kmack

Well it is with much regret that I'm looking at selling my car due to job-related issues. Here's the skinny: Car was completely rebuilt. Started in '93, finished in June of 2002. Every nut, bolt and speck of paint removed. Battery tray, passenger floor, right-side firewall, and right-side hatch deck replaced. Car was placed on a frame machine and straightened. Paint is an acrylic-urethane in stock Nissan Red. Original #'s engine rebuilt and color matched to car. Interior has new seat apholstery and new carpet. New weatherstripping throughout. Also has 280ZX 6-spoke rims with semi-polished centers (not a mirror finish). Car was Featured Z of the Month in May, 2004. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12935 Car has been on the track a few times in Autocross and PCA High-speed Events. Suspension is stock strut inserts (replaced with new) on MotorSport Auto springs (blue). Front control arm camber bushings installed. Urethane sway arm bushings front & rear. I have a 1" front sway bar that is not installed, but will go with the car. Please keep in mind, this is not a trailer queen, car-show only car (although she has a few 2nd place finishes in Nissan Street Modified classes). This car has been raced. There are chips in the paint. Exterior and interior were left to look stock. Car has also been injected with structural foam form Fomo Products. www.fomo.com This was professionally done by a factory rep. to increase sound deadening and structural rigidity. Lower rockers, rear quarters, and roof section above the qtr windows. Car sounds like it has the interior installed, even though it does not. Very quiet. As for the structural aspect, at my last autoX, it felt like a completely different car. Very noticeable. Pictures can be seen at: http://www.geocities.com/vintagericeracing/my_car.html Price is negotiable starting at $4500. I hate to do this. But sometimes, you just have to let go... Also, I have a '76 L28 and a T5 transmission (280ZX) for sale. L28 runs but was going to be rebuilt. I have a new gasket set along with brand new flat-top pistons. L28 and T5 (package deal), $750 obo.

I can back Victor up on this one. I weighed mine before my car was finished as I was trying to determine which set of wheels I had weighed less. The "6"-spokes came in at 13 lbs and change. Call it 14 lbs.

I do realize that this would only indicate proper air/fuel ratio to a sort of general level. BUt since I'm not applying it to a FI system, it should be ok. I have had my ratio tested while dyno'ing the car before. Good information. But I'd like to have a system that I can monitor while driving. Real world scenarios, know what I mean? The website article claims to show exactly what is needed to build the piece, but it's apparently in the next section of the article that can only be viewed with a subscription. They do list the piece as being available for sale, something like $12 or $13 + shipping from AUS. I can't see entering a subscription just for this one article and the shipping of the piece will put the price damn near above the subscription. I just want the rest of the article to build the thing myself. I need the parts list, really. I've been thinking about monitoring the air/fuel ratio now for quite some time. But current available gauges are now out of my reach since I got laid off from work last week. My current plan of attack is to have one gauge with two oxygen sensors - one for each carb - with a switch to read each sensor. That way I can better control my mixture.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0217/article.html Has anybody seen this article? The complete article? I'm looking for the remainder of the article (passed the password protection). I want to use this type of setup to help monitor my fuel mixture from my SU's. If anybody has access to this site and can send me the rest of the article, I'd appreciate. I just want to find out how to build this thing. Thanks.

Not rain on anybody's parade here, but I'd be unhappy with this performance. I have seen a '78 280z (just a step up from stock, mostly exhaust work) pull 157 hp at the wheels. My L24 pulled 139 hp at the wheels last summer. All engine internals are stock. Granted, pulls were made on a DynoJet and here in Texas. Nissan rates the L28 at 186 hp at the crank. 148 at the wheels is a hell of a drop.

Will, I've been there before, especially with tools from Harbor Freight. Well, not really the tools, but more the equipment. I'm on my 2nd 6" vice and will be returning it for my 3rd! I don't have a press, so I use the vice for pushing out bushings. I broke the 2nd vice here about 2 weeks ago! :eek: Luckily, Harbor Freight has taken them back no questions asked. When they stop, I'll break down and get a good vice. Can't expect too much when I only paid $32 for it. I bought my own wrench for my front camber bushings instead of the one from VB. I use a 1-1/2" open end wrench cut down to 7" long. It was $7 at the local Northern Tools store. FWIW....

Sorry, Carl. That comment was not directed at you. My apologies. I grew up in what is called the Rio Grande Valley, which has a reputation for being one of the largest welfare areas in the country. My comment was directed at them. My sincerest... At this point in my life, there are only two things that I can directly relate to myself as having a benefit from my taxes: 1) My taxes help pay for my wife's salary as a school teacher/Librarian (School taxes) 2) My taxes help pay for my daughter's education (Public School) If anybody can prove to me that I've had a direct benefit from my taxes that have been put into the system, then I'll add them to my list. Other than that, it appears we all have varied beliefs and opinions. We could discuss this for an enternity, but the whole purpose of this website is to talk about Z cars, which this topic has gone way beyond that type of discussion. As have many other threads. Honestly, Carl/anybody else, I harbor no ill-will towards anybody unless they have taken something away from myself or my family. Nobody here has done that and I can not be mad or angry at someone just because they have a different set of values. My how things can get out of hand sometimes. I'm stepping away from this topic now before things only get worse. My best to you and yours... Ken

EDIT - was posted twice, see below. Damn computers...

So, if you're driving behind a large truck, or Hummer in your Z, on the freeway, and he's driving slower than you are, but you can't see what's in front of him, will you stay right on his butt hoping that he'll get the picture and move out of your way? Based on your comment, that's what it sounds like. A responsible, proactive driver (that isn't some retard with his head stuck up his arse) will manuever his vehicle into a position that will afford him the visability that he needs. So based on this logical thought, my large vehicle should never be in anybody's way, visually. So, YES, the "other" guy and myself can comfortably share the road without any issues. Just because you think everyone should drive the same size vehicle as you, doesn't mean we have to. Everybody can get along on our highways, some just choose not to. Now, was the "small words" comment really necessary? We're all adults here (at least most of us). I do remember a thing or tow from my 3 semesters of Economics in college. (Yes, some of us rednecks do have college educations!) Supply and Demand. GM is building vehicles that the Public wants. As evident by the strong sales of the Hummer. The Public has discretionary funds to buy said Hummers (whether they need them or not). This in turn supplys additional funds back into the Economy to be further distributed among other items of value to said Public. It's all a little money circle. A big indicator of the country's economy is based off construction. Construction has not really declined in the last 5 years. Even though material costs have begun to sky-rocket in the last 2 years. (I work in the industry, so I have a good reference for this). Commercial construction says the most. If businesses can afford new buildings, then that says they have money to spend. New construction means jobs. Jobs mean money for John Q. Public. The economy is in good shape. Economist can say what they want you to believe. But believe what you see. And don't even start on the unemployment rate. That's a joke. If the Liberals would quit crooning over all the helpless illegal aliens that steal their way into this country, then there would be more money to go around and more jobs. Plus, most of the "unemployed" (at least those I have seen in and around S. Texas) won't lower themselves to working a common laborer's job. (Which by the way, there are plenty to go around in construction) A job is a job is a job. Quit sucking off the State just because you think they owe you. My taxes don't owe you $^!#! ps-notice how I mentioned the Hummers to keep this on topic?

Actually, I average 11.5 to 12 mpg in town. I could get as much as 14 if I drove it nicer, but I have a heavey foot; always have, always will. And yes I do have a need for such a truck. I work in construction and half of my driving is on jobsites w/o any type of pavement. Plus I have to carry materials from time to time. I also tow my Z to race event (autoX, high-speed events, etc.) and so far, this is the only vehicle that has yet to blow a transmission while towing. My Tahoe went through two before I finally got this truck. Kick of it is, I actually can get 13.5 mpg while towing my Z, at close to 80 mph! And there's nothing like the feel of almost 400hp at the tip of your toes. While I don't profess to be an economists by any stretch, isn't the fact that MANY people are spending hard-earned cash on large, expensive vehicles, toys, etc. a good sign for our economy? Besides, money is meant to be spent. What are you going to do, take it with you in the end? Let it burn a hole in your pocket. I don't care. I get reimbursed for my gas from work. I make good money. I have big boy toys I can drive and play with. Yes I have debt, but who doesn't. And I'll be damned if I'll let someone, who thinks they know what is good for me and my safety, tell me what I can or cannot do with my money. Or try to tax me out of spending my money. Those people have nothing better to do with their lives but to try and run someone else's! This is a whole other issue. Requirements to get a liscense in this country are far too relaxed. Any idiot/retard can get a driver's liscense and go cruising down our highways. If they would learn to pay enough attention to the road and vehicles around them (instead of the phone, radio, hot chick on the sidewalk, and put their damned seat up so they can see over the freakin dash), then they wouldn't get run over. If your driving 55 mph in the fast lane on a 65 mph highway, you should have enough common sense and forethought to see other vehicles coming up behind you and get out of the way. Here in Texas, there is actually a law about holding up the flow of traffic, no matter if cars are exceeding the speedlimit. It's rarely enforced, but it should be. That sort of driving is called creating a hazard. That's why we all bitch about old people driving slow, they're creating a hazard and are in the way of the flow of traffic. Oh, and back on the whole "we drive too many vehicle with bad fuel economy" issue. Way more than half of all freight transported in the country and to and from Canada and Mexico is by truck. The average semi gets about 8 mpg! So don't bitch at me about my 11.5 mpg. And yes, I live in a VERY red state!

Don't need to....I already have my own big truck. (see picture) '01 Chevy Silverado 2500HD, 8.1L (496ci) Vortec V8. This truck is just over 21' long and even though I'm 6'-0, I still have to jump slightly to climb inside. I tower over most everything on the road, except 4x4's and I can see the road ahead for quite awhile. I wouldn't trade this truck for anything right now. I'll take on a H2 anytime. Burnin' a hole in the atmosphere, 11 mile per gallon at a time....

I do admit the site is somewhat funny, but I don't completely agree with it's hatred toward Hummer owners. If I could buy a vehicle and almost completely deduct it's value off my income tax, you know I'd be in line to buy one right now! Plus be safer in an accident, as well as having a higher stance on the road to see in front of you, that's a no-brainer. So why do we have to always say someone is compensating for a "small penis" just because they can afford to have a large luxury vehicle like an H2? I don't personally care too much for the H2 body style, but I'd love to have, and would drive everywhere in, a first generation Hummer! You guys just jealous that they have one and you don't? And a woman driving a big truck like that....maybe it's just cause I'm from Texas, but that's sexy as hell!

Eitehr way, I'll probably still modify the shifter some. In order to use my stock console, I have to put a pretty serious "S" bend in the shifter itself to clear the front part of the console. I did this with my later "B" series 4-speed. I'll just have to take a look at the shifter on the T5 to see how I can work it. Thanks for the help and the info. When I get farther along, I may need some more help.

Another question.... Is there any significant issue with the shifter? I have an early Series I car, but I've already had a late model 4-speed in the car. I'm just trying to make sure I don't have any other modification to do to the trans tunnel. I thought I had heard some where that it was better to use the shifter out of a Mustang. Is that true or did I just hear a bunch of BS? I'll be checking prices later this week for modifications to the driveshaft.

I'm building up an L28 with a shaved head and flat-top pistons. I'm shooting for upwards of 200hp at the crank. Do you think that I'll need them with this setup?

hf240z, I picked up a T5 this weekend, got a hell of a deal on it, too. Got one question, though. Is it necessary to use the little support brackets that where attached to the bellhousing and then bolted onto the engine block underneath? There is no provision for this on my L28 I'm going to use, so I'm curious if I even need these pieces.

I can't direct you to any book in particular other than maybe any one of the available service manuals. The Haynes book has some pretty good detail as does the FSM. The easiest way I found to work on trannys, is to sit down with a service book (with pretty good pictures) and actually just tear one apart. Manual transmissions are the easiest to work on because they only go back together one way! It's like a puzzle. If it's in the wrong place, it won't fit. I could try to explain the inner workings a bit, but I lack the specific terminology and I'd just get you confused. I'd probably even confuse my self! But I'll give it a shot. You're right with your statement above that the gears don't actually move. The moving parts are with the synchro "packs" themselves. Each "pack" has 2 synchros, one on each side for each corresponding gear. There is a ring on the outside of the "pack" that rides inside the shifter forks. These are the moving parts. (When I say moving, I mean transverse - front to back - movement as opposed to rotating movement.) Each synchronizer is made out of brass (or a brass alloy) and does in fact use friction to slow each corresponding gear so that ring can lock in place, thus selecting that gear for use. It is a metal-to-metal contact with an oil layer in between. Most of the time, the synchro will last a long time. I've seen some outlast bearings. But if you run the tranny low on fluid, it severely shortens synchro life. Hope I didn't confuse you any. Like I said, just jump into it and you'll figure it out as you take it apart. But give yourself a lot of room to lay out pieces, a 4'x8' spot will work good. Make sure you can leave this area undisturbed for awhile, too. As you pull a piece off, lay it down in its approximate location relative to other pieces. Makes putting things back together a lot easier. Plan on getting dirty and very greasy (oily).

I'm not sure who makes them now, but both MSA and VB carry the control arm bushings. I have them in my car, installation is easy. Only downside is everytime you make an adjustment on the bushing, you have to readjust the toe-in also. Not very good if you want to make different adjustments based on driving conditions.

Yeah, I liked the original one the best, too. Still miss it either way, though. Was fun talking to guys in Australia first thing in the morning.

Hey, what ever happened to the chat room? Did it fall about the wayside with all the subsequent site upgrades and changes, or was it not compatible with the current system? I miss it.

Just make sure she doesn't drop her beer, otherwise she'll get REALLY mad! :classic:

Another benefit of a power bleeder. It can go for quite some time without running out of fluid. That's why it's great for changing the fluid in the brake system.

The fenders are bolted in place at various locations across the top, bottom and front. There are the obvious bolts along the top lip just under the hood edge (5-6 if I remember right). There are (2) phillips-head screws on the top of the fender underneath the windshield cowling (grill). There is (1) bolt at the rear of the fender just below the cowling screws that can only be accessed by opening the door (open, then look near the front of the door on the body). There are (2) bolts on the bottom of the fender along the bottom edge of the rocker panel, just behind the front wheels. Then, there are (2) more bolts behind the headlight scoop that bolt up through the area behind the front grill (look just to either side of the radiator, on the front side of the core-support). That should be about it.

Trash the old stock manifold and buy a header. That is truly the quickest way to fix it. The cheapest way is the one that takes the longest to do. (I don't think JB Weld will hold as a permanent fix) Take you manifold off, cut the air tubes off at the nut. You may try to unscrew the nuts with a pair of vise-grips and a table vise (to hold the manifold), but most likely they'll be rusted in there real good. Take a drill and drill them out, then re-tap the holes to accept flush-mount pipe plugs that you can buy at Home Depot or Lowe's.

Este, Boy, you've got a lot of questions, but this is a good thing! If you have a place to store the car, do work on it, and enough room to move around, then you're in the right direction. One thing, you'll need to keep in mind though, when taking a car apart, you'll need almost twice as much room than when the car is together. Loose parts take up a lot of space. Welding is not hard. But you need to find someone that is good and can teach. Check with your local school district about Community Education classes. One of the districts here in SA offers night classes for adults. One class is a basic welding class. VERY informative and well worth the time and money. I'd suggest looking for a wirefeed (MIG) welder. Get one that can run gas while welding (CO2/Argon mix). And also get your hands on some scrap pieces of steel and practice before you touch your car. As for the rust issues again, the rust inside the pass. fender well is from the battery. Unfortunately, there are no replacement panels available for this area. You either have to cut it out of a donor car (which is very hard to find a clean one nowadays) or fabricate up the panel from new steel. A competent metal shop should be able to fabricate something up, but it might not be cheap. At this point, you need to figure some things out. Decide how much money you can put into this car or are willing to. Decide how much work you can actually do yourself or are willing to learn to do. Decide how long you are willing to work on the car to get the job done. And with having a storage unit, how long are you willing to pay extra for the storage unit/work space. Your car is not the worst rust bucket seen and is not the worst one to have been rebuilt. Ask St. Stephen! But you have the final decision on how much is too much. Learning to perform all or most of the work needed to restore this car can and will be a very rewarding experience. You can say I did myself and be proud. But you have to understand that it won't be done overnight this way and will take some time. There will be trial and error. In car repair/restoration, there are three things: Quick work - Quality work - Cheap work. You can have any two, but not all three. FYI - It took me over 8 years to finish my car. But I started while in school and living in an apartment, then started a family, got a career, etc. But I was comfortable with that.