Convention.

I wrote a post on this exact thing a little while ago. Look up this thread "Quick rebuild of wiper arm pivots..." in the technical articles.

Just as a reference, from what I've heard about building up a 3.1L stroker motor. From the people I've talked to about this(I once considered it), to do it right and to get the most power and reliability will run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $3000-3500! Minimum. There is a lot of machine work involved in building one of these motors. Food for thought.

I did that too. But if the arm is mounted 180 degrees off at the motor, the wipers will run backwards or in the opposite direction that they should. I figure that's how they are supposed to be set up for the right-hand drive cars.

For those that will (at some point) attempt to fix their wipers so they work properly, this tip is for you. Leraned the hard (and slightly damaging way) just for you. I removed my wipers the other day to clean and re-lube the pivots coming through the cowling. No problem, it's a pretty easy process. The catch comes when attaching them back to the wiper motor. BEWARE!!!:eek: You can (and I did) mount them up 180 degrees out of sequence. If you do, when you turn your wipers on they go shooting across your cowling and your hood. Not a good thing for fresh paint like on my car....:tapemouth So the tip: test the operation of your wipers before you put the cowling back on and before you mount the actuall wiper blades back on. Put one blade on, but leave it standing up instead of laying on the glass. Use the drivers side one. Then turn on the wipers and see if the wiper moves up the windshield or down towards the hood. If it moves towards the hood, disconnect the wiper motor and rotate mounting arm 180 degrees. then check it all again. Once you have it working right, then put it back together and give thanks to this website (for its wonderful information) and to me for my stupidity of not checking everything and rushing through a job.

Hmmmm, which is better, huh? Depends on what you're doing with the engine really. The R180 will handle all the power a modded up up L28 can deliver. Plus it'll already be there in the 240. If you going to something along the lines of an L28 Turbo, then you'll probably need the R200. The R200 is heavier than the R180 and slightly beefier. In order to install the R200 into a 240, you'll need the diff., drive shaft, half-shafts, and I think the you'll need the rear suspension, too. The last part I'm not too sure on.

You can open up a 240 head some and install the 280 valves (they're larger) and get better flow. You still get the benefit of the slightly higher compression head w/ better flowing valves. Any compitent machine shop should be able to perform this type of swap.