deadflo

Cool thread. I guess you guys had better luck than I with Rebello. I had him mod an E 31 head for me on my stock L-24. Bigger exhaust valves, slightly hotter head.Also "modded" the Needles for the stock SU's. He said it would be a noticeable difference. It was, as far as mileage went! I was getting 23MPG, now about 16. I couldn't tell any performance difference at all. I was hoping for at least a few more ponies. Last time we talked he aid it's likely the cam timing isnt quite on. I guess I still need to find someone that can help me dial that in better. What do you guys think?

Dan, Good to know! I saw one thread on a vendor site that seemed to indicate they windows were different in later models, but I wasn't sure of the date! Blue, I will check with the guy on Craigslist here in Spokane! Any other input you guys may have on the old neighbors car will be appreciated still . There are some interesting parts on the "abandoned" 280. A set of Weber Triples, being the main item of interest!

Hi guys! Had an interesting day Sunday when I took the wife on a drive, essentially to "town". I have had trouble closing the passenger door on the 71 for awhile. You need to slam it pretty hard sometimes, the striker plate must need to be adjusted. Long story short, the wife slammed the door shut, and the glass in the passenger door shattered! I have Haggerty insurance so figure it should be a quick fix. I called some local glass places, no one can get NOS glass for passenger side. I need your help with a good source. But there is another issue. I have a 12/75 280Z on my property, pretty much a parts car, but it's not really mine. It has sat here for about ten months, when the neighbor was foreclosed on.I told him he could leave it here for awhile, as I am out in the country and I didnt think it would be a big deal. It doesnt run, but I'd like to pull the window out. The guy moved away but left me two forwarding numbers. I am now leaving messages for him ,asking what he wants to do with his Z. He is not returning calls, and Im not even sure if he lives around here any more.How long should I wait to hear back from him before I get the window out, or what do you guys think I should do? Has anyone worked with Haggerty on a NLA parts issue before? They have a guy who is supposed to deal with the issue, but Im still waiting for his call.

It has some obvious similarities to the Z, what about three years before the Z project began? Think some of those Prince engineers who worked on this likely had some role in the later effort?

This was ID on a friends webpage as "1963 Nissan Prince Prototype" No idea where the pic came from. OK , so year could be wrong but What is It?

I believe they changed the sender after series one, but I can only find one (later) type in parts listings and on ebay. Mine appears to be leaking oil and I want to put a new one in,and it has been reading very high lately as well. I wonder if there would any issues other than perhaps a slightly different reading on the guage, with a later sender?

So does this mean they intended to sell the Z with triples originally? I know later in 1970, there was a write up in Road and Track from Jack Yamaguchi about possibly introducing the triple Solex as an option.

Oh I just realized they show triple solex on the car in the brochure. Wonder if they intended to sell em that way in USA in 1970?

That brochure is pretty interesting. 175 HP??? Quarter mile times of 15.8??? Whats that all about?

I don't doubt that this car could have been red it was one of the original colors. I haven't heard about the cars being painted in batches according to their serial numbers, plus as you know the cars may not really be sequential in actual production, in connection with the numbers they were assigned. You can see that in Carl Becks Z car serial archive. I know that the dark BRG cars had both butterscotch and black interiors.

Like to see the interior... If you go to the Craigs Listing the pics are a lot larger. I wonder why the bumpers are so black? Dirt? The gas filler door doesn't have the chrome knob? Also would the air filter housing on such an early car have that long intake? Weren't the first one real short?

Are you sure, Z train? I know the federal mandate to use 10 percent ethanol is making it's way into most states. Have you looked at the gas pumps where you are and read the "fine print" lately?

Thanks, Tyler! Only Colville near me over here, but still 60 miles away! Maybe I'll try Idaho..

Cool to know Z Tyler! NWN=Northwest News Network??

I've had to a couple of times long ago. The FI systems are sure alot more reliable in cold start than carbs. Especially non enriched triple webers.

A new thread here regarding another report of vapor lock: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=38754

Richard, I have similar thread here regarding increased reports of vapor lock in FI cars: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=38752 It seems to me that the increased use of ethanol in gas maybe creating the problem.

KD Matt, Here in the Spokane area we did have mandated 10 percent ethanol for many years in the winter months, but I never drove this Z in the winter. You may recall Congress passing the ethanol bill about two years that mandated increasing the use of ethanol in gas sold in the US.In the last year, the gas pumps in Washington have read "this gas MAY contain a blend of up to ten percent ethanol." Apparently my car is now reacting to it. It could be something else, but I'm basing this in part on reports that other FI owners are having similar issues. I know it's definitely a heat related issue, given the little experiment I did yesterday starting the car with hood open and closed. I do plan to buy gas at some different places to see what happens. I also have the option of going over to Idaho to fill up, to see if it's any different.

Hey Bill, try starting the triples when it's below Zero out...

I'm thinking alcohol too, Powerglide. Results of my non scientific test of: run car hard, park in sun with hood closed. Try to restart 15 minutes later.Stumbled and ran crappy both times I tried that. Then run hard, park in the shade with hood open. Try restart 15 minutes later. Ran fine both times! I'd like to hook up my auxillary cooling fan(that the ZX's have on the fuel rail) to run every time I shut her off. I need to figure out how... OH and again, this car has never had this issue in 20 years. And it now appears alcohol is in all the gas in Washington state, that I can figure out..

Ztrain, yes, it dies but if I give it some gas as I crank, I can get it to "clear out" after about 20 seconds or so, then runs fine. I will look at rhe cold start injector first. The reason I disconnected it years ago, was, it was wet with gas on the TOP of the connector.So it was leaking to an extent then, but stopped when I disconnected the wire to the thermotime switch. I found that link real interesting . Tony's info was very good, but I want to see if any of WashingtonZmans ideas work. I'm driving home from work soon, I'm gonna leave the hood open after I shut her down, and then try to restart in about fifteen minutes. We'll see if that changes anything. It has done that stumbling the last two times Ive gotten home and tried to restart. It isnt really hot enough for the fuel line blower to come on, so i cant tell if that helps anything. it would nice to wire that upto a switch somehow..

Oh yeah, I will check leaking cold start injector, but it's only happening in that 20 minute window or so after it has run. I can get it to clear out after it runs bad for a few seconds,it does not RUN bad when hot, just RESTARTS rough.

Did you check out that link? Seems like more folks are encountering this all of a sudden, on cars that have never done it since new. Could be that fuel pressure issue, but Im wondering if it's related to gas with ethanol??

I have a 3.90 rear end, running 215-60-14's. Still have the original A type four speed. I run just under 4000 RPM at 70 MPH.

I've had my cold start valve disconnected for about eight years now... on the other hand, I havent checked to see if it is leaking.