deadflo

Can someone tell me what purpose the hand throttle served anyway?

Anybody have a link to specifics of R and R of Master and slave clutch cylinders? I found a good article on bleeding the system on the Atlantic Z car website. nice pics, easy to understand. I'd just like to get more info than is in the service manual. This is actually for my 79. I would just like a bit more clarity on how to remove the master, and maybe hook it up. I lost complete pedal pressure on the clutch , and am not seeing any leaking from the slave, so I'm assuming its the master. Should I replace both cylinders?

We have had ethanol for years here in Spokane as a mandatory winter blendto reduce CO emmissions. Thank God we just acheived "attainment" status with the EPA so this crap wont be mandated three months out of the year. I have kept long-term mileage records on all my cars for the last 15 years. The 10 percent ethanol blend they sell here results in about 15 percent lower mileage for all my vehicles. 8,6, and 4 cylinder vehicles. If it were cheaper that would be a different deal. The price we paid here was the same as normal gas. You may also be aware the Bush energy bill has a provision to mandate ethanol blends for all gas. The thinking being we have a plentiful supply with the farmers who grow corn. Good for farmers, bull $^!# for the rest of us!

I just moved out to the country . But in my old neighbrohood there were two series one 240-Z's, mine and my neighbors, a half block away. Also another guy with a 72 and five 510's about five blocks away.

I will check the fan clutch as soon as I can this weekend. How do you check it? if i recall, fan should spin by hand when car is off???? im kind of leaning to the front wheel bearings, the noise does seem to change when going diffferent directions. its a pretty subtle sound, again you have be going around 70 MPH to hear it. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Ok, here's a pretty difficult one to diagnose. I have noticed a subtle "roaring" noise of sorts when I get to around 70 MPH. It seems to decrease when you get up to around 80 or so. I just bought new tires because the old ones were about shot, but I had the noise with the previous tires as well, and thought putting new tire on the car might alleviate the sound. It seems to be coming from the front, but im really not sure. What things should I check our first? bearings/front end stuff/driveline???

It was the distributor. Replaced it, the buzzing stopped, and tach works like new. When I had the dizzy out you could spin it by hand and it made the buzzing noise.

I weighed my series one at a local waste disposal place. With three gallons of gas and no occupants it was 2235. I swear. The car has no emmissions gear (pump/galley/gizmos)

Yeah well I'm going to stay with my original 14" wheel size and the good ole slotted mag style. I think I may just get all season tread design. I'm running some Yokohama All season 215-60-14's (T speed rated)on my 280 ZX and they're not too bad. Les Schwab has some 60 profile H speed rated tires that seem to look OK. I already have a 3.9 rear with stock 4 speed in the 240-Z (turning 4000 at 70 MPH) and I think the 205-60-14's would just result in the engine winding up too much at hiway speeds.. (or even excess of hiway speeds!) I guess Ive convinced myself the H speed rating is prety important because of the stiffer sidewall, other wise I would just go with S or T.

Anyone running these tires on their cars? I ve shod my Z's with 60 series rubber for years, but its hareder to find H speed rated 14's these days. I did find these newer Yoko's in a 205-60-14 size though. They look real aggressive, maybe to much for a vintage look, but i want the best handling I can get. I did have 215 widths in the past. Do you think it will A. throw the speedo off too much or B. hurt handling with a narrower tread than ive run before?

Whats the name of the shop? Is it in Seattle?

I also have a daily driver 79 ZX. It has been my transportation as such for 16 years now.I do store it three months in the winter. It's a different car than my 240-Z for sure. But I love it dearly.

Yeah those Brooklands book series were great, I thought the 70-83 was out of print. There are some other ones, like R and T on datsun sports cars 66 to 83. The others are reprints from R and T and lots of other car mags. Titles include 280Z and ZX, 240-Z and 260-Z (for sure the best one!). I had a 71 corolla too, Good car, but definitely not a real sports car like that Fiat. Apologies to the owner of the Opel, but those cars were the butt of many jokes. Certainly not up to the level of a Z or the Fiat, in terms of sportiness.

So does the advance curve of the euro model provide any benefit? Anyone have any experience with the stock units from either MSA or VB?

Anyone running one of these? My 71 is all stock save for header and exhaust, would one of these be beneficial? I'm looking to replace my dizzy soon, I dont really have aproblem with points, although may swithc to pertronix eventually. Also, How are the stock units from MSA and VB?

I had a chance to drive my Z over to the shop i mentioned but the owner (and z expert wasnt there). However another guy there said he belive the buzzing noise to be originating from the dizzy as well.(bad bearings?) Again the tach is only bouncing when the noise occurs. Although she is ruinning OK now, I figured I'd order another distributor.You think it could go out completely soon? Whats everyones opinion on replacements? Are the rebuilt units Motorsports and VB carry ok??? Please remind me what the deal is with the alignment of the unit when you replace it that is shown incorrectly in the service manuals...

Well we can deduce from info from AZ-240z that the engines are not put into the cars in consecutive order. To recap, my car is serial number 20390, with engine number 027310. Dans car is serial number 20419 with engine number 027116. OR perhaps the cars don't go through the assembly line in the order of their own serial number.

This has been a common topic, I don't hink anyone really knows whats going on although theories center on connections at the coil, the dampening oil in the tach, or incompatability with aftermarket ignition systems. In my case it is definitely linked to some weird noise from the front of the engine.When the tach jumps around, you can hear the noise. When the noise stops, the tach is OK. I havent had time to re-eximine it. I have a mechanic in mind who has owned several Z's I will try to have him look at it in the near future.

I experienced the infamous bouncing tach issue this weekend. It occured when I was stopped at idle, with the tach needle bouncing all over the place. When in gear and driving it was minimal. I then noticed a "whirring " noise from under the hood near front of the engine. It appeared the noise occured exactly the same time as the tach bounce.I suspected it was from the dizzy, but im not sure. I pulled the cap and rotor off, didnt seee anything obviously amiss though. Note I DO Not have pertronix, just stock ignition system. Any ideas? I note some foks said they were able to get their tachs fixed for about 50 bucks. Wonder who works on such items?

How about the real classic inline six, the Jag XK? I can't imagine anything cooler looking than an earlier, polished aluminum dual cam covered, triple SU carbed XK sitting in a Z engine bay. Anyone know if this has ever been done? Way cooler than a boring OHC cast iron V8...

If I recall correctly Wick Humble talks about using some kind of coating that is used the aircraft biz in his "how to restore your datsun z book. " I dont have access to the book at the moment but i'm sure a number of you do.

If he left a cell phone in your car you may have an easy time of tracking the peice of sh##

I'm liklely to go with the pertronix when it comes time to change the points. I'm still curious why adjusting the point gap would cause a no start situation...

OK, well I managed to get her to run. When I checked the gap, and adjusted it as per the Haynes manual. I loosened one of the hold down screws on the points, then VERY SLIGHTLY adjusted the recessed adjustment screw to decrease the gap. When it wouldnt start, I went back and VERY SLIGHTLY adjusted that screw back to where it was (probably a tenth of a turn) I put the cap back on and she fired right up! What the F@#$ ? So it looked like the dwell was in the ballpark range (41). I then reset the timing, but i did notice the most i could advance it was to 5 BTD. It seems to run OK now, just wondering why it would not start when I adjusted that recessed screw?? The hanyes and chiltons seem to offer varying bits of info on the dwell adjst. do you need to actually check the gap of the points if youre just doing a 6000 mile tune up? Or just check the points with the dwell meter??

i checked my point gap today, used a remote starter so i could get the points wide open by myself. When i checked the gap with a feeler gage, i got a little spark across the gap. I beleive I still had the ignition switch "ON". Did I F. U? I tried to see if I was getting any spark after it wouldnt start by disconnecting the coil wire and trying to start it. it doesn't look like I'm getting any spark now.... :disappoin