venom42

My $.02 - I looked for a solid month for a '70-'78 Z before I bought my '75. I paid $3900 for my car, and it was the cheapest I had seen one for the shape it is in. It had 88k original miles, new OEM style carpet, no rust (original owner had it undercoated, and it lived in CA most its life), new (professionally installed) CD player and speakers, working factory A/C, 4-speed manual, new wheels/tires, new floor mats, and everything worked (even the clock). Things it needed/needs - diff mount replaced, and shocks/struts. From the prices I had seen while searching, I got a damn good deal. However, this was looking in the SE region. It may be different elsewhere. So I would say go for it if everything checks out.

Would they not be the same as stock 280 rings (allowing for overbore if needed of course)?

It is very large, and is on the right, lower side of the engine (if you are looking from the front of the car). Since it is a 280, the fp is in the rear. A couple of people have told me that replaceing the clutch would end up being more expensive than replacing the whole compressor? They have both said that you need special tools (which I do not have, and neither do they) to remove and replace it, and that I would likely have to pull the compressor either way. The previous owner had it retrofitted to r134 (bah!), if that makes any difference. Since 134 is so "environmentally friendly", I was just going to crack open the valve and let the pressure of, replace it, and take it somewhere to have them pull a vaccum on the system, then charge it myself with the kits you get at autozone. I just do not know what to do with it now, nor do I have the $300-$400 to buy a new compressor.:stupid:

My car has the factory A/C on it. The A/C still cools, but the compressor has started making noise, so I have not been running it since. It is now starting to get too hot for the "windows down" method of A/C during the day. Are there any cheaper A/C compressors that will work (maybe from other cars)? I think I saw a new one from Victoria British for like $300-$400? Ouch. Any ideas?

I know this is an old thread, but thought I might have something to add. Of I remember correctly, the LSD that he installed is an "insert" style LSD consisting of two steel blocks with springs between (if I am wrong please correct me). These are different than your typical LSD's in the way that they operate. They actually use the pressure of the springs to push the plates against the gears. I installed one of these on a FWD DSM that I had and it made a WORLD of difference. Went from spinning all the way into 3rd to only spinning through 1st (both wheels instead of one). Helped tremendously with torque steer as well, and made a huge difference when applying power exiting a corner. While the inserts are typically not regarded as highly as full LSD units, they are usually an excellent upgrade for the money, as they are less expensive than the full LSD units.

There are several Skylines that make well over 1000 hp as well. That is just plain sick out of a 6 cyl engine. I can't imagine what it would be like in a 2400 lb Z.

I *THINK* the RB is an iron block and aluminum head as well, so I Would imagine it to be similar. However, these things can make a rediculous amount of power on stock internals, so there may be some extra weight there? Not to mention the extra cam and valvetrain. Prolly still bfairly close I would think though. These engines are so renowned that there is a wealth of info on the web about them. I am sure someone has the weight posted.

Body shop?

Excellent. Thank you. Would doing this decrease the value of the car in the future?

Will 240SX wheels fit then?

My car has 235's on it on 14in wheels (they were on it when I bought it). They do rub the fender well in the rear, but I was thinking it was due to my struts being fragged. I was hoping that putting new struts on would correct the problem, but from what I am getting from this discussion, I will likely still need to roll the lip. Could someone desribe this process to me?

The RB26 is reguarded as one of the best built 6's in the world, being Nissan's engine of choice for the mighty R34 Skyline GTR. Capable of very high hp on the stock bottom end, it can go toe to toe with the ever-so-popular 2JZ that came in the MKIV Supra turbo cars. I have seen them on the web for as little as $2600, but then you have to consider shipping, and the fact that you cannot check it out before you buy it. I have seen pics of a few early Z's with the RB26DETT transplant. I would post some, but I do not recall where I saw them. It would defintely be nasty.

The only time I have heard of using ATF in fuel is when you are creating a "race fuel" mixture. I have used this in the Talon before. Basically, you mix one gallon of Xylene (harware store in the paint section) with 3 gallons of premium gas, and add one capful of ATF as a buffer. Not sure what the ATF as a "buffer" does (if anyone knows, please feel free to comment), but the Xylene/premium mixture yields about 100 octane. If you use Tolulene instead of Xylene, then the ATF is not needed, but it yields only slightly lower ocatane. Aparently, Xylene is a main ingredient of Tolulene, which is a main ingredient in the gasoline that you buy at the pumps nowdays. I believe that pure Xylene has an octane rating of somewhere between 117-121 if I remember correctly. This mixture is used as a cheaper alternative to race gas, and has NO use on the street. I have used it to race the Talon, because the higher octane allows more boost without knock. Just adding it to your tank yields no power gains (same as race gas), unless you are planning on upping boost pressure, advancing timing, etc. The gains come from tuning with high octane, not from the higher octane fuel itself. Anyhow, take it for what its worth.

Aha! I was beginning to wonder if there was something screwey going on with my car (such as a previos owner installing a bogus plate or something). Good to know. Thanks.

With the Talon, I have a datalogger that tells me the timing advance, knock count, etc., but with the Z I was afraid to risk it after I read the manual (91 or better). I will KNOW when it is pinging, right? If it does, will that one tank hurt it?

I have read several places that the '75 280 came with 150hp. However, the plate under my hood says 170hp. What gives? Which is correct?

I know I am resurrecting an old thread here, but I figured it was better to reply to search results than ask a question that's already been had. Anyhow - The previous owner of my Z ('75 280) said he ran regular gas (87) and got about 22-25 mpg. I think I got like 20-21 on the first tank I put in her. Then, I read in the manual that it requires premium, so that is what I have been running ever since. However, I only get 17-18 mpg. Would I be ok to run the regular gas? My Talon HAD to have premium to not grenade the engine (turbo), but being n/a, it would seem that it would be ok??? My car has 92,000 miles on it if that makes any difference.

I really appreciate all of your help guys.

IT should not be losing much through this tube anyways correct? Could this be the result of a failing radiator cap?

I went by the dealer today, and they said that they do not show a part number until '76 models. I can see where it looks like a place for one where you guys described. I picked up a universal one from Pepgirls today, but have not tried to mount it just yet.

Would it have been in the engine compartment, or on the front side of the radiator support? Anyone happen to have a picture of theirs? Would the best bet be to go with an aftermarket one or try to find one (used or new)?

The top bolt on the passenger side plate stripped. What is the best way to go about fixing this?

I have noticed some coolant leaking from the underside of the car occasionally. Today I replaced all of the hoses and the thrmostat (180 degree), only to realize it was coming from the coolant overflow tube. What is causing this? Is there supposed to be a tank for it to collect in, like on newer cars? If so, the previous owner tossed it.

Have you tried PB Blaster? It is leaps and bounds better than WD40. What part of Georgia are you in? I live in the Acworth/Kennesaw area (northern 'burb of ATL).

I noticed one of the screws around the latch (on the door) is missing. Could that cause part of the problem?