kmack

I remember seeing that exact same picture on the internet about 2 years ago. Must have had a quarter panel replaced because it has the later model emblems. Either way, congrats on the new car.

I was looking this up for my own benefit... www.carparts.com lists a part number of E-2910 for the filter for '70-'72 240. Price is $50.82. They also list a part # of E-2900 for the '73-74 240,260. I didn't see what the price was.

Check your coil. I had an old twin motorcycle that would run great until the engine warmed up and then one cylinder would die. Turn out one of the coils was going bad, and when it heated up, would break some sort of internal connection not allowing it to work. Grab a known good coil and hook it up. Then go for a drive and make sure everything heats up good. If it still dies then start pursuing the rest if the ignition system. Definitely sounds electrical.

Well, I have yet to ever really drive me Z, but for general driving, it also depends on the mood. I drive fast 99% of the time, the other 1% my wife is with me! If it's somewhat laid back, fast driving then it's anything from AC/DC. LOUD! If it's really spirited, fast driving, then White (Rob) Zombie, Ministry, Korn, etc. again, really loud. And my all-time favorite driving song, "I can't Drive 55" by Sammy Hagar.

Royce is correct. There is adjustment in the hood mounts. There is also a little bit of adjustment in the hinges where they mount. Short of that, the only thing you can do is take it to a frame shop. I had the left front of mine pulled last year. My hood overlapped the fender edge by 1/8" from the radiator support forward, only. But it took ten hours of frame time @ $35/hour to get it perfectly straight. Of course I took my car to someone that restored cars and had an eye for perfection. (I actually had to reshape the edge of my fender!) Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is be prepared for the cost of having the frame pulled. It may seem like it won't take a lot of time, but there is a lot of set-up involved in making sure your car is on the machine right in the first place. Any pulling on a machine is made in small increments. (It's easier to pull a little and keep going, than to pull too much and have to try and put it back!) Go to different shops (at least 3-5) and make sure you take the car with you. (It doesn't do them or you any good to guess at what you want if they can't see it.) Let them look at it and tell them what you would like them to accomplish. Ask for an estimate. This will give you an idea of the price range you're looking at. From there you can decide if it's worth it to you to have it pulled or if you can live with a little bit of hood height. If you decide to have it pulled and have made a decision on a shop, then schedule a drop off time for the car, and get them to tell you when it'll be done. If it takes a few day to finish, then call them in a day or so to check progress. They'll be less likely to delay your car if they know you'll check up on them. Ok, enough of my long windedness....if you have any other questions regarding having this done, PM me.....I could go on and on.....

most of the paint codes were located on a sticker on top of the radiator support. It's been debated as to whether the original location of this sticker was on the left or right side of the radiator support, though. As for trying to locate the original color of the car you have, best place to look is under the carpet or behind the interior panels. Pull up some of the vinyl trim also. Most people, when changing a car's color, will not go through the extra trouble of changing the color COMPLETELY. Doing a complete color change would involve removing the entire interior (dash, seats, wiring, heater, etc.) and repainting the entire shell. It's a lot of work and has been what has kept me from repainting my car black. (I didn't want someone to pull up the carpet and see the original red.)

The first cars I'm aware of that came w/ rear sway bars from the factory were the 260's. If your car is a late '73 then you might have the mounts for it. The bars on the 260's I've seen mount in front of the rear suspension. The bar ends mount into the rear swingarm, and the body mounts of the bar mount up to the unibody structure near the front portion of the wheel wells. There are kits available to mount bars on the 240's. I have one on mine, but it mounts on the diff. support, behind the rear suspension. It required some drilling.

2ManyZ is right. If it's just flaking that is not too big of a problem, but the exact location of the rust would need to be determined. If it's in the rocker panel itself, then you may be talking about replacing a structural member. You mentioned a price of $8900 for this car? That seems rather high for a car that has any rust on it, be it just flaking rust or what-not. For that price, I'd expect it to have no rust at all. Anywhere. I'd also check the area under the battery, the rear hatch ledge, and the rear fender flares for rust. Look for any signs that show the slightest bit of bubbling under the paint. I'd also crawl under the car and do your best to check out the condition of the floors. If you can, try and find someone who is knowledgable about Zcars to go with you and take a 2nd look. Just make sure you know all you can about the car before making a purchase. That way you know what you're dealing with and you can only be mad at yourself later if it gets to be too much work. (Don't ask me how I know this) :tapemouth

240Z, I tried downloading this my self and didn't have any problems. The zip file only contains one file, the dimensions file. But I did do a search on my hard drive of the file you say is missing. It is a file neccessary for Acrobat. I would try reloading a version of Acrobat again and see if that helps. I'm running version 5.0, btw. If you need more help, send me a private message and I'll try to do what I can.

I've used a gear puller when I've had stuck drums. You'll need one big enough to open up to 11-1/2" or 12". Anything smaller and it won't hold on. Place the teeth of the jaws on the fins of the drum (a 3-jaw puller is the best for centering) and tighten it down until it's just past snug. Then beat on the centering pin of the puller w/ a hammer. This will help loosen up the drum. You may need to keep tightening the puller to keep it snug and on the drum. Eventually it'll come off. Be patient and persistent.

If you over fill the damper, it will push the fluid out of the top when you replace the damper rod. I did this when putting my engine back in my car a few months ago. Best bet I found was to pour a little fluid in at a time and keep checking the level.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1816840146

EScanlon, it looks like we're both right! This is taken from manufacturing info from Crown Industries: "Acetone- A strong, fast-evaporating solvent used for thinning and cleaning fiberglass resins, epoxies, vinyls, lacquers, and adhesives. Excellent heavy duty degreasing agent. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) - A strong solvent similar to acetone but with a slower evaporation rate. Used for thinning and cleaning fiberglass resins, epoxies, vinyls, lacquers, and adhesives. Superior to acetone for cleaning and degreasing applications." I guess it basically gets down to your prefference on what you want to use. For reference, a gallon of MEK will run about $3-4 more than a gallon of Acetone (generally). I hope this information will help someone later down the road.

Sorry to burst your bubble, 2Many, but on the '73 240's the choke cables DID come throught the firewall on the passenger side of the engine! The '73 240 I bought years ago was stock and this was the case. It's that way because of the '73 flat-top carbs. And there is a "V" or "U" shaped cable holder that mounts to the top of the valve cover where the cables cross over. I have a picture of my '73's engine bay and I'll try to find it.

I assume that the POR-15 is/or similar to an epoxy paint. If it needs to be thinned out, you can use MEK for this. MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is specifically designed to thin epoxies and you can get it at Home Depot or at your paint store.

I didn't use the POR-15, but I used an epoxy-based truck-bed liner that I sprayed on. I had the same question regarding the thread holes on the car. What I did was to just put a small piece of masking tape over the holes. Just big enough to cover it. (Make a mental note of where these holes are located) Then when I was through spraying and the paint had a chance to tack up, I carefully removed the little pieces of masking tape. Since I was using a bed liner matrial this allowed for a nice smooth surface for when all my pieces went back together. And any bare metal was covered up after bolting everything back on. I also did re-chase all my threads, but only to clean them up from rust and dirt. Every thread has been cleaned out on my car!

Anybody looking for a cheap turbo motor? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1816555016

72 datsun / nissan Z radiator support http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1816041071

Includes tires, lug nuts, and center caps... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815553537

Here is an early 240 Intake manifold w/ balance tube and linkage: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1815521585

I have never done this conversion but I do know there are 2 different types of 240 bumpers. They changed to a different mounting set-up for the '73 cars. The early ones (70-72) just used a flat piece of steel w/ a slight bend in it. The '73's used a set-up somewhat similar to the shock mounts used on the 260's and 280's. You're best bet would be to try and use the '73 bumpers since the mounting would be similar. I have also heard that just mounting up the bumper on the standard 280 shock mounts will result in the bumper sticking WAY far out away from the car. To get around this you will have to collapse the mounts. This will not allow your new bumper set-up to absorb small impacts. Anyone else with info on this correct me if I'm wrong.

thunderstreak, Follow this link: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1937 I posted a file of the body dimensions for a 240 from the factory manual. Dimensions are in millimeters. I hope this helps.

This file is to be opened in Adobe Acrobat. This is a copy of the overall body dimensions for the 240Z from the factory shop manual. All dimensions are in millimeters. To convert (mm) to (in) multiply by .03937. chassisfrommanual8bmpwocomp.zip