kmack

I chose Torch/Scrape only because I used a modified version of that technique. Basically, I used a 500W halogen work light and a putty knife. This works especially great on the rubberized undercoatings, but will also work on most paints, and the bondo underneath the paint! Set protective grill of the work light up against the surface (this should put the bulb and glass of the light about 2" from the surface). Let sit for 1-2 minutes. Take said putty knife and push into the paint. Watch the paint, undercoating, bondo, whatever, roll up and fall to the floor. Make clean up nicer too. You just use a broom and you don't have all the nice little chemical puddles all over the place getting on your shoes where you can track into the house on the wife's precious carpet! (Don't ask....) Another nice benefit of this method...you can stop at any time. Unlike chemicals, that will dry up and harden if you walk away with them left on the surface.

Well, I have yet see a Z body without these mount holes, but I always figured they were used for mounting safety harnesses for the factory race teams. At least that what I use them for. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3564&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

:sick: That's not the worst taste left in my mouth, but it's pretty close... I am suprised, though....that looks (and sounds) like it should have come from Mississippi or Arkansas, not New York! Although, I'd bet Windham, NY is kind of in the sticks, isn't?

This may be hard to explain here, but the connectors are similar to a regular spade type connector. They slide over the top of the post on the sending unit. You probably could use a spade type connector to replace the original ones, but you'd have to open up the spade part a little. Hope this helps, it's kind of hard to describe with out a picture.

I don't have any suggestions towards your engine builder's recommendation of a 3" exhaust, but I can tell you that you're looking at a custom built exhaust. I do not know of anybody that has a 3" exhaust preformed to fit a Z. You should expect to dish out at least $250-$300, minimum.

Back February, I put a set of Falken Ziex ZE-512's on my 240. I'm running 205-60/R14's on ZX 6-spokes. Now these aren't necessarily the best for AutoX, but they make for an excellent street tire. I have run 3 AutoX's (one 3.1 miles long, one 1.8 miles long, and one 1.2 miles long) and will run a 4th in 2 weeks. So far the wear is not bad and I have about 2000 street miles on the tires also. As for handling, the turn-in response is good and they are very predicatable as to when they lose traction in a turn. I like these tires and they were affordable, too! There's my $.02...

I know it's alittle lateon the reply, but here it is. I'm involved with a Porsche club that sponsors a "Driver's Education" event. http://www.rgvpca.org/faq.htm This gives a little insight as to the event. All corner workers are either drivers or volunteers (usually driver's family members or friends), fire extinguishers located at corners, the facility is an old airport (which the club pays a fee to use), and club insurance is required (but doesn't cover any damage to cars). That's the only thing I'm involved in right now. I'm starting to look at another event called an Open Road Race, in Big Bend, Tx. www.bborr.com This one is going to be fun!

Z-Sport’s First Annual Dyno Day Shootout is set and ready to run. It will be held at DynoTex Racing in San Antonio on July 19, 2003 starting at 9 in the morning. We will be meeting that morning at the Rolling Oaks Mall parking lot in front of the Dillards store at 8 am, and will be heading over to the facility (just down the road) at 8:30 am. Attached to this email is an RSVP form to fill out and email back to Ken Mack at kens240z@hotmail.com ALL RSVP’s MUST BE TURNED IN BY JULY 8, 2003! This is so that we can have a final number of those attending for set up purposes and food requirements. Maximum number of cars to run on the dyno is set at 20 due to time limitations. Driving instructions (DynoTex is located on the North-East side of San Antonio): From IH-35, take Loop 1604 West and exit Nacogdoches Road. Turn right at Nacogdoches Road. From IH-10 or US 281, take Loop 1604 East and exit Nacogdoches Road. Turn Left at Nacogdoches Road. The first light you come to will be the entrance to Rolling Oaks Mall, in front of the Dillards store. This is where we will meet in the morning. From Loop 1604, go approximately 2.7 miles on Nacogdoches Road. On the right hand side will be a metal pipe fence with a sign that reads “G.D. Friesenhahn Plumbing,” turn here and follow the driveway to the back of the Plumbing shop. You won’t be able to miss the cars! There is also a “DynoJet” banner on the fence. We’ll have signs posted in front of the facility and out by the road. So come join us for a fun day of bragging rights and show us what your car can do! dyno day flyer.txt

I agree with peterc, sounds like a trip to the garage to suck on a tail pipe might help get my wife off my back about having another kid. (I need the money for the car...):stupid:

Check out this link for a comparison (1.8 mile course): http://www.rgvpca.org/event_results.htm The latest event (May 24th) I was running street tires, MSA performance springs, stock-type strut cartridges, EBC Green pads, SS brake lines, Stock L24 (except for headers), urethane sway bars bushings, and about 1* of negative camber on the wheels. I'm in XC-3. The 944 in P-2 is the same car, just different drivers. This car is NA, 400# springs, Koenig adjustables, camber plates, essentially stock motor, Hoosier slicks. The time difference btwn the 2 is driver experience. But as you can see, a for the most part, stock 240 is not far off the pace from a race prepped 944. About 4 seconds. A little more work to my car, better tires, and an L28 and I'll have them beat for sure. Just an actual comparison with hard numbers. Tell your Porsch buddies to beware of the cheap-looking, little Datsuns! They'll sneak up on you when you're not looking...

Sounds like you need to make a trip down to SA and I'll take you out in the Hill Country and see it you can keep up! :classic: Did you see my post about the Dyno Days on July 19th? You really should come down. Also, there is a Driver's Education event down in the Valley on the 28th of this month. PM me if you're interested.

I'll try to get someone to level out the belts while I'm sitting there and see how it ends up. Won't be for another 2 weeks, though (maybe).

I do not know what SCCA's guidelines are. I don't have one of their rule books. I just went by what looks to be a factory moutning place for such an item as my harness bar. I can't see anything else being attached in that location for any other purpose.

You can get the silicon spray at just about any autoparts store. pepBoys or AutoZone, etc.... But I did not use it when installing my windshield or hatch glass and had no problems what so ever. Go to Wally-Mart and get yourself a roll of the thick weedeater line. (Should be a little less than 1/8" thick, or there about) Put a bead of weatherstrip adhesive down the inside channel (where the glass sits) of the seal, and then put the seal on the glass and seat it good. Then take the weedeater line and wrap it around the outside channel of the seal at least 3 times, all the way around the glass. Place the glass on the car, and from the inside, grap the begining of the line. Pull slowly to seat the seal on the body. You may need to help the seal seat, but the line should do most of the work. The reason for wrapping the line 3 times, is the seal may not seat perfectly the first time around. But it will by the 2nd or 3rd time. after you have pulled all of the line out of the seal and the glass has seated on the body, take a rubber mallet and tap (lightly) around the seal to make sure it is seated. That's all there is to it. Now putting those little chrome strips back in...that's a whole other affair that takes two people...

texasz, As for the belts, just keep an eye out on ebay. At the time I bought mine I was watching 15 different sets at the same time. I had a certain price in mind that I wanted, and when they went over that price, I just looked at another set. As for the bar, I can make you one if you want. Send me a PM about it and we'll set something up. It'll take about 2 weeks.

mdbrandy, My passenger floor was repaired in sections. Really I only needed the front section replaced (from just forward of the front seat mount). I would replace only the sections that have rust. If any other section of the floor is rust free and still solid, then leave it alone. No sense in cutting it out to replace with an entire floor pan panel and then risk not getting good penetrating welds. Just leave the good sections there, they are still doing their job structurally. And doing it well.

I'm using a 5-point harness just like yours but mine is from Simpson Racing (and just happens to match the paint really well!). http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3565&password=&sort=7&thecat=500 In the photo, the crotch strap is not in, but I have it in the car now. I looped it around the front seat support. It really is only there to keep the buckle in place and from pulling up your stomach too far. Btw, I bought my harness used for $45. Only because it came from a drag racer and they can not used belts over a certain age (the belts are dated). These are in excellant shape and work well for my purposes (AutoX).

That Ozzy guy, here is how my harness is set up in my car. I fabricated the mount which ties into existing mounting holes in the body. Pull the interior dog-leg panels and see what I'm talking about. You should see 4 pre-drilled and tapped holes in the body. This is where to mount the bar and it sit right at the correct height. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3564&password=&sort=7&thecat=500

Have you checked to make sure there is oil in the dashpot dampers of the carb domes? My starts to bog like that when the oil level gets low in the carb domes. Also, make sure your points are gapped correctly and that your timing is relatively close.

I'm a member of San Antonio's Z-Sport and I'm working on putting together a dyno day for the Z's. This event is open to anyone within central Texas (San Antonio, Austin, Brazos Valley, Houston, Dallas, or anyone else willing to make the drive...). This will be an all day event to be held on July 19, 2003. The facility is DynoTex Racing, 18838 FM 2252, San Antonio, Tx 78266. www.dynotexracing.com The details are this: $40 / 2 pulls, extra pulls are $20/ea. (Normal fee is $45/pull) $10 sensor rental(gas mixture) Free video games Food and drinks and a possible Grand Tourismo and Grand Tourismo2 shootout on PlayStation (just for fun)! We are looking to have no more than 20 cars total for the event (due to time limitations). RSVP by July 8th. We do need to have firm committments on this, please, as space will be limited. If anyone is interested in showing up, email me at kens240z@hotmail.com or send me a PM.

mperdue, you should be able to rotate the car until the drip rails above the door just touch the angle you have mounted between the stands. Basically, you should get about 300* of rotation.

That picture almost looks like it taken at the Las Vegas National Convention. Anybody know for sure?

The fender should be the same. You should be able to mount it on the 240 with out any problems. According to the parts CD (blatant merchandise plug for this site), the tie rod ends and control arms are the same from '70 up to '78. The parts numbers changed once on the control arms, but it just references back to the first part number anyway. I say go for it.

Gav, If you can get a hold of a rotisserie, by all means, get it! I loved using mine. No more sore back or arms from laying underneath the car with all that stuff falling in your eyes.

drunkenmaster, I understand what you mean about the shiny metal. When I was cleaning the underside of mine, I had a thought about just leaving it and maybe trying to polish it out and have a "chrome" look instead of paint. It was a rather fleeting thought as I then remembered how tough it is to polish things and then keep it nice. :stupid: