deadflo

Well I called shox.com, where they then referred to a direct phone number to the manufacturer(or maybe the importer?) KW automotive. They gave me some more info on the ST springs. I was told the front springs would have slightly thinner wire and be 9 TURNS . Not coils per se, but turns. In other words the half turn legnth at either end does not count as a coil, but if you follow through to the next coil in the same place as the first half legnth , that would be one turn. (hope you can follow that). I will check later today if I get a chance. As far as any credit, I talked to one fellow who said I could document the problem with good pics, and an estimate from my mechanic as to the cost to redo, there was a CHANCE I could get some compensation. I did send those folks the link to this thread, to give them an idea that other members of our club would be interested in the results, implying that their customer service and accuracy in labeling the springs correctly would be a factor on future sales from our club members. BTW, they said if itlooks like the springs were labeled correctly, it would be best to pull em off and sendem back to the manufacurer where they would "test them to make sure they were for the correct application".

Arne, I'll check in the morning to see if I can count the coils on the fronts and rears, and see if it looks like the springs were mislabled. Did BuDavid ever do the switch on his springs? Interesting he he had mislabled springs from shox.com. Because that would be exactly what happened to me. If thats the case, it would be nice to have some sort of price break. Anyway, I also recall another thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21115 Where it seemed it was the tockico HP's to blame. If it looks like we have the springs in correctly, I am going to guess that is the case.

OK many of you may recall I've been posting questions about spring and strut choices for about a year, and finally settled on ST springs and Tockico HP's . My mechanic(who has owned 240-Z's) put em on today, and.. It's another case of the front end being over two inches taller, while the rear is OK. Note before and after pics.:stupid: We do have the springs marked as "front" on the front end. I was involved in thread regarding the ride height issues caused by newer gas pressurized shocks. But you may recall there was opinion voiced that newer spring designs, including the ST's would not have the increased ride height issue, with modern shocks. This really sucks, so I'm hoping someone has a good idea on how to lower the front. Maybe cut the fronts by one turn? I know my mechanic weirded out that these "lowering" springs fit loosely in the perches, but I assured him from our club info that was normal. If we cut a bit off, will they stay in the perches long enough to lower the car? Other option is I still have the older yellow St's or Interpart springs that were on there before. I wonder if I could switch back to those front springs, or do you think the gas struts would just bring those up two inches as well? I bought the springs and struts from the Shox.com guys. They told me to call back if i had any questions when I ordered em, I thought I'd ask you guys for some advice first.. PS, Ridewise it didnt seem to bad. My mechanic thought it was bone harsh, but he sold his 240-Z's to get into Studebakers.

What about the possibility of incorrect temp sensor readings? You mentioned you had just changed out the t-stat before it read high. Have you switched back to an OEM stat yet? I ask because I know have exactly the same issue. I recently switched out the stat in my 280-ZX when the aftermarket one caused it to run too hot. The OEM 180 degree stat solved the problem in that case. My 240-Z had been running hot on the temp scale just like yours, after my mechanic switched out one that was stuck closed with an aftermarket. So I just replaced that one with the OEM 170 degree one.But its still showing hot on the guage. I borrowed one of those laser thermometers from my mechanic.It reads around 175 at the top of the stat housing when it is warm, despite the real high reading inside the car on the guage.I assume I now need to switch out the sensor now to see if that is the culprit.

Thanks for all the infor guys! Enigma, you impress me. I posted less than one hour ago, and you've already taken your whole assembly off just to show me!!

I am going to have my mechanic put my new springs and struts on. I happened to look in the Haynes manual last night under rear suspension and for spring removal it shows taking the pins and the individual rear suspension A frames out. is this right? i didn't think you needed to go through that the spindle pin headache for the springs. I know my mechanic, who has owned a couple 240-Z's mentioned something to me in the past about being able to cut the rear springs to get them out, thus saving alot of time.Does that sound logical?

Doesnt that mixture screw on the AFM just adjust the mix at idle?

Ooops sorry. But here is another one, note its 180 degrees, BUT it is OEM and will have the larger diameter opening, I'll bet it will solve your problem. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-510-Thermostat-Kit-Nissan-NOS-NEW_W0QQitemZ260121690860QQihZ016QQcategoryZ34201QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

mbc, I looked at your site, and thought you might want to know the issue regarding your choke could be the heat riser "flap". My wifes 88 had that issue up here in washington. The part is about 60 bucks. its a little motor that opens the flap when the car is warmed up. Our honda mechanic(who also drives an 88) says its pretty common with high mileage Accords.

Hey, I know there were problems with several retailers in keeping the ST's in stock. I talked to Shox.com a month back and they didnt have any but when I called this week they did. They gave me a tracking number for the order , so they must be on their way.

I just bought a 170 degree Nissan OEM 'stat off ebay to install in the 240. I think it will keep her a bit cooler during the summer, I dont drive her much in the colder part of the eyar.

Ok well i decided on ST spring and Tockico HP's. I wanted to stick with linear springs and the HP's fit in my budget,. I ordered from Shox.com. Came to $455. I will take come pics of the before and after setupfor anyone interested in what this combo will do to a 240-Z. Currently running real old yellow springs (interpart? ST?) and unknown shocks. I will let you know what they were. I like the current setup as far as ride height and handling, except for the rear end bouncinfrom the worn shocks.:laugh: We'll see how the ride height turns out with modern gas shocks and the ST springs. It may actually be a bit higher because of ancient springs

I had the same exact issue, it was an aftermarket thermostat, the OEM solved the issue, I would try that first before the other stuff.

Hey DeesZ, looks like your block in the first pic, is a bit wet, kinda like mine is nowadays. Mine has been weeping coolant from the gasket to the outside of the block, and I have to top off the radiator every once on a while.Have you been experiencing the same thing? I recall that our old friend Bambkiller mentioned he had this issue for about three years before he replaced the gasket.

I'd like to hear what rear end ratios folks have in the cars described. My 71 has a 3.9 rear end, but a four speed, not five. I get 23-24 MPG on the road. I dont drive it in town. My 79 ZX has the 3.9 rear as well, but a five speed. It gets about 17 in town, 21-22 on the road. Both cars are mostly stock, the 240 Z has a header, but still running points.

Daryl, I see you are in Washington. is that Washington state? I am in the Spokane area.

Shox. com says can't get Suspension Techniques springs for 240-Z for 3-5 weeks. Anyone else know a good soruce to check with?

I did get two postive responses from two of the eight folks I found on his feedback that had bought heads from him. No response from the other six. But again no reponse from him to two queries I have sent him. Anyone have any ideas about the head gasket issue? are they hard to find for E-31? (they dont have em at MSA)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160102075563&rd=1,1 See my previous thread, "need opinions on switching to e-31" . I read the links about the seller, which seem a bit questionable. Note he IS now allowing folks to see his feedback. On the other hand i have emailed him some questions about the head. he has not responded. Also, MSA has no head gasket for E-31. Are they difficult to find?

Ok, so it IS likely my 1/71 car came with the E-31. Thanks for the confirmation folks, i thought that was the case. Again, i have contacted some other people who bought heads from UR Gellis on ebay and two have responded with good reports. Anyone else dealt with this seller?

There is a rebuilt E31 on ebay that strikes my fancy for a couple reasons. A) I have a 1/71 build date car, that I BELEIVE would have come with the E-31,it currently has an E-88. I am leaking coolant at the head gasket to the outside of the block. My thought is since the gasket will need replacing, I could put an original head back on. I need input on a few things. First, there is much divergence of opinion on the net as to when the e-31's were phased out. Would my car have had one? (it is the original block in the car).I beleive Carl B knows the answer to this one. There seems to be the same variety of opinions on the nature of the E-88, in terms of the valve sizes. Wading through the info I seem to discern the 72 and 73 still had the small valves, the 74 E-88 the larger valves? I'm wondering this because I have no idea if my current head has the larger or smaller valves. But I'm assuming I have the small valves currently, so going to the e-31 should not be a step down in performance. (despite the increased compression of the e-31). What downside could be lurking in using this E-31? The seller says it not been milled, so should give compression that can handle pump gas. I noticed in the MSA catalog that they listed the E-31 head gasket as not available! Would the gasket for an E-88 work? OK the other deal is the seller of the head. UR Gellis, who I Know has been mentioned on our site before, when he had his eback feedback hidden. It seems he is now letting us take a look at it and it seems ok. There are a few negative comments, but I emailed some folks he sold heads to in the past, and i have gotten a couple of good recomendations from them. Feel free to weigh in on this, and confuse me further!

Here is something new (to me) on ebay . I wonder if it is any good? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-CELICA-TA22-Datsun-510-240z-Windshield-washer_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6763QQitemZ170095145986QQrdZ1