Deus Ex

For starters, yes an RB20 is 2ltr, but adding an RB25 Crank and 4AGE Pistons takes the 20 to 2.4Ltr. In no way (excep one that had mucho $$ spent) is an L24 better than a RB20, DE or DET, the L series is too simple a motor. I think the main problem here is that the difference between USA and Australian engines is vast. The red top motor that was shipped with R31's are not the RB20s that we in AUstralia talk about, ours source from the R32. And as we did not get the 280ZX Turbo, turbing an L series is far from a cheap option, especially when i can drive in (with a stock L series) spend AUD 7k (around 5k US) and drive out with an RB25 DET, fully complianced. But after some investigation, ive found that this is going to be very pricey (the awsome reving RB20DE) vs a RB20 DET or 25DET.

Oh OK, it's just that I might have a set of L28 flattops for sale so..

Hi all, I was watching a Best Motoring video last night and saw a very nice RB20DE (NA) in an old R31. 2.4 ltr and reved very nicely. I havent been able to find much on the NA RBs, do any of you guys know of anyone who has put an NA into a Z or any idea on the specs of a DE? ALso, what is the feasibility of attaching my FJ gearbox and triple 45mm Webers? Thanks Guys, As always

Thanks heaps for that A mate of mine put a skyline dizzy in his 260 and the tach worked, maybe the early years didnt favour these new fangled parts

HAha, Thats if i can build it, i might know a guy, might hold out on the mods till you find out. Any other ideas would be appreciated though

Hey Guys, I know alot has been said and done about MSD ignition systems and tachos, but im still unclear on a couple of issues. I have read three things, 1) Get the tacho modified for around $100 2) Get a tach adapter from MSD (no idea on price) 3) Get a Dual Ballaster Resistor (about $25). Does anyone have any idea if the ballaster resistor works? as it is the cheaper option. Also does anyone know a shop who works on Tachos is the Brisbane area? Thanks guys your help is appreciated

hey guys, Well its been a while on this thread but i do have more to report, after blowing a head gasket and doing the work (Doug Ray and Jake my personal mechinics. you are a life saver) I have found that my head is indeed ported and polished. I also found that the engine has been balanced and the crank has been liniged. (what ever that is ) We gave this a good clean out and advanced the cam gear to 3. It now pulls alot LOT harder. but i wont know an output till i need to get my carbs tuned again. My compression appears to be around 8.75-9:1, which is alittle higher than standard. I guess the flat top pistons are somwhat negated by the expansive P90 chamber. I was intending to put an N42 onto it, but it needed somework, and my head has aleady been flowed, ported and the intakes mactched. ANyhow, i have noticed a significant increase in power, and am very interested to see what it will dyno next. I guess my next step from here is a cam or EFI system (read up on the stroker, the commitment is too large at this stage) and im out of space. But as you guys well know, they are a work in progress.

Hey Guys, Good to see that the page is up and running again, just have a few questions in order to better decide the next step of my engine. If anyone knows any of these dimentions it would help alot. Just to note i am running triple 45 Webers on a P90 (soon to be N42). Runner Dia @ head Runner Length Runner FLow COef (theres a hard one) Cam Lobe Separation (in cam degrees) Cam Duration @ .200" (crank degrees) Rocker Arm Ratio (intake and exhaust) Thanks guys

Try www.hybridz.org they have some guys who have tried all sorts of conversions.

No not quite, similar, but i would have to cut the middle section out, i dont want anything across the radiator and grille

I prefer tha classic gauges....isnt it always the way, purest in one sence and an huge intent to modify in another.

Just wodnering if this is possible at all? i.e RB30, RB20, RB25 crank into an L28 etc. I've heard that the bore offset is the same...but I dont know about the main bearings. Anyone tried this? Ray

Thanks alot, thats all the conformation i needed, i wasnt sure if the hands would come off, do they come straight off the spine? or does that unscrew?

Hey guys, As is the usual story the clock in my 260 doesnt work, i have a friend who has offered to give me the internal motor from his late model 260 (as i have the 240 gauges in mine....early 260 yes). Is it possible to remove the face from the clock without breaking anything? Or am i just gonna have to put the late model clock in that doesnt match.... Thanks

Yeah i did, but its not what im after, basically i am after a fibreglass front bumper, and damaged chrome one, or someone who knows the process used on the other cars. It has been done i swear!!

Hahaha you guys are a riot. noo you'll have to endure the tractor motor for a while yet. Ask gave when he can have them ready

mmm youve got a point with the no more prtection gav. What i would probably do is keep my existing bumper, but its no big thing to change them over if i wanted to (ie have the full bumper while driving around town, and put on the moded one for shows etc) I realise its not an accepted look as i myself wasnt a fan until i saw my car with the bumper off. P.s, thanks for pointing out that i used photoshop to edit it

Hey Guys, While installing my newly reparied (44014 thank god for you) i had the bumper off, and saw what my car would look like without the front bumper. I must say i thougt it looked pretty cool, and i have noticed that a few of you have pictures that show such a front. I was wondering how you would go about getting the corners of the front bumper (the corners that go to the start of the grill), im not interested in cutting up a good bumper (nor mine) so i was wondering if anyone knew of a firbre glass option? Thanks guys, below is a picture of what i am talking about. Kudos to the owner, shes a beut