kmack

Driving like how? How do you know how I drive on public highways? Have you ever seen me drive so fast that I have to cross over the line into oncoming traffic in a turn? Did I say that I was drivning in the turns any faster than the posted 45 mph speed limit? And trust me, on that section there is now way to sustain 45 mph! Don't get me wrong, I don't condone reckless driving like passing in a No Passing Zone or driving around people on the shoulder. But you make it sound like we're all criminals because we may have over-stepped the speedlimit a little, no matter how safe we were in doing it! So when traffic on those CA freeways is moving at around 75-80 mph, do you go with the flow or stick to the posted speedlimit? And yes I know at what point my car "breaks free" and I know what to do about it. That's why I participate in AutoX and high-speed events. But that's me. I'll step down now...

Be careful how you phrase that, Jeremiah. I know people that can't fix toilets and end up calling plumbers or just live a toilet that doesn't work. Who would have thought that a toilet could be so complicated? :stupid:

Some of my welding burns are due to the Mechanix gloves! I wear them so much that I end up wearing holes in the finger tips. Then I do something stupid like accidentally touch hot metal after I've been welding. I'm actually on my 6th pair of gloves in the last year and a half. Northern Tools carries some of their gloves with the elastic wrist band (instead of the velcro closure) for about $10 a pair, btw.

About 45 minutes West of San Antonio, is a road called FM 337 that runs between Leakey and Vanderpool. Nice long stretch that starts out fairly tame no matter which end you start at. Semi-straight, simple elevation changes, nice areas to stretch the Z's legs out with. But the mid-section of this road is unbelievable! Nothing but twisties, up and down and over the hills for a good 3-4 miles!! :love: We're talking turns where the signs say 15 or 20 mph and they usually mean it! I found this road years ago back in my motorcycle days. Took a few of our club members on a Saturday morning cruise through the area recently. Oh what fun it is to have a 350Z trying really hard to keep up with a '71 240z!!! They could only catch me in the straight sections. But everyone had the best time rowing through the gears in their Z's. I can't think of a better way to spend time driving your car.

If you are fouling plugs, it's one of two things: too much fuel or you're getting a lot of oil in the cylinders. Wipe your finger across one of the plugs after they foul (do it quickly so you don't burn yourself). Now you need to determine if the "wetness" on your plugs is oil or fuel. Most likely, it's fuel. From the sounds of things, it sounds like your car is running really rich. A lean fuel mixture will not foul plugs. I don't anything about how the Weber DGV's work so I can't help you there. But I do know that our local Z club President had them on his 240 once, and he could never get the car to run any faster than 60 mph! And it ran really rich, and shot flames out of the tailpipe! Once he switched over to SU's, never had a problems again. Find yourself a knowledgable DGV person or get a book. Then do a step by step process of elimination until the problem is solved. One other thing you might look at is your ignition system. Make sure you points are in good condition, the coil is good, and that your battery & alternator are putting out what they should. A weak spark can make fouling plugs very easy.

Yes, it hangs down by about 2-1/2". That's the down side. With a stock valance in place, you can see the bottom of the radiator and you have to be careful about not parking up close to concrete parking stops or curbs. If you have an airdam, it would hide the radiator.

I've been in the same boat before. My motto: If you don't get hurt while working, you weren't working hard enough. Works for me at least. I've had 3 stitches in my arm from rebuilding a tranny. 5 stitches in my head from dropping an exhaust manifold (don't ask). :stupid: And I have too many scars to list on my hands, arms, legs, face, chest, and they all come scrapes, pokes, welding burns, slipped wrenches, broken sockets, broken ratchets, slipped screwdrivers, etc. The unfortunate thing, I work on my cars so much that I never have enough blood left over to donate. :dead: But honestly, I'm not accident prone!

I'm currently running a 280ZX radiator ('82 to be specific, but they're all the same) in my 240Z. Only two mods were required. Only two of the mounting tabs will line up: either the top two or the bottom two. If you line up the top two, then the top of the radiator will hit the hood when it is shut. Line up the bottom two mounting holes, then drill new holes for the top two mounting tabs. Only other thing is you have to get a new lower hose for a 280Z or 280ZX. The lower hose connection on the radiator comes out straight on the ZX, unlike the 240Z where it bends upward. Thus, you need a slightly longer hose with a bend on the end. Benefit: additional cooling core (3 vs. 2) and overall larger cooling capacity. Coupled with an OEM thermostat (larger opening) my 240 now runs cooler than ever before even at sustained high speeds in the hot Texas summer heat! That enough description for you Bambi? :classic: :classic:

This is for those that might be interested in swapping out their 2-row radiator to a 3- or 4-row (if you can find one) and/or adding an electric fan to their early Z car. This should apply to all their locations, nation-wide. US only. Pick-N-Pull Manager Special's June 15-21! Valued Customer, The following are our Manager Specials for June 15th through 21st! These prices will be honored starting Tuesday at all participating locations: Radiators only $24.99! Fan Electric only $9.99! Dash Pad only $7.99! Headlight Bulb only $0.49! http://www.picknpull.com

My '73 parts car had bolts holding the intake on with studs for the exhaust. I can't say for sure what my '71 had on it as all the studs had been pulled off when I got the engine. The Parts CD/microfish shows 2 different length studs for the intake and the exhaust. I tried ordering them from my local dealer. Got them in just fine only to find out that some of them were too short. I don't remember which ones exactly, but about 1/3 of them needed to be of the longer length. Just get the long ones. Better to have a little extra length than not enough.

I always thought that for AFR (Air Fuel Ratio), you wanted to get as close to 14:1 as possible. Maybe I'm wrong, but this is what I've been shooting for. Anybody have any input regarding this? The info could help both of us...

That's EXACTLY where I'm headed next!!! But, :tapemouth don't tell anyone.... especially the Mustangs!:classic:

Barnes & Noble, Walden's Books, etc. Here in Texas we have a used book store chain called Half-Price Books. They always have something regarding autobody work. Check a place like that. Or you could stop into a auto paint supply house. If they don't have anything there, they will be able to direct you in the right direction to get one. Good luck. It's always great to see someone willing to learn a new trade and be able to do work themselves.

I also agree and say dig into this car. Granted you may find that it might be too much for you to handle and go get another body. But at least you'll have a better understanding of the problem areas with these cars and will know what to look at with the next body. And what to avoid.

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of my install. Should have. The hardest part is putting the filler neck back in the tank. As for the grommets, I couldn't find any when I did mine, so I used black eletrical tape. The thick stuff that's almost like rubber itself. Take that and wrap it around the body extension and the hose really, really tight. Do that a couple of times. Makes for a really good seal. So far, mine has been holding well for the last 2-1/2 years.

What thread are you replying to?

huh?

You should be able to find a fuel cell that will fit the space perfectly after removing the spare tire well. Plus you won't have to worry with those damned vent lines anymore, also.

HEY!! Those are the two people I was looking for earlier!!!!

This was taken from a thread posted awhile back. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1309 Go ahead and replace the hoses. And do not use heater hose. I used that initially, but still had to replace them a few years down the road. The fuel vapors will harden the heater hose and cause it to crack, causing leaks. The only 2 hoses I've ever seen that needed to be replaced are the long 1/2" hose and the 5/8" hose w/ 180 degree bend. The short 1-1/4" hose from the filler neck to the expansion tank typically is fine. (I've looked at over 10 cars in junk yards and on everyone of them this hose was fine.) The 1/2" & 5/8" hose can be bought at any NAPA store for around $1.25 per foot. Not bad, but not cheap. Make sure you get the fuel line grade hose. I bought 5' of the 5/8" and 8' of the 1/2" hose when I did mine just to be on the safe side. To make the 180 degree bend you'll need a piece if 1/2" OD steel tubing (preferrably stainless) about 6" long. (Do not use copper tubing! The fuel will degrade the copper over time and could ruin your fuel system.) You can probably find a place that sells this (plumbing shop would be a good place to start) and they'll most likely be able to bend it for you. I used a bench mounted vise. Painfull and time consuming, but it worked. Once you have the tubing bent, just slide it in the 5/8" hose and hook it all up. It's pretty easy from there. While you're at it, you might as well replace the 3/8" hose going to the hard fuel lines and to the carbs if they haven't been changed already. Good luck and don't forget to drain the gas tank! It's amazing how heavy about 8 gallons of gas feels when it's sitting on your chest! Don't ask....

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1309 FWIW, EScanlon and myself provided some info about 2-1/2 years ago on this very same topic. Granted, it took me about 5 minutes to find the thread, but I found it. Good information for those facing this problem. Seerex, the boat place was going to rip you off on the hose. I paid about $1.25 per foot for the fuel lines at NAPA, including the 5/8" dia. hose.

The consensus is right. It really is easier to pull the engine out as a whole, then take it apart. Keep in mind, now that you have the head off, you'll have a harder time pulling the block out of the car since the hangers are typically mounted on the head. Where would you mount the hoist chains? On a side note, if this is an L24 block, in my experience there is not much of a market for selling the parts. I had one that was for sale for over a year that I could not get rid of, parts or whole. There was nothing wrong with it, other than it hadn't run in awhile. I ended up giving it away to get my garage space back. I also recently sold my running '73 L24, with recorded dyno paperwork, for only $100. I had it for sale for over 6 months. L24's just don't bring much money these days.

It's been so long since I replaced u-joints in my car, I don't remeber if they had the rings or not. They look like the right ones, but I'm not 100% positive. Sorry...

You should be able to change out these u-joints just like the ones in the driveshaft. That being using a press to push the u-joints enough to get the caps out then, take the rest of the u-joint out. The caps should be a pressed fit. You might be able to use a fairly large vise, but a press will work easier and quicker. Or just take your half-shafts to a driveshaft shop and get them to do it. It shouldn't take them more than an hour or two to get all four done.