kmack

When I refinished mine, I used a straight Flat Black enamel on the metal hub and spokes. For the faux wood, I just used an SOS pad to clean it up and a light touch up with 240 grit sand paper to get all the old clear off. I didn't use any stain, just coated it with a clear acrylic enamel. I used about 6 light coats of the clear. I don't have any pictures, but it turned out very nice. Similar to DatsunZguy's but without the reddish tint to it. I tend to like the lighter look of the wheel now. One thing I'd make sure to do, is let the paint on the spokes dry for at least 3 days before you mask it off to spray the wood. I only waited 24 hrs and had a few little spots (nothing bigger than a pin head) where the black paint came up with the tape. But I still have another wheel to do, so I'll do better next time.

"Are the earlier steering wheel spokes without the cut outs silver? Nick" No, they were painted the same color as the later steering wheels. I have one of each.

The 280 doors are essentially the same as 240 doors save for a few minor interior structural changes. So the panels should fit with no problems. Although the vinyl on the panels will definitely be different.

BambiKiller240, "I had hoped I wouldn't live long enough to see/hear of this sort of thing again. " I hoped I wouldn't see it happen again, also. The last one went on my birthday (1/28/86). This one is just a few days after my birthday. There's got to be some sort of strange irony here...

Zmefly, I'm interested in the calipers you have. What would shipping be to San Antonio, Tx (78249)? And what type of pads are included? Semi-metallic or something else?

I'm coming late into this discussion, but I'm getting set to try this set-up. My question is this: Autozone lists 2 types of calipers for the 79-83 Toyota 4x4 pickup. One has a 32mm bore size and the other has 42mm bore size. What are the differences and will those differences matter when mounted on a 240Z? Also will the differences cause any clearence problems? I haven't checked any other parts suppliers yet, so I don't know if they offer the same bore sizes.

Have you gotten in contact with any of the members of the Z CLub of Texas? They are the biggest club in Texas and are local to you. I believe there is a link to them on this site or go to www.zcluboftexas.org

I did with new weather stripping when I put my car back together and it was tough then. I had to get my wife to help me. There was no way I could hold the little rubber lip up and out of the way and push the trim into place at the same time. Definitely get some help and work an inch at a time. If you try to rush you will surely bend/kink the trim pieces. If you do bend though, let me know. I'll make you a really good deal on the extras I still have. Kept them in case I screwed mine up the first time.

I voted "all the time" because my wife has asked "permission" to drive my Z and I told her she drive it anytime she wanted. She's only driven it twice so far. Though, she does say she likes the way you don't have to downshift out of 4th to pass someone. Just step on the gas and go. She is a car buff like me. Her Dad told her long ago that "in order to drive all the really cool cars, you'll have to learn to drive stick." She's got a thing for Fiats, though. Specifically a '68 Spyder and the X1/9's. Had one of each. Hell she even had a 4x4 Ranger w/ a 5" lift in High School! :surprised I'm comfortable with her driving my car because I know she is capable. She's even slightly mechanically inclined, which I'm grateful for.

I built my rotisserie using a MIG. I have the setup to do ARC also, but I think you can get a little better and cleaner weld using the MIG. It's also easier (IMO) to control the weld to make sure it penetrates fully. There are guys in this world that can do wonders soley using ARC welding. I'm not one of them. I've used a TIG setup before and absolutely loved it! But of course that type of setup is very expensive (compared to MIG or Arc).

Mmagnus, Alan, As far as the fiberglass headlight buckets go, I have seen cars built through 2/71 (American market) having both 'glass buckets. My car has a build date of 1/71 and I had a parts car w/ a date of 2/71. Unfortunately, the glass buckets are getting hard to find, just ask our great Adminstrator, Mike. That's why I'm keeping the 2 sets of broken ones, just practice my fiberglass techniques. As far as color choices, I like the 905 Red on my car. Looks absolutely great (and bright) when clean and shiney out in the bright sun. I also think the early Z's are about the only production vehicle to ever really look good in yellow. And I have to agree with you guys that Silver is definitely a good choice for a 240. I don't think the orange or brown were ever good color for these cars. Personal opinion, though.....

You shouldn't have to remove anything off the fan switch when removing the control panel. I never have. And you only have to remove the knobs off the heater controls if you're disconnecting the the slider assembly from the back of the control panel. In EScanlon's description, you wouldn't even have to do that. When I always removed mine, I would disconnect the slider assembly from the control panel only because I had a hard time keeping my cables working properly. Once I got them connected to the right levers and working right, I never wanted to disconnect them again. There are 4 small phillips-head screws that hold the slider assembly onto the back of the control panel. They are easy to remove, but a little more difficult to hook back up.

"What did you use for the seams along the floorboard by your feet? Whatever Datsun used came up in white pieces." 3M makes a product called Body Sealer. It's black and stays pliable throughout it's life cycle. It gets a skin on top but never really hardens. Makes for a nice seal between metal pcs. I used it all over my car sealing anything and everything I could reach. It runs about $4-6 a tube depending on where you can find it.

If the motor dies in the clock, I would not try to open it up and fix it. It is way too hard to try and put back together. I trashed one motor on one of my spare clocks because I bent the shaft trying to put it back together. The motor still turns but there is enough resistance in the motor itself that when hooked back up to the clock internals, it won't move anything now. The other clocks I have, the motors all spin great, it's just the clock internals that get gummed up and need to be oiled. I would not suggest tinkering with the motors unless you are very familiar with tiny, fragile objects.

beandip, I could have made the stands taller to allow full rotation of the car, but that would have put it too tall for my garage (w/ the garage door open) and a bit high when working on certain areas of the car. As for the footprint of the stands being narrow, the stands you see pictures of on my website were the first built. I have since widened the footprint. There was always the possibility that whole set-up might tip over, but there's a possibility that my house could fall down also. I widened the footprint for 2 reasons. 1: my floor was not completely level, so the stands rocked a bit while rotating the car. The bigger footprint allows a more stable stance. & 2: because I felt a better piece of mind. It was just a little added safety since I planned on selling the stands. I once pushed and rocked the set-up w/ the car on its side. It never once seemed like it would go over, but I still felt better about widening the footprint. The plans I send out reflect this also.

This may seem somewhat trivial, but it's happened to me and I wore my arms out in the process fighting it. I had the speedo cable drop down and get in the way of the tranny bellhousing once while trying to put the tranny in. Couldn't get it to go all the way in, had 3/8" left to go. I fought for almost an hour, before I finally got on top of the engine looked at it all. Felt like an idiot afterwards, though. :tapemouth

Thanks for the plug, 2Many, but I haven't really looked at a 280ZX as far as rotisseries are concerned. Although if some one wants me to build them one, I will try it.

Would you see any benefit to using a N42 head on an L24 block? If the N42 head has the same chamber characteristics as an E88, but with larger valves, wouldn't it let the engine breath better? Therefore giving slightly better performance? I've heard of people using the E31 w/ 280 valves, why not just bolt up a N42 instead?

FWIW: Lower rocker panels From MSA - about $30 ea. Replacement Floor pans - btwn $200 - $350 for a set. There are no known repair panels for under the battery tray. If you have the time and knowledge to repair/rebuild the car, then go for it. They are worth saving. Don't do it as an investment, though. Parts are relatively cheap (in most cases), it's the labor that gets you.

"Do you think they'd let a 4wd Frontier bring up the rear in one of the ralleys?" It wouldn't have been a problem at last years Convention here in San Antonio. A member from Houston even drove his Frontier in the drags! Of course "Mad" Mike drove a big 'ole Caddy in the drags and AutoX.

"...this car is just for my pleasure to build up for a street/race use i'm only 21 so i think i have all the time i need" 1moeZ, I bought my '71 when I was 21 also. That was in '93. I just finished it this past June. I did all the work myself except for the frame repair. My rust wasn't near as bad as yours but I was going to school at the time also. Just keep a time frame in mind on this project. Set yourself a REALALISTIC time goal. And do your best to stick to it.

I myself like the look of the new Mustang concept, but not the convertible one. Only the fastback. Now that is the way you bring back old styling into a new car. This concept is a direct decendent of the late 60's fastback Mustangs. Great looking car!!! 2 thumbs up to FORD!

What type of SU's are those? They don't look like the typical ones found on a Z. I like the look of yours much better, but what are they from?

I've had that file for almost 2 years now (dated 5/2000), I don't have a clue what website I downloaded it off of. I thought about doing it to my gauges, just haven't made the final decision yet.

I've had this saved on my hard-drive for awhile, hope it helps some.... 240gaugeset.zip