kmack

As long as your electric pump is still working and the filter in the pump is clean and clear, then just having the electric pump should be fine. You'll need to make or buy a block-off plate for where the mech. pump bolts up to the engine.

You can get a new header from places like Victoria British or MSA. But you'll be looking at about $150+. You might be able to find a stock manifold in a junk yard considerably cheaper, but you'll run the risk of being in the same situation that you're in now.

The studs are actually threaded in, but over time and with lots of heat they essentially rust/weld themselves in place. The only thing to do (if you want to keep the stock manifold) is to drill out another hole and tap it. Then you can either put another stud in it or just use a bolt. I got my header from a junk yard for $50. It's a 6 into 2 header like the ones from Motorsport Auto. I had to have a collector made up for though. Here is a good shot of my header before I put the engine back in the car. This was almost one year ago to the day!

Monkey, The car above, the blue one pictured up top, belong to Pete Paraska. He is a memeber of HybridZ and of this website. His car is a wonderful example of a 350(cc)Z! And I just love the Audi Blue he used.

I broke one of the studs off mine awhile back. Just drilled the hole and re-tapped it for a bolt. It now has 2 studs and one bolt that hold the exhaust on. Of course, this year I switched it all to a header. It's a lot lighter. Trust me....I have the scar from 5 stitches on my head that says exactly how heavy that stock manifold is....:tapemouth :tapemouth

Just run down to your local auto parts store. They have them there. You'll need the ones that are fairly long with the washers. That's what I bought for my 6-spokes. I believe the thread size was 12 X 1.25 (metric).

If your car is a '73 model and you do have the electric pump mounted just in front of the gas tank, then you don't have much left to do to convert to all electric. First, make sure your electric pump is clean and working. The bottom section of the pump (at the very bottom while looking at it on the car) looks like a cap of sorts. Twist this cap off and pull the mesh screen filter out and make sure it's all clean. Then make sure the pump itself is working. It should hum slightly when working. If it's working, you're another step closer. Next pull the mechanical pump off the block. You'll need to either buy (from VB or MSA, etc.) a block-off plate or make your own and mount it in place of the mechanical pump. Attach all your fuel lines and your done! Start the car and enjoy the ride.

I bought my car in July of '93 pretty much as a shell. Got another 240 as a parts car (donor for engine and trans.). The work started right there and then. Did the apartment w/ car in storage unit thing for about a year and a half. Dropped the storage and then worked on the car out in the parking lot. Finally got a garage, then tore it all completely apart. Finally finished the car in June of 2002. Almost 9 years. Drove it for the first time on June 10th, got my first ticket in it on the 14th! :tapemouth Biggest set backs were (in order): School (= no money) apartment no money kid no money time no money But I'm glad I finished. I broke down a couple times and almost sold her, but it'll be a while before I ever think about selling the car now.

I know I don't usually ask too many questions, but every once in awhile I'm just clueless on a few things. This is one of those thingies... When I'm driving down the road at speed (60-70mph, sometimes more...), I've noticed that the car tends to wander a bit from side to side. Sometimes it does this rather abruptly and sharply. I'm trying to figure out what a possible cause and cure might be. So here's the skinny on my setup: Tires: 215/60r14 on front, 205/60r14 on back. Yes I have considered that this might be a possible cause for some of this. I will have new tires (all the same size, 205/60R14) on the car by the end of this month, or hopefully sooner. Suspension: new strut cartridges, stock springs, new swaybar bushings, new TC rod bushings, new ball joints, new tie rods, control arm bushings replaced w/ adjustable camber bushings, new steering rack bushings, new wheel bearings, hard plastic steering coupler, new alignment (done after the above was installed). There isn't any noticable "play" in the steering when the car is sitting. Ie: sitting in the driveway turning the steering wheel. I'm in a bit of quandry on this as I plan to start running the car in autoX's and time trials. Anybody have any ideas? TIA...

If it ran better after you changed the fuel filter, then it sounds like you have gunk/trash in the fuel tank. Next step might be dropping the tank and cleaning it out. You be needing to replace those vent lines on the gas tank anyway... There are a few threads around here about replacing those lines. A search should pick them up. Good luck.

Here's a cheaper method: Find a less picky inspection station. There was a smog pump and all associated plumbing on the '72 cars. Here's what I would do: Pull everything off the car that is associated with the smog/emission stuff. Don't leave anything visible that would draw attention to the fact that these items were removed. Make sure the smog pump mount is off the block, remove your air injection tubes from the exhaust manifold (assuming you're still running a stock manifold), and get rid of the anit-backfire valve. If the guy looking at the engine can see no signs of anything having been removed, then he has no reason to suspect anything was removed. Then ask around to find out were the more "relaxed" inspection stations are and go there. Here in San Antonio, they are all on the southside. Most won't even get into the car let alone look under the hood. When I got my car inspected, the guy asked me what the mileage was instead of looking for himself. Note: this is not to say that my vehicles are unsafe or are not up to vehicle standards in any way. In my opinion, the smo/emission systems on the early Z's did nothing. You can tune the SU's to meet the same emissions standards that the smog pump provided. So why keep it? I just like not having to go through the hassle of some guy telling me what should be on my car when he doesn't even know for sure himself. I mean that bracket hanging off the driver's side of my engine block with nothing attached could be from the A/C system I removed because it didn't work!:nervous:

I used a 500 Watt halogen work light and a putty knife when I pulled the undercoating off mine. But it also pulls the paint too! That's why I used the same setup to strip the paint off my car. No chemical mess, and you just sweep up the stuff on the floor when your done. (Or use the shop-vac)

Try encasing the entire car in shrink-wrap and pull a vacuum on the inside that way no air is left to attack the metal. Other than that, you could always completely strip the car down to the shell and have it dipped in a rust preventative treatment bath. You'd need to make sure it got all the way inside the interior body panels and was completely covered. Or you could just avoid rain, puddles, sprinklers, and forget washing the car....:stupid: Moisture is the killer of Z cars....

Also make sure the heater hoses coming in through the firewall are hooked up correctly. If they're not on right, then you won't get any flow to the heatercore; therefore, no heat. I had mine connected wrong at first, but have since got it corrected.

I don't know that any early 240's ever had a 2 levers for operating each individual choke, but the very early cars did have 2 levers; one operated the chokes and the other was a throttle control. To my knowledge there has always been one lever for the 2 chokes. Technically, there is one lever, and only one cable for both chokes. the end of the cable (or wire) runs from the rear choke arm up to the lever where it wraps around and continues back to the other choke arm. Interesting tid-bit.

The fusible link is the wire you see coming out of the harness going to the positive terminal of the starter. If the link is broken, then you will not get any power to the car what-so-ever. If you have power (ie. instrument lights, etc.), then the link is good and you have a problem somewhere else. I think I know why 2many told you the link comes from the battery.....he hasn't worked on a car (or at least a running car) for quite some time! (Sorry, 2many, I couldn't resist. )

I couldn't get onto this site..... I'd like to see if they have any of the other commercials, as my car is shown in one of them. Particularly the one showing the group of cars all parked next to each other that was taken at the National Convention Car Show.

A lot depends on what all needs to be fixed before the paint goes on. You say "that the undercarriage is very rusted." Do section of metal need to be replaced? If so, figure a "good" shop is going to charge $2000-4000 depending on the extent of damage. Doing it yourself is cheaper. As for the paint, figure on another $1000-2000 for a good quality paint job. That should also include sanding the car down to get rid of all the chips. For reference, when I painted my car, total coast for paint alone $550. That was a medium grade paint (not high dollar) and I did all the work myself.

There are supposed to be a set of bushings where the shifter goes into the transmission. The rattle is most likely those bushings going bad. Replace them and it'll go away. My shifter moves considerably and rattles like crazy at certain rpm's. But I chalk it up as a characteristic of an old car. I kind of think it's cool! :classic:

First, I'd try to get the motor running using a small gas can. Hook it up to the pump, but don't use any of the fuel lines along the frame rail. But before you do, pull the plugs and squirt a little oil into the cylinders. Enough to coat them real good. You might also want to change the oil in the block as it's probably gotten pretty gunked up. Pull the valve cover off and coat the cam and valves with oil. Once you get it all buttomed up, turn the starter over w/o the plugs in to prime the lubrication system with oil. Run the starter until you see oil pressure. Then throw the plugs back in, spray some carb cleaner into the carbs, a then see if she'll fire. I'd also do a good thorough check of the carbs after you verify that the engine will run. But getting the engine to run after so long of a time, is half the battle.

Ok, this is being carried over from another thread for those that might be interested. Some of us have been using it to make new avatars. The link is to a license plate maker program. It's pretty cool, check it out. License plate maker

I don't mind at all. In fact I've made over 20 different plates so far. I have one lined up for my car when the current plates come due, but I won't show it because I don't want someone to steal it. :tapemouth

Thanks, billcapp. I made it off this website: http://www.acme.com/licensemaker/

There should an identifying mark at the base of the needle. It'll be pretty small and you'll probably have to pull it out of the carb piston to see it.

Hey Britt Boyette, If you're looking for a rotisserie and you're good with a welder, email me and I'll send you a set of plans that I used to build mine. Or I can build you one and ship it to you.